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  Newsletter:
  OCTOBER 2012, TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER
1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS WITH EADIE JANE EATON
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS WITH EDIE JANE EATON
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS
5.   TTOUCH TIPS: INTRODUCING A NEW DOG TO A RESIDENT DOG
6.   CLICKER TIPS: PREVENTING JUMPING ON STRANGERS
7.   PUPPIES: TIME ALONE - SETTING YOUR PUPPY UP FOR SUCCESS
8.   BEHAVIOUR: EXCESSIVE GROOMING IN CATS
9.   SHANTI UPDATE
10.   YOUR LETTERS
11.   ODDS AND ENDS
12.   EVENTS
13.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES
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1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER

 October to December 2012


TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER


(Print and read at your leisure – copyright - Eugenie Chopin


Unless otherwise stated)


www.ttouch.co.za - for more info on any subject!


CONTENTS:


1. Eugenie’s Letter


2. Practitioner Training - for Companion Animals –JHB & Cape Town!


i. Gordon’s Bay:  04 -09 April 2013


ii. Midrand: 12-17 March 2013


3. Horse Workshops 19-23 March 2013


4. TTouch Workshops - None


5. TTouch Tips – Introducing a New Dog to a Resident Dog


6. Clicker Tips:  – Preventing Jumping on Strangers


7. Puppies – Time Alone – Setting Your Puppy Up For Success


a. Puppy Socialization Classes In Your Area


 8. Behaviour / Health


a. Behaviour: Excessive Grooming in Cats


b. Health: Three things every owner of an older dog should be doing


9. Shanti & Friends Update:


10. Your Letters


11. Odds and Ends


a. Website of the month: Dog Driving School


b. Interesting Links


12. Events


a. Big Top Rock Circus – The Ultimate Rock & Roll Circus – Kitty & Puppy Haven Fundraiser


b. Guide Dog Association - Puppy Raising Scheme


 c. Irwin Animal Rescue Centre - Appeal For Toys And Volunteers


 13.  Dogs or Cats Urgently Needing Homes / Lost animals


Note that things highlighted in yellow refer to Western Cape


 


Congratulates to Eugenie Chopin for becoming the first TTouch Instructor in South Africa!


Eugenie was recently honoured by Linda Tellington-Jones at a Tellington TTouch Celebration in Santa Fe, New Mexico for her years of work in this field along with her tireless energy in promoting the work in South Africa.


Eugénie is American born from Louisiana, although she has now been in South Africa for over 35 years. She was an animal lover from a young age but was never allowed a dog as a child as her father was handicapped and on crutches. She maintains she’s still trying to make up for it! Eugenie came to TTouch when her dog SPCA special, Danilo became the neighbourhood villain and bully. After trying many traditional methods she came upon TTouch, which not only changed both their lives, but probably saved Danilo’s as well. Eugenie maintains that most unwanted behaviours that clients want to work with, she has experienced with Danilo, and so empathy and experience come fairly easily!


The results with Danilo were so amazing that Eugenie soon wanted to share the work and thus began the Tellington TTouch Program in South Africa. She runs this Program and the TTouch Office in South Africa and works to ensure that practitioners stay current with new techniques as well as old ones. The program has been running since 2001 and South Africa now boasts over 75 Practitioners.


Eugenie has a Master’s degree in Applied Music and spent many years performing Opera and teaching singers. She never dreamt that she would end up following a career with animals. Her real passion is dogs and she loves teaching people about ways to interact with animals that are neither frightening nor forceful. Because of this, she has spent extra time in the US becoming an expert on clicker training which she combines with TTouch when it’s appropriate and useful.


Eugenie runs 2 or 3 Day Clinics, 6-week Classes and consults privately. She has done television spots for both 50/50 and South Africa Today as well as other "specialty programs", written articles for leading animal magazines and done numerous radio interviews. She also teaches week long TTouch trainings for the South African Police Dog Unit. She maintains that life is full and good and yes it is possible to work with the things you love!


1. EUGENIE’S LETTER


Hello TTouch Friends,


Well, it’s almost time to take off for the Holiday Season. Personally, I’ll be visiting family in the States and I’m really looking forward to it! It’s usually relaxing and rejuvenating. It also means that most of us will be leaving our pets at home. I am fortunate to have long time experienced staff to take care of my animals but not everyone is so lucky. So a few things you might consider:


Make sure all animals are chipped or properly tagged in case they get lost


If you’re leaving pet with staff, make sure they have phone numbers of friends, Vets and any other person that could help in an emergency.


Alert friends that they might receive a call.


Make sure there is enough food and medication (if needed) for the time you’ll be away.


If you aren’t going to be home for New Year’s Eve, make sure staff or house sitters know to have the animals safely inside the house with music, TV or some other distraction to drown out the noise of fireworks.


Don’t feel silly for phoning home to "check-in" it’s a good idea and will help you get the Holiday de-stress that you need!


We had a great response from our Christmas Book Clearance Sale and we’re sorry some of you missed it. There were bargains never to be repeated!


2013 will start early next year with the first International Training happening already in early March. Both Johannesburg trainings will be in March with the Cape Town one right after Easter in April. In the meantime, I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a blessed New Year. If you’re like me, it’s not been an easy 2012, but things are definitely on the upward swing.


I look forward to connecting with many of you in 2013


Warmest Regards,


Eugenie Chopin


Tellington TTouch Instructor for Companion Animals


eugenie@ttouch.co.za


www.ttouch.co.za


 

2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS WITH EADIE JANE EATON

JHB: 12-17 March 2013


Cape Town: 04 -09 April 2013


This program is designed so that you can start at any time. We love mixing beginners with more experienced students. It seems to benefit everyone. We have also been inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us.


And YES, we are coming back to the Cape! The Venue in Gordon’s Bay belongs to one of our Practitioners, Claire Grobbelaar, who has opened a fabulous new indoor training facility in Gordon’s Bay and has offered it to us as a Venue. You can find out more about Claire, Canine Concepts and the venue at www.canineconcepts.co.za. We are really looking forward to being back in that beautiful space, place and atmosphere.


The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 6 days. You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a 1 or 2 day workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of your first session, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT V class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.


After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.


The Program is a comprehensive training of hands-on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.


DATE: JHB: 12-17 March 2013


OR


 CT: 04-09 April 2013


VENUE: JHBBroshacarm Kennels – Midrand


 CTCanine Concepts


COST: +/- R4550.00


CONTACTEugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za



Cats Sayings…
There is no snooze button on a cat who wants breakfast
 
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS WITH EDIE JANE EATON

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.


TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.


The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How to Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.


Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn without fear.


A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:


Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform


Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs


Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses


Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force


Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury related problems


Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination




















VENUE


 



HORSE


 



DATE


 



COST


 



CONTACT


 



Midrand Donnybrook Stables



5-day TTEAM with



19-23 March 2013



R4350



Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or 083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on 011 8843156




Cats Sayings…
I got rid of my husband. The cat was allergic
 
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS














DOGS/CATS



Dog



DATE



COST



CONTACT



TBA for 2013


 


5.   TTOUCH TIPS: INTRODUCING A NEW DOG TO A RESIDENT DOG

Successful introductions depend a lot on each dog’s previous experiences with other dogs and how well the first introduction goes. Every effort should be made to set things up to ensure a positive and uneventful meeting and not to take unnecessary risks or short cuts. A fight during the first introduction can leave a lasting impression.


If your resident dog/s has not been positively socialised with other dogs or if you are bringing in an young or adult dog into your home you might consider a trainer or behaviourist to assist you in the initial introduction.


The introduction


The best place to introduce the dogs to each other is a location where your resident dog is accustomed to meet other dogs and has a history of playful interaction with strange dogs. Each dog should have a handler with lots of tasty treats. The owner/s should be relaxed and upbeat as owner anxiety could cause the resident dog to associate the changes in the owner’s behaviour to the presence of the other/new dog. The possibility exist also that the both dogs may cross-attribute the owner’s anxiety to each other and cause the dogs to become tense and apprehensive and interpret the situation as unsafe therefore creating mutual vigilance, agitation and intolerance.


Being confident and jolly can help both dogs to relax and become less ambivalent towards each other.


If you have more than one resident dog then it is best to do introductions one at a time to the new dog. It might take longer, but it is the safest and most successful way to ensure a happy relationship between them.


Avoid face-to-face or stationary introductions as it could be too confrontational to one or both dogs. Start your introduction by taking them for a walk by walking parallel with each other. While the dogs are, walking it gives them the opportunity to also sniff and investigate their environment and takes the intense initial attention off each other, while at the same time they are both having a positive experience while in the presence of the other dog.


Handlers can at this stage give them treats and speak to them in a jolly upbeat manner. Treats can also be given if the dog shows any pro-social interest in the other dog. This way the dog starts to associate the other with something positive.


As the dogs start to relax they can be brought closer to each other whilst still walking. Leashes should be kept loose, sometimes this is difficult, but try to have a loose lead as much as possible. Pulling on the lead could cause tension and lead to reactivity. You can also take turns to play with one dog or throw a toy while the other dog watches. This can reduce tension and prime the dog with arousal that is more conducive with positive social interaction.


If at any stage one dog (or both) become reactive or show any threatening behaviours the offending dog/s are gently but firmly pulled away and the walk is continued as if nothing has happened.


Do not wait for tension or an altercation to escalate before separating them. The quicker tension is diffused the better. Do not verbally or physically punish the dog/s as negative associations could be made with the other dog and it adds tension to the situation. The goal of the initial introduction is to increase familiarity with each other to set the stage to allow sufficient social attraction between the dogs to generate play.


When they become more relaxed with each other presence then you can allow them to have interaction by allowing them to sniff and investigate each other. At this stage long leashes/lines can be used so ensure they have freedom to move around each other and display appropriate body language towards each other. Short leashes might inhibit the dog to display complete body language.


Long leashes also give the dog/s a flight option, should they feel overwhelmed. At the same time it still allows you to separate them should you need to. It might be tricky, but try and keep the leashes untangled, should you need to separate them.


If you know some Tellington ttouch bodywork you could also do some touches on them before and between interactions, to help them calm down and relax. A body wrap might also help them to relax and increase confidence. (See other articles on the website about ttouch, the benefits of massage and the body wrap.)


Keep the initial interaction short. Depending on the dogs, the initial interaction could be a few seconds. Call them away from each other and walk again and treat and play. Then allow them to interact again for a longer period and separate them again. This prevents arousal levels from becoming too high too quickly. With time you can allow them longer and longer interactions. You can do this until you feel comfortable that the dogs are getting along. By this time one or both of them might initiate play. Allow short burst of play at a time, also to prevent the dogs from becoming too aroused around each other.


Bring the dogs back home.


Once the introduction has been successful you can take the dogs home. All dog beds and toys should be picked up before the dogs are brought home.


You can even bring them in the house on their leashes and walk around the property with them while they interact with each other. This allows the new dog to explore the new home environment. When you see they are relaxed then you take the leashes off. (If you are unsure then just attach a dragline on the dog/s) A drag line is a leash with the loop cut off, so that it cannot hook on to something. A dragline is used so that if a fight happens that you can safely pull them apart without possibly getting bitten in the process.)


Gradually bedding and toys can be placed down one at a time to see how the two dogs behave. A dog that has been an only dog for a while might be possessive of his/her toys. If the new dog is a young, adult, or shelter dog you must first assess how s/he will behave with toys with your dog present.


Interactions at home


You may observe ‘disciplining’ and limit setting behaviour from the adult dog towards the new puppy that might seem severe, but it is very rare for an adult dog to injure a puppy. Canine behaviour towards puppies is governed by a social ‘code’ that forbids injurious bites or life-threatening attacks. However it can happen and such dog should not share a household with a puppy.


Various factors will determine the interaction with the dogs at home, such as age, developmental stage and health of the dogs i.e. younger dogs are much more tolerant and even playful towards puppies than older or ill dogs. Highly active and hyper puppies can be source of distress to a much older dog. A confident sociable dog will rapidly establish appropriate limits and boundaries for the puppy, which the owner should not interfere with.


If a puppy continuously ignores these limit setting behaviours from the older dog, especially if the older dog is ill or has mobility problems such as arthritis, the puppy should be removed to prevent the older dog from becoming increasingly irritable with the puppy.


On the other hand a nervous or insecure dog may try to avoid a bouncy and socially intrusive puppy. If such interactions are allowed to persist continuously, irritability and intolerance to social contact towards the puppy can occur, setting the stage for tension between the two dogs.


It is best to foster and facilitate interaction rather than to dictate a relationship of how you think it should be between the two.


Generally giving the resident dog the support and the benefit of the doubt in its efforts to ‘discipline’ the new puppy’s behaviour is beneficial to their social relationship. If the side of the puppy or new dog is taken you run the risk of establishing a highly undesirable alliance and misperception that can exert long-term destabilizing effects on the dog’s relationship with each other.


To increase the social attraction between the two, the resident dog should be provided with appetitive and social rewards given in the presence of the new dog or puppy. The resident dog should continue to receive exclusive alone-time with the owner to reduce the risk of competitive behaviour over the owner’s attention and affections.


If there are any issues or intolerances between the dogs, they should be separated when you are not at home, with the resident dog having the preferred area/location. When you are home, interaction should be supervised until such a time that you feel comfortable with leaving them together when you are not present.


All pro-social interactions from either dog should be rewarded by using praise or treats (if there are no food guarding issues between the two dogs.)


Most dogs gradually learn to accept and enjoy the new addition to the household. Allow time for adaptation (for both dogs) as some behaviours such as house soiling or inappropriate chewing may occur (by either dog) due to the adaptation ‘stress’ of living and sharing an environment with another dog, especially if the new addition is a shelter dog. Allow leeway for minor changes such as temporary bedding and feeding locations until things have settled down.


Copyright Claire Grobbelaar By Claire Grobbelaar -DipCABT (Coape, UK); NOCN, CerCAB; Certified Tellington TTouch™ Practitioner. www.canineconcepts.co.za



Cats Sayings…
These aren't my thoughts, they're my cat walking on the keyboard…
 
6.   CLICKER TIPS: PREVENTING JUMPING ON STRANGERS

By Karen Pryor on 07/01/2004


Q: Can you give me some pointers for using clicker training to stop my dog from jumping on visitors? I have gotten her to stop jumping on family and frequent visitors, but new people are at her mercy.


A:  Clicker training is not for stopping behaviour. It’s for teaching new behaviour. Some new behaviours that interfere with jumping up are: sit on a mat to greet; bow; sit up and beg (not all dogs can do this).


You can build the new behaviour with clicker and treats, and then use family members to ring the doorbell, come in, click and treat the dog while it is standing quietly, go out, and repeat, until the dog thinks standing still is a great way to earn clicks at the door. Then borrow a stranger and repeat, with you or the quickest clicker in the family doing the clicking, and the "stranger" doing the treating. Use super treats; fresh food, not kibble or store treats.


Does the dog like toys? A quick fix is to hand the dog a toy before opening the door. Then the dog runs around showing off its toy and the moment of the urge to jump passes.


Sometimes you can solve the problem of jumping by teaching the dog to touch the back of a held-out hand for a click and treat. Then everyone who comes in holds out a hand before the dog jumps, and you sneak in a click and treat for that. (Your cue to the visitor: "Hold out your hand, she wants to kiss your hand.") It’s often actually a little bit of fear that makes the dog jump on strangers; it’s puppyish appeasement behaviour, jumping and licking to say "Don’t hurt me, I’m only a baby." Of course, it can be an 80-pound lab that feels he has to do this! Touching the hand, on cue, for a click and a treat, reassures the dog ("Oh, this person is just a ’clicker opportunity’") and that may be an easy shortcut, depending on the dog


Thanks to Karen Pryor and www.clickertraining.com - Go to this website for many more interesting articles.


 


 



Cats Sayings…
Everyone knows cats are on a higher level of existence. These silly humans are just too big-headed to admit their inferiority
 
7.   PUPPIES: TIME ALONE - SETTING YOUR PUPPY UP FOR SUCCESS

Treat dispensing toy


Teaching your puppy the valuable skill of being comfortable alone is one of the most important exercises you can teach your puppy. It is important that you start during your puppy’s critical development phase between 8 -16 weeks.


This period is the onset of the first hazard avoidance phase. This is the period where your puppy is learning to perceive potential hazards. During this period your puppy can show discomfort with new situations and frightening or traumatic experiences should be avoided, as they can have permanent effects. All learning should be fun and safe.


It is important to help your puppy habituate to being alone during this period, as it is now that they will learn that being alone can be a pleasant and fun experience and should not be cause for anxiety or stress. This experience will set your puppy up for the rest of his life. It is therefore important that this process is always slow and rewarding for your puppy.


Many people make the mistake of being with their puppy 24/7 when they are young. Unfortunately, it is during this critical time that they then don’t learn to cope with being alone. This can become a problem if, for whatever particular reason, your dog is then suddenly left alone. (Maybe they have bonded to an older dog and that dog dies or you have to go away and your dog has to be alone. Your dog could also need to stay at the vet overnight and would then be alone.)


In the beginning, it is important that the time alone be small amounts, just a few minutes is fine. Start off by leaving the room for a while and closing the door behind you. You can leave your puppy with a yummy treat or chew toy (link to store) to keep him occupied. Don’t make a fuss about leaving, just leave. If you can hear your puppy barking or scratching at the door, don’t open it. Wait for the scratching and barking to stop and then open the door.


Don’t pay your puppy any attention just go about your day. Do this a few times a day building up the time. It is important to keep the time away random (sometimes 2 min, sometimes 5, sometimes 1) This way your puppy can learn to be alone in increments that he is comfortable with and he learns that good things occur when he is alone.


Note:   Please make sure the environment you leave your puppy in is safe! It is important to note your behaviour when leaving and coming back either into the room or even back home after work. Make sure when you leave, that you don’t make a big fuss about leaving ("good bye my baby, mommy will be back very soon!") this can cause anxiety levels to rise. Instead just simply leave as if nothing out of the ordinary is happening.


The same should be said for arriving home. It is important that you don’t make a fuss of your dog the minute you walk in the door and encourage him to get over excited. Instead just walk in as if you never left and go about your business. When your dog is settled and you are ready, then you can initiate a playtime or say hi!


 Serious behaviour problems can occur with dogs that have not been habituated to being alone effectively. Such behaviours include Separation Anxiety. This behaviour can be indicated through barking (whilst the owner is out), chewing and destructive behaviour (whilst the owner is out) as well as excessive excitement when the owner returns. These are only a few examples but should you feel your dog is experiencing separation anxiety please contact a behaviourist for help and more information.


Note: Please note that time alone means that your puppy needs to be completely alone. No other people around i.e.: garden service, gardener, domestic worker, another dog or animal!


 Thank you to Scotty and Friends of the Dog for letting us use the article. www.friendsofthedog.co.za


Laura-Jade is the owner of Proud Pups in the Randpark Ridge & Honeydew areas


 


Puppy Socialization Classes:


 All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.


 Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove:  Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za


Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za


Riverclub Vet in Parkmore:  on Saturday mornings with Puppy 1 and Puppy 2 classes. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com


Bryanston on Wednesday evening, Thursday morning and Saturday afternoons for Puppy 1, 2 and Advanced Open classes. Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com


Gordon’s Bay: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za


Heidelberg: ordaanpark, contact Ilze van der Walt: zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448


Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za


Oaklands, JHB: Puppy Socializing Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net


Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net


Cape West Coast - Langebaan. Puppy 1 Classes. Adult classes. Private Sessions on request. Wendy Wilson – overthemoon@iafrica.com 083 336 1761.


 



Cats Sayings…
Cats are better than any vice. They're not fattening, dangerous, or expensive. However, they can be addictive

Cats Sayings….
I have noticed that what cats most appreciate in a human being is not the ability to produce food which they take for granted, but his or her entertainment value
 
8.   BEHAVIOUR: EXCESSIVE GROOMING IN CATS

The medical name for excessive grooming in kitties is psychogenic alopecia. It happens when a cat’s normal licking activity crosses over into an obsessive behavior.


Excessive grooming is one of the most common compulsive disorders in cats.


Excessive Grooming Often Starts as a Displacement Behavior


Psychogenic alopecia often begins as what’s called a displacement behavior.


Cats need their daily routine to be very predictable and consistent. Some kitties, when they feel stressed by a change in their environment, will start performing a behavior like grooming themselves. This is an example of a displacement behavior.


The type of stress that prompts excessive licking tends to be ongoing and is usually a combination of stressors that are cumulative. So… a new family member, a move to a new house, or even the relocation of the litter box can upset the average cat and trigger displacement behaviors.


These displacement behaviors help to reduce emotional tension that the cat is feeling. Licking releases endorphins, so the behavior makes sense in the context of a cat who is trying to soothe himself. If the anxiety-producing situation continues, the cat may continue the displacement behavior repetitively, until it becomes obsessive.


Some Cats are More Prone to the Behavior than Others


Female cats tend to be more prone to psychogenic alopecia than males. The disorder can happen at any age, but is commonly seen about the time of puberty.


There is probably a genetic basis for the condition, because it’s seen primarily in certain purebred cats – primarily the oriental breeds – with generally anxious temperaments.


The disorder can also occur in kitties who are hospitalized, boarded, bored, deprived of their freedom, or who are generally stressed or have a high-strung disposition.


Other Causes of Excessive Grooming


It’s important to differentiate psychogenic alopecia from other reasons kitties will lick areas of their bodies, such as skin issues or pain.


There are lots of medical reasons cats over-groom. If the problem is generalized itching, the licking is usually widespread.


If there’s a painful area, the licking will be focused there. For example, back pain or anal sac impaction will prompt the cat to lick just that particular area. This behavior is also referred to as fur mowing.


Where a cat focuses her licking can give clues to the root problem, which can be any number of things – fleas, a neurologic problem, a chiropractic problem, parasites, food allergies, or a reaction to dust, pollen, or mold.


Conditions that aren’t skin-related but can cause excessive grooming include cystitis, hyperthyroidism, and anal sac problems.


Identifying and correcting underlying medical issues is important before assuming your cat is licking for an emotional reason. If a kitty licks to the point of breaking the skin, infection can occur. The presence of infection will intensify the licking, which can result in an even more serious infection and a vicious cycle develops.


How to Spot Excessive Grooming Behavior


Cats spend about 30 to 40 percent of their day grooming themselves, and much of the remaining time is spent snoozing. So it’s common for pet owners to have no clue there’s a problem until they notice significant hair loss, bald spots, or scabs from over-grooming.


It’s also possible cat owners don’t notice the behavior because when the person is there, the cat feels more comfortable and relaxed and doesn’t need to self-soothe by licking.


Obvious signs of psychogenic alopecia are excessive licking and chewing. More aggressive kitties can resort to biting themselves and pulling out patches of hair.


There may be shafts of hair that are chewed down to stubble, or there could also be skin wounds or ulcerations.


Hair loss and skin damage will be localized to areas of the body where the cat actually can reach to lick and chew. Oftentimes, it’s the abdomen, flank, back, chest, and the inner legs. Often


there’ll be a line of stubble down the back or on the front leg that looks a lot like a buzzed haircut.


In addition to excessive licking, there can be other signs of stress, including hiding, refusal to eat, and nervousness. These are all general tip-offs that the behavior could have an emotional rather than a physical root.


But I’ve seen plenty of excessive groomers where the only symptom of stress manifested as the psychogenic alopecia. The kitty appears to be calm, but is just over-grooming.


Helping a Cat with Psychogenic Alopecia


When all medical causes have been ruled out or resolved and you’ve narrowed the problem down to an issue of obsessive behavioral licking, treatment should be focused on stress reduction and environmental enrichment.


Cats like to eat at the same time every day, so make feeding time very consistent. Keep food bowls and litter boxes in a consistent location and, of course, very clean. Provide your cat with hiding boxes, access to high perches, and appropriate scratching surfaces.


Most kitties enjoy interacting with people, so take time every day to make sure your cat’s emotional needs are being met. You can involve physical activity with an interactive toy like a laser pointer. Brushing your kitty is beneficial for removing hair and cutting down on hairballs, and is quite enjoyable for many cats.


Consider investing in a treat or food-dispensing toy for your cat. You can also think about window perches or even kitty videos to help provide environmental enrichment.


You can talk to your holistic vet about stress remedies for anxious kitties. I’ve had success in treating these kitties with flower essences, homeopathics, and also acupuncture. Consider reducing stress with feline facial pheromone sprays such as Feliway.


Most importantly, you need to be patient, as excessive grooming problems usually take quite some time to resolve. But with consistent attention, affection, and routine, most kitties do get their psychogenic alopecia under control. They re-grow their hair, and their quality of life improves within a few months’ time.


About Dr. Becker.  Dr. Becker is a licensed veterinarian in Illinois. Voted one of Chicago’s top 10 veterinarians, she is certified in veterinary acupuncture and homeopathy, and opened her clinic, the Natural Pet Animal Hospital, in 1999


  


CANINE BEHAVIOUR FOUNDATION COURSE


PRESENTED BY:-  


Scotty Valadao


www.scottysdogs.co.za : www.friendsofthedog.co.za


This course is for anybody who is considering a career with dogs. It is presented at ‘grass roots’ level and will give you an excellent foundation from which to take your career forward and put you in a position to undergo more in-depth training and studying.


The course is available by correspondence with practical sessions for those in Gauteng. Two certificates are available – One for successful completion of the course with practical experience, and another for successful completion of the course without practical experience.


Please note that this course does NOT qualify you as a behaviourist, but does give you the basic tools you will need to make a start in this wonderful, exciting and rewarding profession.


The course includes the following:


Comprehensive Theory as detailed below.


Practical Experience


(a) – One day private practical on completion of each segment.


(b) – One day Tellington TTouch practical (Additional practice at rehab sessions)


(c) – Once a week attendance on a 6 week Puppy Course on a Sunday morning.


(d) – Minimum of once monthly attendance at a rehabilitation session at a shelter.


(e) – As and when time allows, students are welcome to shadow me at behaviour consults. This will be arranged between us, with a maximum of one student attending at a time.


Theoretical Case Studies


Role-play practical session on behaviour problems


Students will be tested after completion of each segment to gauge their knowledge.


Having breed knowledge is an essential part of becoming a behaviourist. Students will be required to investigate and submit breed studies on the 10 post popular breeds.


Next course starts at end of January 2013. Students work at their own pace and have a maximum of 12 months to complete the course. Course may be started at any stage throughout the year. Full investment is R5818 payable by way of R1000 deposit and 6 monthly payments, via debit order of R803.00. Correspondence only is R4818.00 with R1000 deposit R636.33p.m.


Should you be interested in this course, please contact scotty@scottysdogs.co.za for bookings or should you need more information.


Anybody who is doing TTouch Practitioner Training will qualify for a 5% discount due to my association with TTouch.


 


HEALTH: Three Things Every Owner of an Older Dog Should Be Doing


By Dr. Becker: 


The canine lifespan seems too short, doesn’t it?


By the time a large breed dog is 10 years old, he’s considered retirement age in human years. Giant breeds age fastest of all, but even the littlest guys at age 18 are the equivalent of a 90-year-old human.


Most committed dog owners want to keep their furry companions with them as long as possible, well into old age. Caring for a happy, healthy senior means providing:


Physical and emotional comfort as your dog ages


Balanced, species-appropriate nutrition, especially high-quality protein


Ongoing, regular opportunities for exercise, socialization and mental stimulation


Providing Physical and Emotional Comfort to an Aging Dog


If your dog seems physically uncomfortable, it’s important not to assume it’s just a natural part of aging. You want to make sure she’s not in pain, so a visit to the vet is in order.


Twice-yearly vet visits are very important for older pets so that you and your vet can stay on top of physical and mental changes that may indicate a disease process underway. The sooner a health problem is diagnosed and treated, in most cases, the better the outcome.


Keeping your pet at a healthy weight and physically active will help control arthritis and degenerative joint disease as he ages. Chiropractic adjustments, stretching, water exercises, and acupuncture can also provide enormous benefits in keeping dogs mobile in their later years.


There are also supplements that can be added to your dog’s diet to help maintain healthy tendons, ligaments, joints and cartilage. These include glucosamine sulfate with MSM and eggshell membrane, omega-3 fats (krill oil), ubiquinol, supergreen foods like spirulina and astaxanthin, natural anti-inflammatory formulas (herbs, proteolytic enzymes and nutraceuticals), and Adequan injections, which can stimulate joint fluid very rapidly in pets with arthritis.


Regular massage can help keep your senior pet’s muscles toned and reduce the slackening that comes with aging. Massaged muscles are looser, which makes it easier for your pet to move around comfortably.


Massage also improves circulation and encourages lymphatic drainage. It can ease the stiffness of arthritis, which helps your pet maintain his normal gait and active lifestyle. Massage also loosens the muscles around joints, which helps promote ease of movement.


If your dog is having some urine dribbling or incontinence as a result of his age (and not caused by an underlying condition that should be addressed), provide him with more frequent potty trips outside. You can also reintroduce him to his crate if he was crate trained initially.


If your dog has problems hearing or seeing, use odor cues like scented candles or other aromatherapy products to help him find his way around.


Consider purchasing or building ramps for a dog who is having trouble getting into the car or up on the bed or a favorite chair.


For sleep problems in older dogs, try increasing his daytime activity level. Let your pet sleep in your bedroom. Sleeping near you should help ease any anxiety that is contributing to his nighttime restlessness.


Guide your dog with clear cues and easy-to-follow instructions, especially if he’s showing signs of mental decline. And when you talk to your dog, keep your voice quiet, calm and kind.


The Importance of High-Quality Protein for Older Pets


Contrary to what many pet owners and even veterinarians believe, studies indicate dogs (and cats) need more protein as they age, not less.


The reason senior dog food formulas boast reduced protein content is because the poor-quality protein they use is difficult to digest, especially for older dogs who’ve been fed the stuff all their lives.


The rendered protein sources used by most major pet food manufacturers put chronic strain on the kidneys and liver, so by the time a dog is into her senior years, her organs can no longer do their job efficiently. This is why commercial reduced protein diets for senior pets were created.


It’s an unfortunate situation, because your dog actually needs more protein as she ages – not less – in order to maintain healthy lean muscle mass and good organ and immune function. But the type of protein most dogs thrive on is whole, unprocessed, and preferably raw.


Older Dogs Still Need Exercise, Socialization and Mental Stimulation


Senior and even geriatric dogs still need daily exercise to maintain good health and a resilient frame. Certainly older dogs can’t exercise or compete with the same intensity as the younger set, but they still need regular walks and other age-appropriate physical activity.


There are three types of strengthening exercises that can also be of tremendous help to aging canine bodies:


Passive range-of-motion (PROM) exercises can benefit both incapacitated and physically healthy pets.


Balance and proprioception (spatial orientation and movement) exercises help older pets remain flexible while also encouraging improved balance and physical stability.


Targeted strengthening exercises are designed to work the big muscle groups that help with standing, walking and running.


No matter how old your dog is, she still needs regular social interaction with other pets and/or people. As is the case with humans as we age, if your four-legged family member doesn’t stay active and involved in life, her world can become a confusing, intimidating place. She needs regular exposure to other pets and people, but take care not to over stimulate your dog – short periods of socialization and playtime in controlled situations are ideal.


Enriching your dog’s environment can help to alleviate or stall the mental confusion and decline of cognitive function that often come with old age. Sticking to a predictable daily routine can help reduce a pet’s anxiety and mental uncertainty.


Puzzle toys like the Clever K9 provide fun and mental stimulation.


Supplements that can help improve mental decline in aging dogs include S-adenosylmethionine (SAMe), vitamin B6, vitamin E, resveratrol, ginkgo biloba, and phosphatidylserine.


About Dr. Becker: Dr. Becker is a licensed veterinarian in Illinois. Voted one of Chicago’s top 10 veterinarians, she is certified in veterinary acupuncture and homeopathy, and opened her clinic, the Natural Pet Animal Hospital, in 1999


 


 



Cats….
Some people have cats and go on to lead normal lives

Cats…
Cats are like potato chips. You can never have just one
 
9.   SHANTI UPDATE

I recently was scratching Shadow’s tummy (the cat) and found a largish lump. I was worried as I am aware that fast growing lumps can be malignant. So off we went to the Vet and thankfully it was a hematoma which had probably come about from her jumping, missing and knocking her body on something hard. This is blood under the skin which the body actually heals from within.


The only difficulty was getting the sample to test what it was. Now, have you ever tried to hold a cat down in order to get a needle in? It rather reminds me of that email going around about how to give a cat a bath! Anyway, two of us held while the Vet took the culture. It’s amazing to see how quickly she recovered her dignity once it was over.


I am also grateful that I have a Vet who not only knows how to do these things without anaesthetic but has staff who really knows how to hold on. I believe anything we can do to avoid putting chemicals into the body, the better.


So now a few weeks later, the lump is gone and all is well in Kittyland!


Shanti in the meantime, seems to be handling this year’s thunderstorms better than ever. While she still wants to be near me when the thunder starts to roll, there is not the panting and whining which we’ve experienced in previous years.



Cats Sayings…
For a man to truly understand rejection, he must first be ignored by a cat
 
10.   YOUR LETTERS

Dear Heleen,


I must thank you from the bottom of my heart for what you have done for Bella and I.


As you know, before Bella and I met you, I could not even take Bella for a walk without her lunging toward other dogs behind fences.


Well, I am sure you will be happy to know that I can now walk Bella peacefully, with the help of her Halti head collar and doing some TTouch before we go for the walk. She will not lunge toward dogs on the other side of the road anymore. She is not 100% reliable yet, but she does ignore them 80% of the time now which is 80% better than she has ever been.


You will also be surprised to know that I can actually take Bella to dog school again now! She barks and acts nasty when we just arrive but after a little TTouch she will ignore the other dogs for the rest of the ENTIRE lesson with the exception of, if the dog is running or playing excitedly, then she will react by barking, but the fact I can even take her at all is an achievement.


Bella and I have a much better relationship now. Life isn’t a walk in the dog park but it sure is a distant stroll around the park. Where before there was not even a thought of any park or walk!


Our experience with you and with TTouch has changed our life for the better! I thank you for this and Bella is happy that she gets to go places more often now.


Licks and hugs,


Alicia


Bella and Alicia was a lovely case study that Heleen worked on while she was still a Practitioner-in Training, before qualifying as a Practitioner 1 in April 2012


 


Apollo and Zeus were picked up running around near a shopping mall by Husky Rescue and are believed to have been used as bait dogs in dog fighting. Both dogs were scared of humans and needed to be rehabilitated in order for them to be adopted


Apollo and Zeus were picked up in Bedfordview about 2 weeks ago by Husky Rescue. It is suspected that they were used as bait in dog fights. They were then housed at private kennels in Benoni. A very nice sized pen with a hut to sleep in. They initially destroyed their mattress and have also been digging. They are very scared/wary of humans and it has been difficult to try and catch them to take them to the vet. They have been sterilised and all vaccinations done and have been deemed by the vet to be healthy. The vet believes them to be about 2 years old, but they are very small for their age.


Fears: Wary of humans in general, scared of touch


Then Karin Betz, a student in the TTouch Practitioner programme busy with case studies took Apollo and Zeus on as case study. She did 6 sessions with them and this is a letter we received from the owner Natalie:


Hi,


 


Just a quick e-mail to let you know that today is a very special day to be celebrated every year – ZEUS ALLOWED ME TO TOUCH HIM TODAY!!


He was lying in the kitchen and I went down on my knees and asked him very nicely if I could touch him just a little – he allowed me to stroke his head, ears and back!! Then I left it and went to the dining room – he followed me!! I asked again if I could touch him a little more this time and he let me scratch his tummy and his bum.


He now follows me EVERYWHERE – I touched him 6 different times in the past half hour.


You guys are always so apologetic for crying, but I just want to tell you that I am sobbing my heart out as I am writing this. I feel so honoured to be trusted like this!


When my husband gets home tonight I will ask him to take a few pics of me touching Zeus…


I hope you all have a wonderful weekend! Mine cannot get any better than this!!


Lots of love,


Natalie


Xxx 


Zues and Apollo were case studies Karin Betz worked on.


 


After gardening previous evening, I found that the next morning I could not bend forward at all. The moment I bend forward or reach over I got a sharp pain in my lower back, that was so severe I could rate it 7 or 8 out of 10. It was not constant pain, the pain is only felt when bending over.


So I put the body wrap from my ribcage criss cross, covering loosely also my lower back. I drove to work this way. The drive is about 45 minutes and by 30 minutes, I started to feel irritated with the wrap as if the body wrap is too tight, and took of the wrap still in car, I decided it was a mistake. The moment the wrap came off I could actually feel that the lower back was sore.


At work I put the wrap back on (over my clothes), wore it for another hour or more, but then became too aware of the wrap and took it off again (would rate my back pain only on movement at about 4 out of 10. This time there was much more movement in my back but it still felt a bit sore. So back on the wraps went again. By midday, the pain was gone and I have nearly 80% movement back in my back. No pain at all. (rate pain at 1 or 2 and only on movement very far out of alignment). Will put the wrap back on for the 45 minutes drive back home.


From Jeanne Basson – TTouch Companion Animal Practitioner 1


 



Cats Sayings…
Anything on the ground is a cat toy. Anything not there yet, will be
 
11.   ODDS AND ENDS

a.  Website of the Month: Driving School for Dogs in New Zealand


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-20614593


Well, you might have to see it to believe it, but have a look. Fascinating! A charity in New Zealand is teaching rescued dogs how to drive a car. The canine driving school is aimed at proving how intelligent the animals can be.Monty the giant schnauzer is among the novice drivers who have learned to control the brakes, gears and steering wheel. Bill Hayton reports


b. Interesting Links


This is clever and wonderful music and ingenious choreography . . . . .


This is clever and wonderful music and ingenious choreography . . . . .










"Shadowland"


http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=STK7AZ_Zs_E&vq=large


 

Alan Titchmarsh interviews Cesar Milan


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=97lwtUkXjwQ


Whenever the owners of a house with a pool came home, they found puddles of water near their Pool. They believed that the neighbours kids waited till they went out, to use the pool……


So they installed a camera & this is what they saw………


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rgmXxPPyHk


 


Amazing--best dog show ever


!!... I smiled all the way through....have never never seen anything even close to this!!


http://www.flixxy.com/dog-show.htm


 

12.   EVENTS

Big Top Rock Circus – The Ultimate Rock & Roll Circus – Kitty & Puppy Haven Fundraiser


Date


: 5 December 2012 – Wednesday


Venue


: Rivonia Barnyard


Contact


: Lorraine at 076 500 5353 or fleetwoodlorraine@gmail.com


Guide Dog Association - Puppy Raising Scheme


Puppy Raising scheme, as this is where we need volunteers hands-on with the dogs


If you have any queries regarding the Puppy Raising Scheme, please contact one of the Puppy Raising Supervisors on (011)705 3512 or and dogs@guidedog.org.zathey will send you information and the application form.


IRWIN ANIMAL RESCUE CENTRE - APPEAL FOR TOYS AND VOLUNTEERS


Over the past year, many changes for the better have taken place at Irwins and they are doing everything humanly possible to improve the life of the dogs being kept there. As at all shelters, there is always a shortage of money and what is available is being spent on improving the kenneling, feeding, vet bills and dedicated to getting the balance of the dogs sterilized.


They still have in excess of 400 dogs being kept and precious few volunteers and the dogs have absolutely no entertainment or distraction apart from barking when people visit or a car drives into the shelter. This alone is enough to increase stress levels.


I am not asking you to donate money, but what I am asking is for anybody who can to please donate a toy or try to volunteer to interact with the dogs, even if it is only once a month, and even if you have not done any TTouch – a loving pat from somebody that cares, can make the world of difference in a dogs life.. The more these dogs receive stimulation by way of toys and interacting with people, the better chance they have of being adopted.


The drop-off points and ideas for toys are below


* Empty 2L Coke bottles with some cubes in them - Irwin’s will put in the holes ..so that they do not empty while travelling. * Hooves * Kongs, Zoinks etc * Balls of all sizes * Ropes for pulling * Small size tyres * Chew Bones and Rawhides * Dog toys - all sizes and shapes welcome (please do try not to donate toys that could prove dangerous with small bits that can be chewed and/or ingested.).


DROP OFF


 


:- Walkers Fruits Farms - Tanya - tanya.sequeira01@gmail.com - 079 618 5522 Lyndhurst - Scotty - scotty@scottysdogs.co.za - 073 735 0469 Edenvale - Charmaine - cadutoit@gmail.com - 082 810 7260 Cresta - Ady - ady@talkingdog.co.za - 083 400 2987 Kensington - Katherine - katherine@kbehave.co.za - 072 954 2423 Alberton - Elaine - elaineb59@gmail.com - 072 642 4447 Roodepoort/Krugersdorp - Gaynor - gaynor@worldonline.co.za - 083 700 9330


If you would like to get in touch with Tanya with the view of volunteering whenever you can, she can be contacted at tanya.sequeira01@gmail.com - 079 618 5522


 


Guide Dog Association - Puppy Raising Scheme


 


Puppy Raising scheme, as this is where we need volunteers hands-on with the dogs


 


If you have any queries regarding the Puppy Raising Scheme, please contact one of the Puppy Raising Supervisors on (011)705 3512 or and dogs@guidedog.org.zathey will send you information and the application form.


 


IRWIN ANIMAL RESCUE CENTRE - APPEAL FOR TOYS AND VOLUNTEERS


 


Over the past year, many changes for the better have taken place at Irwins and they are doing everything humanly possible to improve the life of the dogs being kept there. As at all shelters, there is always a shortage of money and what is available is being spent on improving the kenneling, feeding, vet bills and dedicated to getting the balance of the dogs sterilized.


 


They still have in excess of 400 dogs being kept and precious few volunteers and the dogs have absolutely no entertainment or distraction apart from barking when people visit or a car drives into the shelter. This alone is enough to increase stress levels.


 


I am not asking you to donate money, but what I am asking is for anybody who can to please donate a toy or try to volunteer to interact with the dogs, even if it is only once a month, and even if you have not done any TTouch – a loving pat from somebody that cares, can make the world of difference in a dogs life.. The more these dogs receive stimulation by way of toys and interacting with people, the better chance they have of being adopted.


 


The drop-off points and ideas for toys are below


 


* Empty 2L Coke bottles with some cubes in them - Irwin’s will put in the holes ..so that they do not empty while travelling. * Hooves * Kongs, Zoinks etc * Balls of all sizes * Ropes for pulling * Small size tyres * Chew Bones and Rawhides * Dog toys - all sizes and shapes welcome (please do try not to donate toys that could prove dangerous with small bits that can be chewed and/or ingested.).


 


DROP OFF


 


 


 


:- Walkers Fruits Farms - Tanya - tanya.sequeira01@gmail.com - 079 618 5522 Lyndhurst - Scotty - scotty@scottysdogs.co.za - 073 735 0469 Edenvale - Charmaine - cadutoit@gmail.com - 082 810 7260 Cresta - Ady - ady@talkingdog.co.za - 083 400 2987 Kensington - Katherine - katherine@kbehave.co.za - 072 954 2423 Alberton - Elaine - elaineb59@gmail.com - 072 642 4447 Roodepoort/Krugersdorp - Gaynor - gaynor@worldonline.co.za - 083 700 9330


If you would like to get in touch with Tanya with the view of volunteering whenever you can, she can be contacted at tanya.sequeira01@gmail.com - 079 618 5522

13.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES

 PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED


Two Labrador dogs above are looking for a new home  . The owners have been forced to move and are not able to take the dogs with them. They are 4 years old and have papers. The black lab is a male and the yellow lab is a female and she has been spayed. The owner is not looking for money and asks that the dogs be kept together. Anyone who would be interested in these dogs can contact Shaun Naidoo on 083 289 2743


CHINTZ_Needs A Happily Ever After.  Chintz is about 8 years old gorgeous mink colour cat, and is neutered; he is terrified of dogs but fine with other cats; his mom has had to go into Frail Care due to ill health and they do not allow pets there, hence he needs a happily ever after. Contact Pearl on 081-463-7099 or Sheldon on 083 604 0468


Alex (a.k.a. Alexander the Great) has overcome so many obstacles in his short life already. He now looking to go to good home.  Alex is a fun loving, playful boy. Age: ±9 to 10 weeks young, Breed: Boerboel X (we think.... never had the opportunity to meet mommy or daddy). Contact Dorette or Theo on Cell: 084 581 2383 (after 16h00) e-mail: dorette@sagateway.com


 


Beloved Zana looking for a forever home.  . Gorgeous 1year old female, medium sized cross breed dog. All vaccinations up to date, sterilized and chipped. Owner relocating to a flat, and cannot take Zana with. Please contact Yvette on 072 606 2156


Want to adopt Truffles?  This boy is being fostered by Madeleine Venter in Pta. 7-8 year old, loves playing with other dogs. Do you have a sunny spot in your heart and home? Contact Madeleine Venter at 072 599 8251


EMERGENCY.  for 2 old labs who have endured enough!1 is BLIND! Two very old female labs who are between 10 and 12 years of age and who have not had a nice life so far. Their original owners abandoned them and the ppl that took over the house have been "taking care of them". They were taken away and our vet has assessed them. If there is any way you can find it in your heart to foster these babies and bring a little light and love to their lives if the vet gives us the all clear - please let us urgently know. You can email jhb@pets.org.za or call 082 446 7274


BEN AND CUDDLES looking for a forever home together.2 x young cross breed dogs looking to be adopted together. Contact Janie at janie.pets@gmail.com if you can give them a home. They love to play and cuddle.


Dobermann Pinchers looking URGENTLY  looking for a home – Short & Sweet looking for a forever home. Both 5 years old, the girly is exceptionally small. Contact Diann on 083 4199 110 even if you can just offer them a foster home for now.


Foxy little girl - TrixiFound in Pta north in one of the busiest roads. She seems to be still young, gets along with other dogs. Contact Cilla on 083 339 1692 or cillat@nissan.co.za


 


Dumped kittens (Gauteng)  We found the kittens and the mom when we went out riding. They are not feral and the mom is extremely loving. She can’t be older than a year. The kitties are in Pretoria East. Want to give any of them a home, contact Mariana on 083 650 7380


 


Coco would love a loving home with teenager kids. He loves his walks. He is 5 years old. ID number is 01 0236. Please contact Tanya Sequeira on 079 618 5522 or Tanya.sequeira01@gmail.com


 


Special Home Needed For Rommel.  In Pretoria North - Deadline Mid November . Jack Russel boy, 4 years old, looking for a special loving forever home with lots of love. One dog/family boy. Contact Cilla on 083 3391692 or cillat@nissan.co.za


 


Cats at FourPaws looking for homes:  Bubbles, Emerald, Doggie Doo, Sunny Girl, Mia, Smirnoff, Maverick all looking for good homes. If you are willing to foster or adopt one of these PURRRRFECT specimens then please contact Sacha on 083 377 3219


 


Good home needed for 2 year old female Jack Russell.  A 2 year old spayed vaccinated female Jack Russell urgently requires a good home. Her owner recently died and the person caring for her at the moment has to move into a retirement home in the next two weeks and this retirement facility does not allow dogs. If you can assist, please phone Merle on 0833300702.


Pregnant mum dumped in pond.  Had puppies 2 days later she and her pups are now looking for loving fur-ever homes. The puppies look like a Boer bull/Labrador cross. The mother is more Labrador but the puppies definitely have some Boerboel in them. They are still very young but will all need houses when old enough. Of course the mother will also need a new home. She will be such a loyal animal child to any family. Anyone interested in either mum or puppies please contact: Cilla 083 339 1692 cillat@nissan.co.za or Corrie 079 229 2799


 


Editor:


 


Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Instructor for Companion Animal


PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031


 


Tel: 011 884-3156


 


Fax: 011 783 1515


 


Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za


 


 

 
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.
 

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