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12.   EVENTS
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January/February 2013


(Print and read at your leisure – copyright - Eugenie Chopin

Unless otherwise stated)

www.ttouch.co.za - for more info on any subject!


1. Eugenie’s Letter

2. Practitioner Training - for Companion Animals –JHB & Cape Town!

i. Gordon’s Bay: 04 -09 April 2013

ii. Midrand: 12-17 March 2013

3. Horse Workshops – 19-23 March 2013 or May 18-23 in Cape Town

4. TTouch Workshops – 13-14 April 2013

5. TTouch Tips – My new shelter dog is not settling down – why – what do I do?

6. Clicker Tips – Clicking Miracles: An Unmanageable Dog

7. Puppies – General Puppy Training Tips

a. Puppy Socialization Classes In Your Area

8. Behaviour / Health

a. Behaviour: The importance of early socialisation

b. Health: Preventing Oral Disease in Your Aging Pet

9. Shanti & Friends Update: Shanti Changing at 13 years

10. Your Letters

11. Odds and Ends

a. Website of the month: www.friendsofthedog.co.za

b. Interesting Links

12. Events

a. SAINTs Animal Charity Shop

 b. Equine Clicker Clinic with Overseas Instructor Shawna Karrasch

 13. Dogs or Cats Urgently Needing Homes / Lost animals


I seem to be rather slow off the mark to wish everyone a Happy New Year for 2013, but here it is! There are many exciting things that I want to share with you.

We’ll be in Durban next week for WODAC at the Exhibition Centre. It’s been many years since we have been in KZN so Heleen and I are looking forward to connecting with old and new friends!

  • We’ll be bringing   Lifewave Patches with us. These are the amazing patches that Linda Tellington-Jones and Robyn Hood have been talking about! They are useful for both animals and humans. In order to get a sense of how effective the patches are, we’ll be using them to demonstrate how to get pain relief in just minutes (if not seconds)

  • I am hoping to give a Lifewave Patch demonstration in Cape Town on April 7th. That’s Sunday afternoon at Timour Hall in Plumstead.    Let me know if you’re interested.

  • We are introducing a new idea for people interested in our Practitioner Training Programs. We will soon be offering 3 day workshops that can be used as part of the Practitioner Qualifications. We realize that money is tight for many and this will give people a "taste" of what the training is about before committing to a full 6 days. It also means that 2 three day trainings can used in place of 1 of the 6 days sessions. Including weekends will mean that people also need less time of work. These 3 days will need to be taken with myself, Eugenie Chopin as a Tellington Ttouch Instructor.

  • We would love to start these 3-days in KZN

  • We need a venue to do this! If you know of any place, please do let us know.

  • The Practitioner Training Program will take place in Johannesburg in March and April in Cape Town. We have moved the venue this time to  Plumstead at Timour Hall so hopefully it may be closer for some of you.

  • Edie Jane Eaton will be back in Africa in May to take a group of people to the Okavango. She will be giving a 5 day Equine Clinic in Hout Bay!

  • So those who are always asking about course in Cape Town, here they are!

The thunderstorms have been quite dramatic this summer, but the good news is that the TTouch office has plenty of Thundershirts. So please give us a call on 011 -884-3156 if you’re in need. We have had some stunning feedback from the people who are using them.

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Instructor for Companion Animals






With Edie Jane Eaton!

JHB: 12-17 March 2013

Cape Town: 04 -09 April 2013

This program is designed so that you can start at any time. We love mixing beginners with more experienced students. It seems to benefit everyone. We have also been inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us.

And YES, we are coming back to the Cape! The Venue is Timour Hall belongs to Chris Huisamen. You can find out more about a map to Timour Hall at http://timourhall.com and the venue. We are really looking forward to being back in that beautiful space, place and atmosphere.

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 6 days. You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a 1 or 2 day workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of your first session, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT V class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands-on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.

DATE: JHB: 12-17 March 2013


CT: 04-09 April 2013

VENUE: JHB:  Tellington TTouch Office - 16 Gayre Drive, Sandton

CT:  Timour Hall, Plumstead

COST:  +/- R4550.00

CONTACT:  Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za

Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
10. Black dogs are easy to find in the snow

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How to Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to:  www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn without fear.

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination






TTouch Horse

Sleepy Hallow

Noordhoek Katzenellenbogen Road


TTouch – Introducing a Gentle way to build partnerships


02 March and 09 March 2013

R850 includes tea and notes


Catherine Williams

021 790 0792 082 569 8641 or quadrisenses@gmail.com


Midrand Donnybrook Stables


5-day TTEAM with Edie-Jane Eaton


19-23 March 2013


Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or 083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on 011 8843156


SARDA Center, Brommersvlei Road CONSTANTIA Western Cape


One Day Introduction to TTeam with International Instructor Edie-Jane Eaton


06 April 2013



Catherine Williams

021 790 0792 082 569 8641 or quadrisenses@gmail.com


Cape Town


Working from the ground up

A 2day TTouch Workshop


13-14 April 2013

R850 include tea & notes


Catherine Williams

021 790 0792 082 569 8641 or quadrisenses@gmail.com


Steenrots Stud HOUT BAY Western Cape


Five Day Horse Workshop in the Cape


18 May 2013


(R300 discount if paid by March 18


Catherine Williams

021 790 0792 082 569 8641 or quadrisenses@gmail.com


Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
9. Black dogs absorb heat, perfect for cuddling on a cold winter day












TTouch for Dogs (2 day workshop)


13-14 April 2013 from 9am to 5pm




Niki Elliott, Nicky Lucka


011 706 2320 (h); or 082 451 0433 (cell) 



Scotty Valadao - Canine Behaviourist - TTouch Practitioner for Companion Animals

On average, a dog will adjust to its new home within 2 -3 weeks and willthen feel more settled and secure but this is not always the case. I have come across many rescue dogs that just don’t seem to be able to settle in the new environment and the new owner is at a loss to know why.

The most common type of behaviour I have observed is the dog that is aloof, not interested in its new people, wants to spend time alone and seems to make no effort at all to fit in. While all the family will be in the lounge watching tv, this particular dog will be in a bedroom, outside etc, even having been with the family for a long period of time. As we can’t read dogs minds, it is difficult to determine exactly what causes this to happen, but from the backgrounds I have been able to obtain, this seems to occur more in dogs that appeared to have a strong bond with their previous families, have perhaps lost a beloved owner due to illness or death and the dog may even be waiting for its previous owner to appear and take it home.

In some cases, it has been dogs that have spent a long period of time in shelters before being adopted. Many of these shelters have very high noise level and are busy places with people walking to and from, buckets and food bins being banged, hose pipes washing out the run, dogs barking and whining, and dogs that are not always suited to being together are placed either together, or in a run next to one another. All these factors can impact on a dog and cause high levels of stress and even depression.

Other types of dog that often fall into the ‘battling to settle category’ when being re-homed, are dogs that were bottle fed as pups or taken away from their mother and siblings before 8 weeks of age. Of course, unless you have a background confirming same, this cannot be determined.

Perhaps the dog just views the new owner as one of the many that have walked past its run in the past and one day they too will simply disappear. We really don’t know why, but what I do know is that we can help these dogs to feel more secure and start to accept the new family more. Here are some of the things to try and consider:-

  • Don’t force yourself on the dog. Rather have short periods of positive interaction with the dog and in between, leave it alone.

  • Don’t ‘pander’ to the dog. We as humans like to ‘fix’ things and the more you try to comfort the dog, there is the possibility that the dog will become more withdrawn. To a dog, a natural leader is somebody that is calm, is in control, looks after its pack etc, and not somebody who is constantly trying to comfort and interact with it. Taking the position of being in charge of the human/canine pack structure will help the dog to feel more secure.

  • Seek veterinary advice by way of speaking to your vet about putting the dog in a Pheromone Collar for at least a month. The Pheromone Collar works on the basis that it contains synthetic pheromones that mimic the pheromones that a bitch releases at birth. These serve to calm, reassure the pup and assist with bonding. A dog recognizes these throughout it life.

  • On the alternative side, Dr. Anuska Viljoen, who does many of our articles on alternative Therapies suggests the following :-

"Accepting a new animal into the home and adapting to the change that has to take place can often be fraught with fear, anger, resentment, anxiety amongst other emotions and difficulty.

I find a combination of Bach Flower Essences invaluable in my clinic. My favourites are: -

  • Walnut:  adaptation to change of place, environment and routine, and helps with toilet training, and breaks links with past

  • Honeysuckle – homesickness and difficulty adjusting to new environment circumstances

  • Beech - restores tolerance and flexibility and helps with change of routine, change of hierarchy and animal dynamics.

  • Put 15 drops of each of the above into a small brown bottle and then put in 5 drops of the mixture into each drinking water vessel daily – also safe for cats.

  •  Added to this trio I may choose any of the following essences depending on the indications below:

  •  Mimulus – fear of known things, nervous restless, timidity

  • Cerato – for lack confidence, self-assurance with constant seeking of approval and helps to restore hierarchical balance

  • Aspen - fear of unknown, anxiety, terror, fear urination, edgy jumpy, timid. Especially for animals that have been harmed or abused or have had emotional trauma.

  • Larch – for a broken down will, a lack of confidence and low immunity, or easily intimidated and traumatised animals.

  • Don’t forget good old Rescue Remedy, which most people have around. This may be all that is needed on less sensitive individuals, for a day or 2 while the family is adjusting.

  • One tablet morning and night should be fine generally. It can be given more frequently every few hours if needed though. If using drops, please dilute in water as it is alcohol based, especially in small dogs or cats and the elderly. I have also used drops on the top of the head, rubbing it in, if difficult to dose patients. 1 drop at a time only. "

(Note: Dr. Viljoen offers email, fax and phone consults and can be contacted at: admin@mandalahealth.co.za : Phone : 044 343 1730 Fax : 044 343 2714)

Try to determine what the dog really likes. It could be a game of ball, pullies with a rope, a soft toy being thrown. Dont throw the ball from one end of the garden to the other initially, this does not always work – rather bounce the ball up and down in front of the dog, then toss a few inches away, and as the dog starts to get interested, then slowly build up the distance – the same with the pull rope and soft toy. Have frequent, short games with the dog in this manner.

If the dog is not toy driven, but instead prefers food, then supply plenty of appealing chew toys and large sized bones such as the head of a Femur from the butcher. Chop and change these frequently to provide variety and stimulation.

When the dog seems more relaxed and is enjoying the bone/chew toy, instead of leaving him alone to enjoy it, place a special cushion for him in the lounge or kitchen and place the bone on this. Do this for short intervals of time and make sure that the area the dog is in is not too rowdy and no other dogs to compete for the bone. This helps to slowly build up the dogs association that being with people is a good thing. At the same time, you can tell the dog from time to time ‘good dog, clever dog’, further building up the positive association.

A lovely ‘scent/smell’ filled walk even just outside the property can work wonders. Firstly, ensure that the dog cannot get out of walking equipment used and allow the dog to sniff and smell to its heart’s content. In humans, it has been shown that exercise has an effect on our serotonin levels (the happy hormone) and I have seen the same thing happen with dogs. A dog’s sense of smell is about 45 stronger than a humans, and this is approximately over two millions more scent cells than we humans have. A dog ‘needs’ to sniff and smell to relax and stimulate itself and I have seen many dogs where they just could not appear to cope, appear instantly happier after a short sniff around, outside the property.

If the dog is food driven (and many of them are due to being in a shelter), consider some simple Clicker exercises where the dog can be stimulated and taught some basic skills. This will serve to stimulate the dog and build a bond. We have a basic on line clicker course you can even try at home yourself. http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/about-clicker-training-on-line-course-by-mary-woodward.html

Another thing you can do where food is involved, is instead of feeding the dog out of the bowl twice a day, start to feed portions of food by hand, simply calling the dog to you and awarding a few pieces of kibble at a time. Don’t use the whole of the dogs meal initially, start with a handful and you can gradually build it up. This further associates you with ‘good things’ and will help to build up the bond.

TTouch. I have been involved in this wonderful modality for years now and am still blown away by the changes that can occur when it is used with fear behaviour and dogs like this (mind you I have never yet come across a situation where it does not help!). The ideal situation would be to have somebody come in and teach you how to do the TTouch, or even attend a workshop, but even the two basic TTouches below can impact on the dog. Here is a link to how TTouch impact on the dogs nervous systems for those of you that want to learn more http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/the-sensory-side-of-ttouch.html

Noah’s March : Starting at the head area, slowly and with a pressure much like you would use to apply face cream (if any men reading this, ask the lady in your life to show you the pressure!), stroke the dog all around the head and neck area, paying a lot of attention to the mouth area, both inside and out. The inside of the mouth is connected to the Limbic section of the brain which influences our emotions and is the seat of all learning. Do a lot of stroking on top of the muzzle, over the top of the head and between the ears as well. This area contains many acupressure points which help to calm a dog down. Continue with long strokes down the back, on the sides and the tummy area, down the legs, as in the diagram below. What many of us don’t realize is that just by doing these simple strokes, you are working on all the meridians and acupressure points and helping your dog in a profound manner.

If you have a dog that is sensitive in any given area, don’t ignore these areas, stroke next to them even softer and occasionally give a ‘mistaken’, very soft and light stroke over the sensitive area using the back of your hand rather than the palm (this is much less invasive). This way we are slowly desensitizing the dog to being touched in this area.

 Don’t do too much too quickly. You may find that the dog will tolerate 2 or 3 strokes and then walk away – leave it! The dog will soon come back or you can try later, and do a bit more. Very often with dogs that are stressed, less is more!

 How To:  Follow the contours of the body with your hands held flat covering all areas of the body and starting from the head towards the tail and don’t forget to include the legs and paws.

Ear TTouch:   Is one of the most important things you can do for your pet. Even a few minutes working on the ears can be beneficial. The ears (and base) contain over 200 acupressure points one of which will help to prevent a pet or human from going into shock. Also helpful for relaxation, stress, digestion, fatigue, circulation, car sickness.

How To:  This can be done in several ways. First, gently stroke from the base of the ear to the tip. Supporting the head with one hand hold your thumb on the outside and bent fingers on the underside and stroke outwards towards and over the tip of the ear.

Copyright – written by Scotty Valadao a Canine Behaviourist - TTouch Practitioner and thank you Scotty for the article from Friendsofthedog.co.za website


Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
8. Black dogs make you appear thinner …

By KPCT on 11/01/2002

From Sue Ailsby:

There’s a certain kind of dog-owning household that produces, entirely out of kindness and good intentions, an almost unmanageable dog. This dog doesn’t just jump up on people, but careens into them, grabs and tears at their clothes, knocks over furniture and small children, steals, digs, barks, and carries on incessantly. The family have almost always had the dog since puppyhood: sometimes it is two or three years old before they begin looking for help.

The owners love the dog, even though it is driving them crazy. They buy toys for it. They fence the yard. They give up visitors. They spend a lot of money on the vet. They think this is what having a dog entails. Often these owners are very intelligent and well-educated; perhaps they have little experience with pets, but they may have Ph.D.s and they have lots of arguments in favour of the dog. After all, it is housebroken. It doesn’t bite. They won’t hear a word against it, in fact. And they put up with all the overboard behaviour with incredible patience: with, in fact, total passivity.

I suspect the passivity is, in fact, really the source of the problem. No way are these civilized people going to take old-fashioned training advice and scold their dog, or hit it, or choke it, or punish its off-the-wall behaviour. But they really don’t know what they should be getting from the dog, or what to do, so they placate the dog, distract it, explain away its behaviour and, often do nothing. Meanwhile, the dog is in limbo. The dog can’t find out anything to do that works. So it has learned to try anything, all the time. And, inadvertently, sometimes its escalating efforts to get action pay off. It does get to go outside, or to come in. It does get a new toy to destroy. This reinforces the frantic activity intermittently, which makes the behaviour even more intense. What the dog does not get, meanwhile, is meaningful communication, often not even eye contact, from its people.

Behaviourist Polly Hanson gave an interesting paper at the Association for Behaviour Analysis annual meeting in 1994 on just such a couple—a psychoanalyst and his wife, who by inadvertent reinforcement and studious justifications, had developed self-injurious behaviour in their dog (a lick granuloma, or never-healing wound, on the paw).

Recently Sue Ailsby, a Canadian clicker trainer, posted a dramatic account on the Clickerlist of a dog and a family in just such a predicament, which I think you will enjoy, and which she has kindly permitted me to share with you. I have added explanatory information {in brackets} where I thought it might be needed for clarification to newcomers:

"I had a six month old golden retriever bitch this afternoon. Nice mom and three kids, all at wit’s end. The golden had "lots of problems"—her mother nearly died giving birth, the pup was bottle-fed, then the breeder got sick, then after the owners got her, she was sick for two months, hadda, hadda, hadda....The pup arrived on my face. She wiggled and clawed and mouthed. She jumped on Song {Sue’s giant Schnauzer}. She jumped on the kids. She jumped on Mom. She didn’t stop. She was AWFUL. I couldn’t help it, I said, ’You’ve been LIVING with THIS for four months?’ She had NO attention span. If wiggling/clawing/ mouthing/jumping didn’t get her what she wanted immediately, she was off to try it on someone else. Talk about ZERO social skills.

I tried just holding a piece of hot dog concealed in my hand, but she "attacked it" until she lost interest, and then she was GONE. I had a hard time pairing the click and the treat because her eyeballs never focused in one spot long enough to see the treat fall, and she couldn’t take it out of my hand because by then she was in my face again.

Song finally gave her a correction for climbing on HER, {i.e., the older dog growled} which she took extremely well (!), got off, then tried all kinds of things at a decent distance to get Song to play with her, including snapping in the air which freaked out Mom and the kids even worse.

Since she took the correction from Song so well, I gave her the same one when she clawed my eyeballs the next time, which allowed her to stand still long enough to notice that I’d clicked and saw a treat I had tossed for her hitting the ground.

I spent a long time clicking her for coming back into the circle, for staying on the floor, for sitting (she started to offer sits), for making eye contact, for getting off Song again, etc., and she gradually started to settle down.

Finally, I was able to go back to the food-in-hand self-control "trick." {You hold the food in the closed fist until the animal gives up trying to get it, and sits back politely. THEN you click, and open your fist and give the treat. KP} She licked-licked-licked-mouthed-bit then finally started to lose interest: Click/treat. By this time, she had enough attention span and was calm enough that she noticed what had happened. We did it again. And again. And again. She understood.

Then I thought these people probably desperately needed a real trick, so I started on targeting my hand {shaping the behaviour of touching the nose to the trainer’s hand, and then following the moving hand} to a chorus of ’She won’t do that,’ and ’She’d have to be smart to learn that!’ I said not to worry, I’d take care of getting her to touch my hand, but THEY had to watch carefully and tell me when she understood that there was NO food in the target hand: that she had to touch it, in order to get the food from the other hand. Uh huh. Yeah. Right. Sure.

Well, I started. I suckered her into touching my hand. Click and treat from the other hand. And again. And again. And again. And again. ’See, she won’t learn this!’ And again. And again. And again. Suddenly, she let out a yowl that sounded a dying cat. She looked at me full in the face for maybe five seconds, then screamed again. Then very tentatively, she reached her nose out and touched my hand—click/treat.

She didn’t take the treat. She looked at my face again, then she EXPLODED. She spun in circles, she dropped her butt to the floor, she ran around the room six times. She crashed into things. And half the time, she was making this awful yowling noise. Suddenly she landed in a heap, sitting directly in front of me, and started BANGING my hand with her nose and looking in my face waiting for the Click, CLICK!, CLICK! TREATS!! I started to cry. Mom started to cry. The kids started to cry. My God, it was like The Miracle Worker. Then she started to learn "down", and the kids and everybody did round-the-room recalls {i.e. calling the dog from one person to another, with each person c/t the dog for coming} and then they did loose-leash {teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash, by clicking}—it lasted 2.5 hours, it was an ORGY of learning. I’ve got goose bumps. What a great day!"

A note from Karen Pryor:

Our Sunshine Books teaching video, Clicker Magic

, shows examples of some of the clicker training methods. Sue mentions here, such as the sit and down, round-robin recalls, and loose-leash walking, as well as a similar, though by no means so dramatic, use of the clicker to communicate with an off-the-wall pet.

Thanks to Karen Pryor and www.clickertraining.com - Go to this website for many more interesting articles.


Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
7. Black dogs excel at night time games of hide and seek

Lotte Griffiths- Accredited Animal Behaviourist(Canine) ABC of SA

Do not bore your puppy with endless, repetitive training sessions. Keep sessions short and most of all fun!

You should, ideally, train around 3 times daily … about 5 minutes per session is quite sufficient at this stage.

 Build the training into your daily routine. You can even incorporate some of the training sessions into your daily walks.

 Have your puppy ‘work-to-earn’ every treat you give him for example by sitting nicely.

 Rewards are not restricted to food, praise, attention or play only. In fact, there are many types of rewards and it is worth bearing in mind that a reward is whatever your puppy wants at any given moment … even being allowed to go outside or come inside, etc. may be rewarding if that is what your puppy wants. What is more, rewards are relative; what you like may not be what your puppy likes and, in this case, it is your puppy that gets to decide what is rewarding for him!

Be consistent

With the signals you give to your puppy … do not change your signals as-and-whenever you feel like it and do not use the same signal for two different behaviours/responses. It is difficult enough for your puppy to learn a new ‘language’ as it is, so don’t use the same signals for different behaviours/responses. For example, ‘off’ means "get off the furniture" or personor whatever else your puppy might be on, while ‘down’ means "lie down flat on the ground" and ‘come’, means come and sit right in front of me

, it does not mean follow me, etc.

With what you allow or do not allow your puppy to do. Whatever he or she learns at this stage will be very difficult to ‘unlearn’ later … for example if you allow your puppy to jump-up at you now, you may find it very difficult to teach him not to jump-up when he’s a grown dog weighing in at, say, 50kg. Conflicting signals can cause a number of behavioural problems and have even been implicated with conditions such (for example)ADHD (attention deficit hyperactivity disorder) in some children and dogs (Prof. A Amsel, 1962)! It is therefore essential that the entire family agree on what you will and what you will not allow your puppy to do and that you all stick to the agreed rules at all times.

 Become aware of how you use your body: Puppies learn to read our subtle body movements long before they learn any of the acoustic (verbal) signals associated with a behaviour or action. In fact, your puppy automatically assumes that every change in your posture and/or facial expression has a meaning and even the smallest change in your own posture or facial expression can result in enormous changes in your puppy’s behaviour … this, by the way, is how your puppy knows when you are going out and whether or not she is coming with you, etc., before you have said a word!.

Use precise timing when you reward or reprimand your puppy: Ifyou praise, reward or reprimand even 2 seconds after your puppy has done something it is too late because your puppy will not be able to associate the reward/reprimand with whatever it was he did and you will in fact be rewarding/reprimanding another often totally unrelated behaviour i.e. whatever your puppy is doing exactly when you reward/reprimand.

Use of lures  Whenever you want your puppy to move or assume a particular position, use your lure rather than pulling on the leash and/or pushing him or her into position.

Use the lure slowly, precisely and consistently to guide your puppy, remembering that, at this age, your puppy’s eyes have not developed fully and if you move the lure too fast he’ll not be able to keep track of it.

To avoid confusing your puppy it is often a good idea for you to first practice the movements required of you without your puppy, so that you’ll be confident that you know exactly how to do your part of the practice.

Train for success: do not make the exercises too hard for your puppy and remember that, at this age, his ability to concentrate is still relatively very poor.

Finally: Puppies do not feel guilt and neither do they associate behaviours they did

EARLIER with corrections happening NOW … therefore if you do have to interrupt inappropriate behaviour, please make sure you do so while he is doing whatever it is you do not want him to do and not when he is doing something else – otherwise he will associated the punishment with whatever he happens to be doing at the exact moment when you punish him.

Enjoy your training … and remember to never train if you are tired or angry and to always finish all training sessions on a positive note.

Article written by Lotte Griffiths- Accredited Animal Behaviourist (Canine) ABC of SA. Thank you Lotte that we could use the article.

Article from Friends of the Dog for letting us use the article. www.friendsofthedog.co.za

Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

  • Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove: Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za

  • Riverclub Vet in Parkmore on Saturday mornings with Puppy 1 and Puppy 2 classes. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com

  • Bryanston on Wednesday evening, Thursday morning and Saturday afternoons for Puppy 1, 2 and Advanced Open classes. Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com

  • Gordon’s Bay: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

  • Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, contact Ilze van der Walt: zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

  • Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

  • Oaklands, JHB: Puppy Socializing Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

  • Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

  • Cape West Coast - Langebaan, Puppy 1 Classes. Adult classes. Private Sessions on request. Wendy Wilson – overthemoon@iafrica.com 083 336 1761.

Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
6. Black dogs never look dirty

Dog Star Daily® | Wed, 03/28/2007

Socialization is the process of becoming familiar with all kinds of animals, people, places, and things; as well as learning how to behave in society. All puppies need socialization regardless of breed, type, or temperament. Please do not take this for granted, regardless of your breed description. Even dogs from breeds that have a very good reputation for loving people will need to be thoroughly socialized as puppies, to make sure that they have lots of great experiences being around all kinds of different people. And more importantly, breeds that are known to be less social (often described as aloof) must be socialized to grow up to love to be around people in order to be good canine citizens (and not end up in news headlines).

It makes sense that if a pup grows up meeting lots of people and going to lots of different places, and always having fun when it happens, he’ll grow into a confident, secure, adult dog who loves to meet people, visit places, and is comfortable in all situations.

If a puppy is shielded from new experiences and people though, he’ll likely grow up to be timid and possibly frightened of new things.

Also, an under-socialized dog is more likely to react defensively around new people and in new situations and this is potentially dangerous.

it is important to note that most bites occur because a dog is fearful and unsure, not because he is "dominant" or "protective".

A socialized dog with many good experiences under his belt is a confident dog , and a confident dog is always impressive and solid in character.

So it’s up to you to provide all kinds of new friends and experiences for your puppy. Luckily for you, this is lots of fun – cute infants of all species bring out the goodwill in everyone, and you’ll find that people will line up to help you socialize your puppy!

For a list of socialization exercises please see the homework section of Dr. Ian Dunbar’s book AFTER You Get Your Puppy

With Kind Permission from Dr. Ian Dunbar and Dog Star Daily

For more great articles on www.dogstardaily.com


HEALTH: Preventing Oral Disease in Your Aging Pet

By Dr. Becker

According to Dr. Brooke Niemiec, diplomate of the American Veterinary Dental College and a fellow of the Academy of Veterinary Dentistry, oral/dental disease is the number one medical problem among pets today, with over 70 percent of dogs and cats suffering some form of periodontal disease by the age of two.

This epidemic of oral disease in pets is because most dogs and cats don’t receive regular home and/or professional dental care, and they don’t show signs of discomfort or pain until oral disease is pronounced.

Obviously, mouth problems are not something to be taken lightly by veterinarians or pet owners. Left untreated, oral disease can significantly impact both the quality and quantity of your pet’s life.

Older Pets Have Higher Risk of Painful Mouth Conditions

Unfortunately, the risk of painful mouth conditions – in particular, gum disease, tooth resorption and oral cancer – is dramatically increased for older dogs and cats. This means that for your senior or geriatric pet, proper dental care is critically important.

Daily homecare and as-needed professional cleanings by your veterinarian are the best way to keep your pet’s mouth healthy and disease-free. They are also important for pets with chronic conditions such as diabetes, heart disease and kidney failure.

Veterinary dental cleanings do, of course, require general anesthesia. Nonprofessional dental scaling (NPDS), also known as anesthesia-free dentistry, isn’t a substitute. A truly thorough oral exam and cleaning can’t be accomplished on a pet who is awake. It’s dangerous to use sharp instruments in the mouth of a conscious animal, and needless to say, the procedure is very stressful for the pet.

Anesthesia and Older Pets

While many pet parents, especially those with an older dog or cat, are very anxious about anesthesia, it is actually safe when performed appropriately and at current standards.

Many pet owners believe their dog or cat is simply too old for anesthesia – this is a very common misconception among not only pet parents, but also many veterinarians. Age itself is not a disease, so if your pet is otherwise healthy, his age won’t increase his risk of anesthetic complications.

The reason dogs and cats past a certain age are approached more cautiously for anesthesia is because older pets are more likely to have a systemic illness. That’s why additional tests are run on older dogs and cats prior to scheduling procedures requiring anesthesia. These tests usually include a complete blood panel, urinalysis, and chest x-rays and a BNP test which checks for some types of heart disease.

If your pet’s test results show no problems with her general health, there is no increased risk for anesthesia. And even if there are some borderline numbers in an animal’s test results, we must weigh the benefits of creating and maintaining good oral health against the potential risks associated with anesthesia.

A well-trained, skilled and experienced veterinary staff, following the most current standards of practice, can safely anesthetize senior and geriatric pets, as well as pets with significant systemic disease. By using the latest anesthetic monitoring equipment, pets can benefit from the same diagnostics as people undergoing anesthesia. Make sure to check with your vet about how anesthetic monitoring is performed during your pet’s procedure and recovery period.

Tips for Keeping Your Dog’s or Cat’s Mouth Clean and Healthy

Ideally, you’ll be able to avoid anesthesia for your pet as much as possible by performing home dental care throughout his life. According to Dr. Niemiec, plaque forms on your dog’s or cat’s teeth within 24 hours, which is why daily brushing is highly recommended. For help getting started brushing your cat’s teeth, view my instructional video. A video for dog owners can be found here.

Other tips for keeping your pet’s mouth healthy:

Feed a species appropriate, preferably raw diet. Giving your dog or cat the food her body was designed to eat sets the stage for vibrant good health. When your pet gnaws on raw meat, in particular, it acts as a kind of natural toothbrush. This is especially important for kitties, since they don’t enjoy chew bones like their canine counterparts do. Raw fed animals have substantially less dental disease than their dry fed counterparts, but they can still develop problems in their mouth. Unfortunately, feeding great food alone is not always enough to prevent dental disease for the life of your raw fed pet.

Offer recreational, raw bones. Offering your pet raw knuckle bones to gnaw on can help remove tartar the old fashioned way -- by grinding it off through mechanical chewing. There are some rules to offering raw bones (not for pets with pancreatitis, diseases of the mouth, weak or fractured teeth, resource guarders, "gulpers," etc.) so ask your holistic vet if raw bones would be a good "toothbrush" for your dog. I recommend offering a raw bone about the same size as your pet’s head to prevent tooth fractures.

If your dog cannot or should not chew recreational raw bones, I recommend you offer a fully digestible, high quality dental dog chew like Mercola Healthy Pets Dog Dental Bones. If your dog is getting up in years or has sensitive teeth, consider the Mercola Gentle Dental Bone to help control plaque and tartar. The effect is similar to chewing raw bones, but safer for powerful chewers or dogs that have had restorative dental work done, and can’t chew raw bones.

Perform routine mouth inspections. Your pet should allow you to open his mouth, look inside, and feel around for loose teeth or unusual lumps or bumps on the tongue, under the tongue, along the gum line and on the roof of his mouth. After you do this a few times, you’ll become sensitive to any changes that might occur from one inspection to the next. You should also make note of any differences in the smell of your pet’s breath that aren’t diet-related.

Arrange for regular oral exams performed by your veterinarian. He or she will alert you to any existing or potential problems in your pet’s mouth, and recommend professional teeth cleaning under anesthesia, if necessary. Obviously, preventing professional intervention is the goal, so be proactive in caring for your pet’s mouth.

HEALTHY PETS DISCLAIMER: This information is for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace the advice of your own veterinarian or doctor. Dr. Karen Becker cannot answer specific questions about your pet’s medical issues or make medical recommendations for your pet without first establishing a veterinarian-client-patient relationship. Your pet’s medical protocol should be given by your holistic veterinarian.


Oral Disease Isn’t Just About Your Pet’s Mouth

Studies have linked periodontal disease in both humans and pets to systemic diseases of the kidneys and liver, heart disease, lung disease, diabetes complications, problems during pregnancy, and even cancer.

These serious health concerns develop or are made worse by the constant presence of oral bacteria flushing into the bloodstream through inflamed or bleeding gum tissue. The good news is that many of these conditions improve once the dental disease is resolved and good oral hygiene is maintained.

In addition to systemic diseases, infections in the mouth and gums often create other problems including tooth root abscesses, jaw fractures, nasal infection, eye loss and oral cancer.

There are also a number of other painful conditions of the mouth including cavities, broken teeth, orthodontic disease, and in cats, tooth resorption, an extremely painful condition in which the kitty’s immune system attacks its own teeth.

Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
3. Black is a combination of any colour in the spectrum, so you actually have a dog that is blue, green red, etc.

Shanti is definitely making some mental and emotional adjustments as she ages. I suppose one of the first is how interesting it is how much she is enjoying TTouches and touching in general these days. For those of you who have been on our mailing list for years, you’ll remember that I used to be lucky to give her a couple of circles in passing! With her super sensitive body, she just wasn’t that interested in standing still for touches.

This weekend I actually had a first: Shanti gave my hand a nudge for more touches! Now most of you will say, but my dog does that all the time… However in all of Shanti’s "almost" 13 years, she has NEVER done this. Wow, what a moment it was! Shanti has finally truly started liking being touched. Is it age? Something changing in the body? Who knows but it’s certainly interesting to watch.

It’s also been a summer of super-duper Thunder Storms. And Shanti has been pretty calm through most of them. I won’t say she ignores them. She still wants to be wherever I am, so it’s either under my desk or with me in the Singing Studio. But the pacing, panting and whining are very rare. She seems to be handling them better and better. In the meantime of course Harley is oblivious to them!

So as my eldest gets closer to her 13th Birthday, she does seem to be settling down a bit. It didn’t stop her however, this afternoon from "fishing" a lemon out of the pool. She’s one of those clever clicker trained dogs who knows how to problem solve! I.e. Harley saw this "ball looking thing" floating in the water and got quite excited. Shanti also wanted the lemon and proceeded to pull water towards herself with her paw. (It was in the deep end) Sure enough the water started to move and of course…… Harley snatched the lemon and was off!

Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
2. Black dog hair is invisible when stuck to you good black wool coat

I hope that our experiences with TTouch for Parkinson’s can make a difference in someone else’s life as well. Below are some detailed notes on what we tried, what worked and what didn’t.

D’s symptoms include involuntary movement of the head and upper body/shoulders. These attacks last about 30 minutes and come on approximately an hour after he takes dopamine. In consciously trying to control these exaggerated movements, the neck muscles are strained and this in turn causes terribly painful spasms in the neck and shoulders. He regularly had to go for physio treatments. Initially I tried a sensei wrap for a few days for about 20 minutes every morning when the jerking movements were really bad. I decided to use this wrap because his posture is very "head forward". However, I could not see any reduction in the movements, and he also did not report any significant improvement. We then tried a 2" turtleneck wrap simultaneously with 3" shrug wrap. The movements stopped virtually immediately and we kept the wraps on for about 30 minutes. D said that there was a warm, glowing feeling in the neck where the spasms usually are and an incredible lightness in his shoulders. So this is now the regular treatment, the jerking still stops as soon as I put the wraps on, and he hasn’t needed to see a physio for neck spasms since.

We went to Norway for three weeks in November and forgot to take the wraps along. The muscle spasms started up on the second day without wraps. I tried several pharmacies, but none had suitable bandages. I did Touches on the neck and shoulders, about 3 pressures and with various positions with the back of my hands. It helped sufficiently that D could live without pain medication for most of the trip, but not as spectacularly as the wraps.

D also has sciatica due to his irregular gait (almost stumbling movements). I tried the wrap described on page 29 of "All wrapped up for you" and it brought IMMEDIATE and TOTAL relief. It was the most amazing thing!! I also tried the sumo wrap and the diagonal wrap, but they did not work as well as the page 29 wrap. This wrap brought relief as long as it was on, but the pain returned soon after and he is now receiving physio treatment for his hips. As soon as the current inflammation has cleared, we will use the page 29 wrap regularly to improve balance and gait and hopefully prevent this from happening again.

And then, the absolute astounding results on the swollen legs and feet! The blood pressure medication caused his feet to swell to such an extent that he could not get his shoes on. The diuretics the doctor prescribed interacted negatively with the Parkinson’s medication, so he had to stop taking it. Well, I don’t really know what I’m doing or why I’m doing it, so I just tried various things and got feedback from D. I was also quite intrigued by the idea of just treating one side of the body and the other side will be affected as well (something Robyn mentioned in the course). So I only worked on his right leg as an experiment. The program we settled on was Noah’s March, raccoon TTouches on the lower leg and foot, a few abalones, then some python lifts, coiled pythons, octopuses and Noah’s march again. I then put a simple criss-cross wrap on his lower leg – starting at the back of the knee, cross front, cross back, cross front on the ankle, under the foot and back - and left it on for about 20 minutes. D said that this caused a intense "buzzing" feeling in his leg, the leg felt a lot lighter than the other one and when he got up and walked, he actually walked a lot better – not shuffling anymore. After a week of this treatment once a day in the evenings, I could see the difference – the swelling in both legs were down significantly, even though I only worked on the one leg. We kept this up for three weeks until his legs and feet looked normal again. His legs have not swollen again (it is now four months later).

I have to admit that I am very left-brained, logical, analytical and scientific and it is very strange for me to get such spectacular results with something I neither understand nor know enough about it to really know what I’m doing. But I work mindfully and with a positive attitude, I visually good outcomes, and it seems to work

Thank you for making your experiences, insights and research available to us. On a personal level, it has already made a huge difference in our lives, the lives of my beloved rescue doggies and the shelter animals I work with. I really want to learn more! Best regards

Happy New Year everyone. Just spent an amazing 5 days on a farm in the Cedarberg and wanted to share this story. The people that manage the farm were talking about one of their chickens that had developed a growth in between it’s toes and was battling to walk. It had had it for about three months. I asked if I could see the chicken and would they mind if I did some TTouch on it to help relieve some of the pain. Of course they had no idea what TTouch was so I quickly filled them in. Anyway, I didn’t really have a clue but remembered Linda working on a parrot at our Cape Town training and thought "what the hell". I worked with his wings doing slides and I also did small circles around where I thought his ears would be :) and it was amazing to watch how the chicken kind of relaxed. I showed them a couple of touches and told them when they had a chance to do them. Well, I was rewarded the next morning to be told that the chicken had laid an egg and it hadn’t done so for over three months. I thought that was really cool.

From Andrea Bowen, currently busy with the Practitioner Training for Companion Animals.


Top Ten Reasons to adopt a black dog…
NR 1. A black dog is just as loving, loyal, and trustworthy as a white, brown or yellow dog!

Website of the Month:  Friends of the Dog website is two years old!!


Congratulations and hope there will be many more. Have a look at the many very useful and great articles from the site.

b. Interesting Links

http://www.care2.com/causes/cute-animal-video-of-the-day-the-scottie-pinwheel.html . Scottie-pinwheel. Too cute!!

http://www.care2.com/causes/cute-animal-video-of-the-day-the-scottie-pinwheel.html.  . Cutest animal videos of the day

http://www.care2.com/causes/causes/7-adorable-animal-rescue-videos.html.  7 adorable animal rescues

http://www.godfruits.com/share-this-kitten-and-pitbull-video-2989.php  Kitten and pitbull video – very cute!

12.   EVENTS

Barking Mad & CLAW Book sales! 23 Feb & 2 Mar 2013

Northriding Square, Bellairs Dr, Northriding

(NB it is NOT the Bellairs Mall on the corner of Malibongwe, but 3 robots down in Bellairs Dr)

We have a target to raise R30 000 over the 2 weekends please help us achieve this?

You can help by donating, attending and sharing. CLAW is desperate for your 2nd hand collars and leads please bring them along to the sale? Both organisations need tinned dog food please?

We Need Your Books

Please, bring them along to the SAINTs sales (or drop off at the Barking Mad Rescue Centre) and help us to raise more funds, the type of books that we sell are the type you would find in a good second hand Book Store, thank you


Equine Clicker Clinic with Overseas Instructor Shawna Karrasch

Shawna Karrasch, a very successful US equine clicker trainer, is coming to South Africa in March - see details below. For more info on her work visit www.on-target-training.com

For further info or booking please contact Krizelda on krizelda@gmail.com

FRIDAY 29 MARCH - an evening Demo starts at 6.

SAT 30 MARCH - a day clinic. You bring your horse and Shawna introduces you to the work she does and then works in short sessions with you and your horse.



PRESENTED BY:-Scotty Valadao

www.scottysdogs.co.za : www.friendsofthedog.co.za

This course is for anybody who is considering a career with dogs. It is presented at ‘grass roots’ level and will give you an excellent foundation from which to take your career forward and put you in a position to undergo more in-depth training and studying.

The course is available by correspondence with practical sessions for those in Gauteng. Two certificates are available – One for successful completion of the course with practical experience, and another for successful completion of the course without practical experience.

Please note that this course does NOT qualify you as a behaviourist, but does give you the basic tools you will need to make a start in this wonderful, exciting and rewarding profession.

The course includes the following:

Comprehensive Theory as detailed below.

Practical Experience

(a) – One day private practical on completion of each segment.

(b) – One day Tellington TTouch practical (Additional practice at rehab sessions)

(c) – Once a week attendance on a 6 week Puppy Course on a Sunday morning.

(d) – Minimum of once monthly attendance at a rehabilitation session at a shelter.

(e) – As and when time allows, students are welcome to shadow me at behaviour consults. This will be arranged between us, with a maximum of one student attending at a time.

Theoretical Case Studies

Role-play practical session on behaviour problems

Students will be tested after completion of each segment to gauge their knowledge.

Having breed knowledge is an essential part of becoming a behaviourist. Students will be required to investigate and submit breed studies on the 10 post popular breeds.

Next course starts at end of January 2013. Students work at their own pace and have a maximum of 12 months to complete the course. Course may be started at any stage throughout the year. Full investment is R5818 payable by way of R1000 deposit and 6 monthly payments, via debit order of R803.00. Correspondence only is R4818.00 with R1000 deposit R636.33p.m.

Should you be interested in this course, please contact scotty@scottysdogs.co.za for bookings or should you need more information.


Loving home needed for Maxi and Roxi (together if possible)  Maxi is a loving, playful 5 year old wheaten Labrador. She has a wonderful nature. A little scared of lightning but nothing a bit of TLC and her thunder shirt can’t fix. She hasn’t been around cats. Full Vet reports available and inoculations are up to date

Roxi is a 5 year old black Labrador. She is great around children. She hasn’t been around cats. She is a dedicated companion that loves to talk and let you know how her day is going. Full Vet reports available and inoculations are up to date. Please contact me if you are interested. Kathleen 073 217 4749 or kittykatlee@gmail.com

Molly & Tinka looking for forever loving home.  2 x Foxterrier sisters, inseparable, 12 months old are looking for a forever home. They did not have a good life until now. Very cute. Please contact Jenny on jennyl@global.co.za

Maui Maui looking for a loving home. Little ginger boy, 1yr & 2months – was born December 2011. Very independent, loves his pellets and every second day has his treat. Friendly with visitors/children. Not always liking to be held but rather come and sit by you on his own accord. Contact Michelle Morris T: +27 12 427 2912 I F +27 86 750 2384 I M +27 72 435 8383 or Michelle.Morris@aurecongroup.com

2 YORKIES NEEDING HOMES URGENTLY GAUTENG (Can be homed separately) JJ (male) & Slush are looking for loving homes. Slush is 2 years of age and has been sterilized. Both sterilized. The adoption needs to happen urgently though. Please give Avril a call on 0829655883 if you are willing to take on one of these little chaps

It has recently been announced that Kitty and Puppy Haven (KPH) in Corlett Drive, Johannesburg will be forced to shut their doors at the end of January 2013 unless they can raise enough funds to purchase a new property to house the animals. More than 200 dogs, cats, puppies and kittens now face the very real possibility of being euthanased if the Haven cannot make alternative arrangements to house these animals. http://www.kittypuppyhaven.org.za/ Any assistance to them would be of great benefit, as the haven continuously cares for and rehabilitates hundreds of animals every year. Help us to give the "four legged people with fur" a chance of a better life by forwarding this email to as many friends, family and colleagues as possible.

Home for Saffie. I’m doing this because I think it is the best thing for Saffie, she stresses so much that I’m not sure how she will cope with the upheaval of relocation. Spayed female Cat. Micro chipped, Inoculations up to date, 1 April she will be 7 years old, she must have a lap to sit on and always sleeps in or on the bed. Very much a home body doesn’t stray and is an absolute sweetheart. Please contact Kim Bawden Mobile +27 (0)83 309 8574 

1 year old small grey female darling cat Urgently looking for a home. Her dad has passed away suddenly, and she would love a new home. She is very very shy, so would need love and patience. Contact Angela Forrest on 0825607554 or aforrest@live.com

Rocco & Jasper - RHODESIAN RIDGEBACKS - URGENTLY NEED A NEW HOME Very urgent.  They are in Cape Town, but can be flown free of charge to DBN, JHB or EL to an approved home.  Rocco and Jasper, litter-mates, 4.5 years old, 55kgs each. Rocco very easy going and friendly. Jasper more cautious (suggest no babies or crawlers/toddlers) but both used to kids from 3yrs upwards. Both love cats. They are looking for a home together. NB - they are to be treated as family pets not guard dogs. If you can help at all please contact Wendy on 079 140 4284 or email wendy.ludlam@telkomsa.net or Liz on 082 803 2178 or email lizpenprase@gmail.com


Editor:Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Instructor for Companion Animal

PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031


Tel: 011 884-3156


Fax: 011 783 1515


Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za





Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Instructor for Companion Animal

PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031


Tel: 011 884-3156


Fax: 011 783 1515


Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za



© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.