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  Newsletter:
  JANUARY 2012, TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER
1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS: APRIL 11-15, 2012 WITH LINDA TELLINGTON-JONES
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS: TTOUCH DOG / CAT WORKSHOPS AND CLASSES
5.   TTOUCH TIPS: DOING BELLY LIFTS – THE WHY AND THE HOW
6.   CLICKER TIPS: HOW TO TAME YOUR KITTEN, CLICKER-STYLE
7.   PUPPIES: TEACHING BITE INHIBITION BY NIKI ELLIOTT
8.   HEALTH: HELPING SHY ANIMALS OVERCOME THEIR FEARS
9.   SHANTI UPDATE: SHADOW DECIDES HARLEY IS A SAFE HAVEN IN A THUNDERSTORM
10.   YOUR LETTERS
11.   ODDS AND ENDS
12.   EVENTS
13.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES: PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED
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1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER

January/February 2012

TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER

(Print and read at your leisure – copyright - Eugenie Chopin

Unless otherwise stated)

www.ttouch.co.za - for more info on any subject!

CONTENTS:

1. Eugenie’s Letter

2. Practitioner Training - for Companion Animals –JHB & Cape Town!

a. Client Mornings

b. Gordon’s Bay: April 2nd and 3rd

c. Midrand: April 21 & 22

3. Horse Workshops – JHB

4. TTouch Workshops - Dog: July 14 & 15

5. TTouch Tips – Belly Lifts

6. Clicker Tips – Taming your Kitten with a Clicker

7. Puppies – Bite Inhibition

a. Puppy Socialization Classes in your area

8. Behaviour / Health

a. Behaviour: Helping Shy Animals overcome their Fear

b. Health: 10 Great Reasons to adopt an older Dog

9. Shanti & Friends Update: Shadow decides to trust Harley in a Thunderstorm

10. Your Letters

11. Odds and Ends

a. Book of the month – A Guide to Raptors

b. Website of the month: Sarah Fisher at an Expo giving 50 minute lecture on TTOUCH

c. Interesting Links

12. Events

a. SAINTS Book Sale

b. SAINT’s Gorgeous T-shirt sale

c. Animal Outreaches

d. SPCA / Hills MuttWalk

e. Executive Garden Cottage

13. Dogs or Cats Urgently Needing Homes / Lost animals

Note that things highlighted in yellow refer to Western Cape

1. EUGENIE’S LETTER

It’s amazing how the year seems to start gently and then before you know what’s happened, it’s in full swing! This has certainly happened to us in the TTouch office! There is great excitement to have Linda Tellington-Jones and her husband Roland joining us at the end of March for a trio of trainings. One Companion Animals in Gordon’s Bay, one in Midrand and of course the TTeam (horse) training in Glenferness in April.

If you can’t come to one of the longer trainings, there is the opportunity to meet Linda at one of the 4 Client Days for Dogs. Although the slots for bringing your dogs are all full, you can come as an observer for only R70 for the morning. There will be a Demo and then our Practitioners-in-Training will work with the client dogs. There will be Client Mornings in both Gordon’s Bay and Midrand. You’re welcome to call me and book on 011 884 3156.

I recently was in the Kruger a week after the floods. While I wasn’t overly impressed with the Parks information system to let people know what roads, etc. were open or closed, as usual just being in the bush had it’s perks. Thought I’d share a couple of my favourite pictures. Going in mid-summer might be a bit on the hot side, but the bird life makes up for any discomfort. I saw the most amazing raptors and am getting better at identifying them with the help of my favourite raptor book called the Raptor Guide of Southern Africa by Ulrich Oberprieler and Burger Cillie. Each raptor has a full 2 pages with one being multiple pictures of adults, juveniles, immatures, etc. It’s a true blessing for amateurs like myself trying to identify birds in the wild!

This female spent time on the road just in front of me, letting her cub play with her tail. This young one had a great time stalking grabbing and biting Mom’s tail until she finally had enough! Don’t you just love living in Africa!

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Practitioner 3 for Companion Animals

eugenie@ttouch.co.za

www.ttouch.co.za



Job Description for Cats…

BATHROOMS - Always accompany guests to the bath room. It is not necessary to do anything. Just sit & stare.
 
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS

With Linda Tellington-Jones, creator of this amazing work

JHB: 18-23 April 2012

Cape Town: 30 March – 4 April 2012

This program is designed so that you can start at any time. We love mixing beginners with more experienced students. It seems to benefit everyone. We have also been inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us.

And YES, we are coming back to Cape Town! We had a super class in October 2011, so we’ll be back at the end of March. The Venue belongs to one of our Practitioners, Claire Grobbelaar, who has opened a fabulous new indoor training facility in Gordon’s Bay and has offered it to us as a Venue. You can find out more about Claire, Canine Concepts and the venue at www.canineconcepts.co.za. We are really looking forward to being back in that beautiful space, place and atmosphere.

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 6 days. You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a 1 or 2 day workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of your first session, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT IV class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands-on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.

DATE: JHB: 18-23 April 2012

OR CT: 30 March – 4 April 2012

VENUE: JHB: Broshacarm Kennels – Midrand

CT: Canine Concepts, Gordon’s Bay

COST: +/- R4550.00

CONTACT: Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za

Client mornings

If you can’t come to one of the longer trainings, there is the opportunity to meet Linda at one of the 4 Client Days for Dogs. Although the slots for bringing your dogs are all full, you can come as an observer for only R70 for the morning. There will be a Demo and then our Practitioners-in-Training will work with the client dogs. There will be Client Mornings in both Gordon’s Bay and Midrand.

Dates: Monday 02 April and/or Tuesday 03 April in Gordon’s Bay

Saturday 21 April and/or Sunday 22 April 2012 in Midrand

Times: 10:00 to 12:00

You’re welcome to call me and book on 011 884 3156.

Advanced Training for Companion Animals - open only to Practitioners of Tellington TTouch with Robyn Hood

Date: 15-17 Sept 2012

Cost: R2300

Venue: Brochacarm Kennels - JHB Contact: Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za



Job Description for Cats…
DOORS - Do not allow any closed doors ... in any room. To get the door opened, stand on hind legs & hammer with forepaws. Once door is opened, it's not necessary to use it. After you have ordered an outside door opened, stand half-way in & out & think about several things. This is particularly important during very cold weather, rain, snow, or mosquito season.
 
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS: APRIL 11-15, 2012 WITH LINDA TELLINGTON-JONES

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How to Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn without fear.

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury related problems

Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination

VENUE

HORSE

DATE

COST

CONTACT

Midrand

Donnybrook Stables

5-day TTEAM Linda Tellington- Jones

11-15 Apr 2012

R4350

Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or 083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on     011 8843156

Midrand Donnybrook Stables

5-day TTEAM with Robyn Hood

Starts 27 Sept 2012

R4350

Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or 083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on 011 8843156

The Riding Center,

Hout Bay Main Road, Hout Bay

TTouch: An introduction to a gentle way to build partnerships

17&18 March 2012.

Time: 9am – 4pm

R750 for weekend (excl lunch and ground levies)

Catherine Williams Tel: 082 569-8641

www.quadri-sense.yolasite.com www.ttouch.co.za



Job Description for Cats…
CHAIRS AND RUGS - If you have to throw up, get to a chair quickly. If you cannot manage in time, get to an Oriental rug. If there is no Oriental rug, shag is good. When throwing up on the carpet, make sure you back up so it's as long as a human's bare foot.
 
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS: TTOUCH DOG / CAT WORKSHOPS AND CLASSES

VENUE

DOG

DATE

COST

CONTACT

Sandton Sandown

Weekend dog

July 14-15

R800

Eugenie Chopin on 011 8843156 or eugenie@ttouch.co.za

5.   TTOUCH TIPS: DOING BELLY LIFTS – THE WHY AND THE HOW

By Linda Tellington Jones, Sarah Fisher & fillers by Eugenie

Belly lifts help dogs relax their abdominal muscles, and to take deep breaths. It helps dogs to release tension through their ribs, belly and back.

Belly lifts are especially effective for digestive problems and nervousness. It can help a dog/animal that is picky or just off their food and can encourage him to eat.

Pregnant bitches usually enjoy this TTouch; The Belly Lift is useful for dogs with stiff or sore backs, and dogs that have a problem getting up from the floor.

Belly lifts are especially useful for most animals:

Animals with colic – it helps to get the intestines moving

Animals with digestive problems

Animals that are dehydrated and have little gut sound

Pregnant animals (humans included), to relieve the downward pressure

Horses who are cinchy or cold-backed; it helps them to learn to breathe instead of holding the breath and tensing

Horses who object to having the girth or cinch tightened, they learn to feel comfortable with the pressure and start breathing

Young horses before being saddled, to prevent cinchiness and holding of the breath

Swaybacked animals

Animals with sore backs: takes pressure off the back

Animals with low backs, it gives them a new sense of bringing their backs up

Ticklish animals who object to being touched under the belly; it helps them to learn to breathe and accept touch

How to do it:

Belly lift with your hand

Put your one hand under the abdomen and your other hand on the back of your dog.

With the hand closest to the front legs apply pressure toward the spine, but only to the extent that your dog is comfortable. Hold this position for about six seconds then slowly release the pressure. The slower you release, the more effective this TTouch will be. Then move a bit along the body towards the rear end and do again. You should be able to get in about 4 on a medium size dog. You might then repeat from the front going towards the rear of the animal.

You can do the Belly Lift in various ways, but whichever method you use, it’s important that you work slowly. For example, you may gently lift the animal’s abdomen with a towel in six seconds. Hold this position for another six seconds before releasing the pressure very slowly taking about ten seconds. The slow release is of utmost importance for getting the desired effect. Start on the belly right behind the elbows and move toward the hindquarters by the width of your hand, or the towel, for each subsequent lift.

If you do Belly Lifts while you are standing, with somebody else make sure you protect your own back. Stand by the side of the dog and support your elbow with your hip, while the other person is turned towards the dog with her legs in the position of taking a step and her knees slightly bent. You can also do Belly Lifts by yourself using your hands. Make sure that your movement comes from your pelvis, knees and feet in order to protect your back.

You can also do the Belly lift with a Body wrap (elastic bandage). Start by folding the bodywrap in half, start by the elbows of the dog, holding the ends of the bodywrap in each hand, but in such a way that it is only a small movement – thus close to the dog, supporting the dog. This is a movement very close to the dog. Start the lifts behind the elbows, holding the ends of the bandage firmly, gently lift the for a count of four. Hold for another count of four and then slowly release for a count of eight. The release is the important part of the exercise.

My dog doesn’t like belly lifts:

Reduce the lift so that you are barely moving the wrap at all

Lead the dog over raised poles to start initiating movement in the ribs and spine

Try the Abalone TTouches (will be explained next time)

Belly lifts on large animals: The lifts can be done by two people on either side of the animal, either by holding hands under the belly, or by using a folded towel or wide girth belt. When using your hands, allow as much flat surface as possible to lay against the animal’s belly (be sure to remove any jewelry that might poke into the belly). I prefer to use a folded towel or surcingle whenever possible because the pressure is more evenly distributed and it is easier on people’s backs.

Starting just behind the front legs, gently lift the animal’s abdomen. Hold that position anywhere from ten to fifteen seconds, depending on the reaction. Then slowly release the pressure – the slow release is of utmost importance in getting the desired effect.

If you can make the release twice as long as the lift, that would be ideal. Be sure to use your legs, not just your back to lift.

If your animal objects, lift until you can just feel the downward pressure of the belly. Move three to six inches towards the hindquarters and repeat the procedure. Continue until you are as close to the flank as seems comfortable and safe (some animals are very ticklish or sensitive in this area, especially when in pain).

The Belly Lifts can then be repeated three or four times, starting each time up toward the elbow.

When you are alone you can use your forearms and hands to do a Belly Lift. Again, be sure to use your legs when you lift, rather than your back and shoulders.

From Linda Tellington-Jones books: The Tellington TTouch and Getting in TTouch with your Dog as well as from Sarah Fisher "Unlock your dog’s Potential"



Job Description for Cats…
HAMPERING - If one of your humans is engaged in any activity, and the other is idle, stay with the busy one. This is called helping, otherwise known as hampering. Following are the rules for hampering:
When supervising cooking, sit just behind the left heel of the cook. You cannot be seen and thereby stand a better chance of being stepped on and then picked up and comforted.
 
6.   CLICKER TIPS: HOW TO TAME YOUR KITTEN, CLICKER-STYLE

BY Joan Orr

Canny cats

From tiny tigers to diminutive panthers, all with entertaining antics and adorable little faces, kittens are one of the great joys of life. But young cats are not just charming; they can be formidable as well.

Despite their fluffy exteriors, house cats come armed with the same weapons as their larger cousins, and with an instinct to hunt and kill. Kittens begin testing their teeth and claws on their siblings, but soon learn to temper their assaults or be left out of the game. Left to their own devices, kittens will grow into cats that are capable of survival on their own without human help. The self-reliance and independence

of cats are traits that many cat owners value in their pets. At the same time, owners do not appreciate furniture torn to shreds or children in tears as a result of a kitten playing too roughly.

Because cats are so equipped to look after themselves and provide entertainment and companionship, sometimes it does not occur to cat owners to try to train a cat. In fact, many people believe that cats can’t be trained. "Cats do what they like, when they like—and why not?"

However, the things that a cat likes to do may be at odds with the cat owner’s view of suitable behaviour. Training encourages the cat to change its behaviour and become an upstanding feline citizen. Couch potato cats learn to be more active, shy cats learn to come out from under the bed, cantankerous cats learn to be more loveable. Training strengthens the human-animal bond and enriches the lives of both cat and owner. Training is essential for feral kittens that have been living wild without human interaction, if they are to be integrated into a human home.

Clicker training—easy and fun

Training encourages the cat to change its behaviour and become an upstanding feline citizen.

So, how do we train a kitten? Clicker training is a purrrrfect way to tame a tiny tiger—or even a full-sized one. When the kitten does something good, he gets a click and a treat. (We know that cats will not waste time or energy on anything that does not benefit them!) It is very common for pet owners (and parents too!) to ignore the kitten (child!) when it is not causing trouble, and pay attention to mischief. Wouldn’t it make more sense to ignore the undesirable behaviour and pay attention when the kitten is doing something adorable?

Karen Pryor tells a story of a kitten who received a click and a treat every time the owner saw it doing something cute. It didn’t matter if it was a new behaviour or something the kitten had done before. As it grew, this kitten developed a wide range of adorable and entertaining behaviours and was a delight to have around.

Start with kitten tricks

Kittens are very busy with their paws, and this makes it is easy to teach them to give a high five or to wave. Hold a tantalizing toy above the kitten’s head, just out of reach, and she will bat at it with a paw. Click as the paw comes up and then let the kitten play with the toy briefly. Again, hold it just out of reach, click when the kitten waves a paw, and let her play once more. Add the cue "wave" just as the kitten is raising her paw. After a few tries, give the wave cue before she starts to lift a paw. In a few training sessions, the kitten will learn to wave on the verbal cue without needing to see the toy dangling above her. Keep the behaviour strong by clicking for especially high or fast waves and producing the toy as a reinforcer.

Clicker training is a purrrrfect way to tame a tiny tiger.

If your kitten is motivated by food, you can give a food treat after the click instead of using the toy as a reinforcer. Kittens love to chase and pounce, so tossing a treat or even a piece of dry cat food after the click adds to the fun. Tossing a toy for the kitten to chase is another reinforcer that you can use after the click. If your kitten is finicky and has trained you to deliver only the tastiest moist cat food, put some in a syringe (without the needle) and give the kitten a tiny taste after each click.

Teach the kitten to follow a target. A jingle ball or ping-pong ball on the end of a chopstick makes a good target. Click/treat when the kitten looks at the target, then when she sniffs or touches it with her nose. Move the target, and click/treat when she starts to follow it. Add the cue "touch" once the kitten has the idea. Soon you will be able to use the target to call the kitten to you, or have her come off the counter, go to her carrier, walk beside you, do other tricks, or run an obstacle course while she follows the target.

Kitten essentials

Jennifer Shryock is an animal behaviour consultant and clicker trainer whose favourite training activity is taming feral kittens so that they become social with people and, therefore, adoptable. Jen suggests training the following essential kitten skills:

accept handling

soft paws (retract claws when playing with people)

touch and follow a target

go into carrier on cue and for sanctuary if frightened (for example, if a fire alarm goes off, the kitten runs for a carrier that is kept near an exit)

Kittens can learn to love their carriers, just the way puppies learn to love their crates. Play a clicker game with the kitten by clicking and giving her a treat when she looks at the carrier, when she takes a step toward it, when she eventually puts one paw in, and then when she adds another paw. Continue until she is going in, waiting for the click, and then coming out to chase the treat. Toss the treats so that the kitten can chase, pounce, and eat. This is tremendous fun for the kitten! Be sure to toss the treats away from the carrier so that the kitten can then race back into the carrier to elicit another click from you.

Kittens can learn to love their carriers, just the way puppies learn to love their crates.

There are many other ideas for making the cat carrier interesting and enticing. Toss an interesting toy into the carrier for the kitten to chase. Give the kitten her dinner in the carrier. Leave tasty treats in the carrier for the kitten to find. Leave the door open so that the kitten can go in and out at will. Wiggle an enticing toy through the holes in the carrier from the outside, so that the kitten must go in to play with it. Once the kitten is having loads of fun going in and out of the carrier, close the door part way, and then all the way, with the kitten on the outside. Let the kitten figure out how to get in to the carrier to get the toy or treat.

Soon you will have a kitten that loves the carrier and knows how to get into it. Leave the carrier (with a soft bed in it) near an exit. The carrier will become the kitten’s sanctuary, and the place she will head to if she gets frightened. This habit may save her life in the event of a fire or evacuation order.

Necessities of life

Every kitten will have to go to the vet for shots, spaying/neutering, and micro chipping. Visiting children will almost certainly try to pick up a kitten at one point or another. Teach your kitten to tolerate touch, using the same methods as for carrier training. Click and toss a treat (or dangle a toy for a few moments of play) when the kitten looks in your direction, then when she comes a little closer (and closer), and then when she comes to sniff your hand (if there is a little cat food gravy on your hand this will speed up the process!). Touch the kitten in different ways and on various parts of her body while letting her eat soft cat food from a syringe. Click and toss a treat any time the kitten makes contact or allows longer contact. 

Handle her feet, look in her eyes, feel her tummy, open her mouth as if you were the vet doing an exam. Click and treat each step to reinforce the kitten for cooperating.

When you play with the kitten, click and treat if she is fairly careful with her claws. Stop the game if she gets too rough. Raise your criteria so that she gets a click and treat (or more play) only when she uses soft paws (no claws at all).

Taming shy or feral kittens

Fearful or standoffish kittens benefit significantly from clicker training, because it gives them the control they need to build confidence.

Some kittens don’t want anything to do with humans and are fearful or standoffish. These kittens benefit significantly from clicker training because it gives them the control they need to build confidence. Click and toss a treat to a kitten from across the room. Allow the kitten to decide on the next move and click/treat anything that is a little closer to friendly or less fearful behaviour. Maybe just looking at you without hissing is worth a click.

Kittens can learn cute tricks like waving, spinning, standing on hind legs, and jumping to a chair without having to come too close. The clicker gives you a way to communicate with the kitten without encroaching on her space. Jennifer Shryock reinforces shy kittens with a click and treat (or play) when she sees them stretching. The stretch is a tension reliever for the kitten and, if reinforced, will be repeated. More stretching means a more relaxed kitten; eventually, the kitten can learn to stretch deliberately in order to calm herself.

Rewards for all

Clicker training will help any kitten gain confidence. The training increases the kitten’s trust in you, and she will be more likely to seek out your company. She may even get to the point of snuggling in your lap. If you are involved with kitten rescue or work at a shelter, clicker training cats and kittens to come to the front of the cages and to wave or give a high five makes them instantly more adoptable. Clicker training is easy to teach to new owners, and kittens adjust very quickly in a new home where the owners know how to give familiar cues and reinforce with a click/treat.

The click is non-emotional, clear, precise, and consistent—what a relief for the kitten when she discovers that these new people are just as trainable as the old ones!

About the author

Joan Orr is a ClickerExpo faculty member and Advisory Board member of Karen Pryor Academy for Animal Training & Behavior 

 


Job Description for Cats…
HAMPERING - If one of your humans is engaged in any activity, and the other is idle, stay with the busy one. This is called helping, otherwise known as hampering. Following are the rules for hampering:
For book readers, get in close under the chin, between eyes and book --unless you can lie across the book itself.
 
7.   PUPPIES: TEACHING BITE INHIBITION BY NIKI ELLIOTT

Puppies bite, this is a fact. Puppy biting is normal, natural and necessary puppy behaviour. It is the way that puppies develop bite inhibition & a soft mouth. Bite inhibition is the single most important lesson a dog must learn.

Adult dogs have teeth & jaws that can hurt & harm. All animals must learn to inhibit use of their weapons against their own kind, but domestic animals must learn to be gentle with all animals, especially people & other dogs. The narrow time window for developing a "soft mouth" begins to close at 4˝ months of age, about the time when the adult canine teeth first show.

The more your puppy bites & receives the appropriate feedback, the safer his jaws will be in adulthood. The combination of weak jaws, extremely sharp teeth & the puppy’s inclination for biting result in lots of play bites, none of which cause any injuries. This is how the developing puppy receives essential feedback on the force of its bites before it develops strong jaws. The more opportunity the pup has to play bite with human and other dogs the better his bite inhibition will be in later life.

For puppies that do not grow up or have interaction with other dogs the responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lies with the owner.

Puppy biting behaviour must eventually be eliminated, however the biting behaviour should not be eradicated all at once. Puppies must learn to inhibit the force of their biting before they are taught to stop biting & mouthing altogether.

The first step is to stop your puppy from hurting people.

It is not necessary to reprimand the pup & physical punishments are contra indicated as they generally make matters worse, it can make some pups more excited and can damage the puppy’s temperament by eroding its trust in the owner. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A loud high-pitched "Yelp", for a tough puppy, or a softer tone for a sensitive pup, like one puppy would sound to another, is usually sufficient.

When the puppy backs off, take a short time out to "lick your wounds", instruct your pup to come, sit & lie down to apologise and make up.

Then resume playing. If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a "Bully" & leave the room & shut the door. It is much better to leave the puppy in isolation rather than trying to physically restrain it and pick it up to remove it to a confinement area when it is already out of control!

This means that you should make a point of playing with your pup where it would be safe to leave it unattended should its play get out of hand. ie. in the pups long term confinement area.

This is exactly the way puppies learn when playing with each other. They cannot bear to loose a playmate so they soon learn to bite more softly when play continues.

Allow the puppy a minute or two time-out to reflect on the association between his painful bite & the immediate departure of his favourite human chew toy & then return & make up. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

The next step is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even though the bites no longer hurt. While your puppy is chewing his human chew toy, wait for a bite that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt, even though it did not. “Ouch, gently, that really hurt, you bully”
Puppy thinks you are soft & he must be more careful, that is what you want. Ideally, the puppy should not be exerting any pressure when mouthing by the time he is 4 – 5 months old.

Once your puppy has been taught to mouth gently, it is time to reduce the frequency.
The puppy must learn to stop mouthing when requested. It is better to teach “Leave” using food both as a distraction & a reward.. Have the food in your hand & using this command extend the time between the command of “Leave” & when the pup actually gets the treat.

If the puppy touches your hand, start from the beginning with your counting to 30. The hand feeding during this exercise also encourages a soft mouth in your puppy. Once the puppy has been taught, “Leave” with food, you can then use the same instruction to get your puppy to leave you hand when mouthing.

While the puppy is mouthing say “Leave”, as soon the puppy lets go praise & treat. The object of the exercise is to practice stopping the puppy from mouthing, so each time the pup leaves praise & treat and allow the mouthing to start again.
Stop & start the mouthing lots of times in a single session. Since the puppy really wants to mouth, the greatest reward for stopping is to allow it to mouth again. When you decide the session is over, say “Leave”, call the puppy away, ask it to settle down and give it a stuffed chew toy to keep it busy. If your puppy refuses to release your hand, remove your hand and yourself from the puppy and leave it on it’s own for a few minutes. Go back, call the puppy to you and sit and make up. DO NOT DO ANY MORE MOUTHING EXERCISES FOR AT LEAST A COUPLE OF HOURS. THEN START AGAIN.
IN SUMMARY

  • TTouch Mouth Work. In previous newsletters Eugenie has explained how to do mouth work. For teething puppies this is a must.
  • Avoid aggressive play. Wrestling, “boxing” at the puppy’s mouth with your hands and tug-of-war can get your puppy excited & teach him that hands are appropriate chew toys. See thank you/take it and tug of peace games (courtesy of Eugenie).
  • Redirect the puppy to appropriate toys. Virtually all puppies need to chew on something, so make sure there are plenty of acceptable chew toys available. Do not give puppy and old shoe, hosepipe or something of yours, as the pup will think that all shoes etc. are available just for him to chew! If puppy attacks your hand, ankle or clothing offer him a favourite toy instead. When he goes for the toy give lots of praise & attention.
  • Practice the high pitched “yelp”. This will startle most puppies and cause them to stop biting for a moment. Withdraw your hand and substitute something else.
  • Keep your fingers curled and your thumb tucked in. Many puppies will not bite at a closed hand.
  • Use time out. If your puppy gets too riled up and won’t listen, and immediately starts to bite again after you have tried some of the other approaches, then isolating him for a brief period in a confined area may be necessary. It is important not to isolate him for very long, as he will forget exactly why he has "lost" his favourite chew toy and get up to other mischief or fall asleep.
  • Supervise play between kids & puppies. Many children are not able to use these techniques on their own and will need your help. Puppies quickly learn that young children can be intimidated by rough play and biting. Adult supervision will be needed until both puppy and child learn how to play appropriately.
  • It is important to continue with bite inhibition exercises otherwise, your dog’s bite will become harder as he gets older. Regularly hand feed your dog & clean his teeth. By the time your puppy is 5 months old, it should have a mouth as soft as a 14-year-old Labrador.

THANK YOU/TAKE IT"

This game teaches your dog to take an object gently and then release it when asked. The cue words for this game were selected for their polite sound. If you prefer a different cue than "Thank you" (such as "give" or "drop") this game will still work, it just won’t sound quite as polite.

What to do: To teach Thank You/Take It, use a toy the pup can hold one end of while you hold the other. A plush toy or knotted rope works well.

First liven up the toy by shaking it, then say "Take It" and offer it to your dog. Hold the toy while the pup mouths and plays with it

To teach your dog to release, say "Thank you" and offer a treat in trade for the toy. Hold one end of the toy and show your pup a treat held in your other hand six inches or so away from the side of his mouth. Most pups will opt for the treat and let go of the toy. If your pup is more toy-oriented than treat-oriented, then offer to trade another favourite toy instead of food.

With either method, when your pup lets go, praise "Good Thank You" and give the reward. Then immediately offer the toy back, saying "Take It!" Praise "Good Take it!" and let your dog play with the toy (while you hold it too).

Repeat this several times, ending with "Take it" and allowing your dog to keep the toy. Everyone wins in this game!

"TUG OF PEACE" Once your dog knows Thank you/Take it, you can increase the excitement level and add exercise with this tug game.

NOTE: This is NOT the competitive tug-o-war that behaviour experts warn owners not to play. Tug of Peace is energetic, but not competitive and it builds an "off-switch" for doggie excitement.

What to do: Start the game by offering your pup a toy that you’ll both be able to hang onto at the same time. Tell the pup to "Take it" and encourage him to do so. Then instead of releasing your hold on the toy, so he owns it, begin tugging gently. Note: Do not shake the toy hard or pull upwards as these movements could hurt the dog. Tug with a slight give-and-take motion straight ahead, in line with your dog’s neck. Pull only as hard as the dog himself pulls. DO NOT try to yank the toy away, and DO resist the temptation to use your true strength. Tugging too roughly can injure a puppy’s mouth or neck.

The act of pulling on the toy will encourage the dog to tug. Play this way for a few moments, then stop pulling, but continue holding the toy. Wait a moment for your pup to realize you’re not actively tugging. Then say "Thank you," and receive the toy from him. Praise and give a treat.

Pause momentarily, then offer the toy back in an exciting way and begin another round of Tug of Peace.

Niki Elliott is a Tellington TTouch Practitioner II and is co-owner of Thinking Pets.

Grooming, Puppy Classes/Obedience Classes/Clicker classes for Dogs & Cats,

e-mail: niki@thinkingpets.com

www.puppiesinbalance.co.za, or www.thinkingpets.com 082 451 0433

8a) Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove: Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za

Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

Riverclub Vet in Parkmore on Saturday mornings with Puppy 1 and Puppy 2 classes. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com

Bryanston on Wednesday evening, Thursday morning and Saturday afternoons for Puppy 1, 2 and Advanced Open classes. Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com

Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends. Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

Gordon’s Bay: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, contact Ilze van der Walt:

zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

Oaklands, JHB: Puppy Socializing Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

Cape West Coast - Langebaan, Puppy 1 Classes. Adult classes. Private Sessions on request. Wendy Wilson – overthemoon@iafrica.com 083 336 1761.



Job Description for Cats…
HAMPERING - If one of your humans is engaged in any activity, and the other is idle, stay with the busy one. This is called helping, otherwise known as hampering. Following are the rules for hampering:
When human is working at computer, jump up on desk, walk across keyboard, bat at mouse pointer on screen, and then lay in human's lap across arms, hampering typing in progress.
 
8.   HEALTH: HELPING SHY ANIMALS OVERCOME THEIR FEARS

Daniel Estep, Ph.D. and Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D.

A friend of ours that has a pet sitting business was telling us a story about the cat she was sitting for that she never saw. "I know he’s there because the food is gone and the litter box has been used" said Sandy. "But I don’t know how to get him to come out and be friendlier".

Shyness around strangers is not uncommon for cats, but even dogs, birds and pet rodents can show this behaviour. So how do we get animals to be friendlier?

Shyness is usually a sign of fear and fears of people can develop for lots of different reasons. Sometimes it develops as a result of a bad experience with a person. For example, the dog may have been stepped on accidentally or the cat may have been abused by unthinking children.

The animal may not have been exposed to people in pleasant ways when young and as a result of this poor socialization, now is fearful of people. Some animals just seem to have genetic predisposition to be fearful of people.

Regardless of the cause, most fears are dealt with in the same way. Gradual, pleasant exposures to people in non-threatening situations are at the heart of reducing most fears. If people can be associated with really pleasant experiences such as getting a tasty treat or playing with a fun toy, then people become more positive and less fearful for the animal.

Our friend could track down the cat, drag him out of his hiding place and show him that she isn’t going to hurt him, but this will not make him more friendly. It will only make him more fearful. Forcing the animal to experience, the things that make him afraid usually only make him more afraid.

Sandy would do better to be patient and wait quietly in the house for the cat to appear on his own and then try to lure him near her by offering him some tasty food or a toy to play with.

If the cat wants to sit far away from her or wants to leave on his own, he should be allowed to do it. It could take hours or even days for the cat to begin to come to her and even with more pleasant experiences, the cat may never be really friendly.

Overcoming fears can take a lot of time and effort and even with the most careful work animals may not totally overcome them. However, most animals can be made less fearful and less shy with love, patience and persistence.

Daniel Estep, Ph.D. and Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D.

www.AnimalBehaviorAssociates.com

Copyright ABA, Inc

Editor’s Note: Of course, we here in the Ttouch office know that we can speed up the "overcoming fear" process with TTouch techniques! This work is probably one of the most powerful methods of helping animals overcome fears. But we really like this article that says patience and honouring the animal’s space is important.

9b. HEALTH: 10 Great Reasons to Open Your Heart to a Senior Pet

This might just be good for your Health!

Editor’s Note: While this might not exactly be deemed health, we like it enough to include here – and of course, it might mean a lot to an older dog that needs a home!

1. Older dogs have manners. Unlike puppies, many grown-up dogs have spent years living with a family and being socialized to life with humans. They may have received obedience training and respond to commands like Sit, Stay, and Down. Many are house trained and it takes a matter of hours or a day or two to help them learn the potty rules in their new home.

2. Senior pets are less destructive. Most older adoptive pets are well past the search-and-destroy phase. You don’t need to worry so much about finding your favorite pair of shoes or a table leg chewed beyond recognition. Chances are your senior kitty has no urge to overturn your potted plant or shred the handmade quilt your grandma gave you.

3. What you see is what you get. A senior pet holds no surprises as to how big he might get, what color his adult coat will be, or whether his hips will be healthy. A senior pet comes to you with his own history, which makes his future much more predictable than that of an 8-week old puppy or kitten.

4. You can teach an old dog new tricks. Adult dogs can focus on the task at hand (unlike many of their much younger counterparts). If your adopted older pet needs to learn a few things in her new life with you, not to worry. Enroll her in an obedience class, contact a trainer, or go the do-it-yourself route. Older dogs are more attentive than puppies, and more eager to please their humans.

5. You can custom order your senior pet. If you’re looking for a short-haired cat, for example, or a kitty with no history of dental disease, you can search until you find an older pet with exactly those attributes. If you already have a cat and need your adoptive dog to get along with cats, again, you’ll have a much better chance of finding an older adoptive dog who is a perfect companion for your family.

6. You can adopt a purebred pet if you want. If you really love a certain breed of dog or cat, chances are there’s a breed rescue club that can point you in the direction of older purebred pets in need of homes.

7. Senior pets are great company for senior citizens. Many elderly people find the calm presence of an older pet very comforting. They appreciate having a companion who is also ’getting up there’ in age, doesn’t mind hearing the same stories again and again, and is content to move through life at a slower speed.

8. Older pets are relaxing to hang out with. Senior dogs and cats have all the basics down and aren’t full of wild energy to burn. Because you’re not constantly chasing around or cleaning up after your older pet, you have a lot more time to spend finding fun things to do or just relaxing together.

9. Adopted senior pets are grateful for your kindness. Somehow, older pets seem to know you gave them a home when no one else would. Many new owners form a close bond very quickly with their senior dog or cat, because the pet shows them a level of attention and devotion that is unique to older adopted animals.

10. You can be a hero to a deserving dog or cat. Almost without exception, people who adopt older animals feel a special sense of pride and purpose in opening their heart to a hard-to-place pet. Doing a good thing really does make you feel good!

Dr. Becker

Dr. Becker is the resident proactive and integrative wellness veterinarian of HealthyPets.Mercola.com. You can learn holistic ways of preventing illness in your pets by subscribing to MercolaHealthyPets.com, an online resource for animal lovers. For more pet care tips, subscribe for FREE to Mercola Healthy Pet Newsletter.



Job Description for Cats…
WALKING - As often as possible, dart quickly & as close as possible in front of the human... especially on stairs, when they have something in their arms, in the dark & when they first get up in the morning. This will help their co-ordination skills.

Job Description for Cats…
BEDTIME - Always sleep on the human at night so he/she cannot move around..
 
9.   SHANTI UPDATE: SHADOW DECIDES HARLEY IS A SAFE HAVEN IN A THUNDERSTORM

The Thunderstorms seem to be continuing and not long ago, Shadow, our black and white cat did something she’s never come even close to doing. She snuggled up to Harley during a thunder storm! What I love about cats is that they are so unpredictable. Just when you think you know them, they change! Shadow has always had good "personal space" around the dogs. She tends to spit first and then ask questions. So one afternoon when the thunder was raging and Shadow’s routine is to jump up on my desk where I’m working just to be close, she came into the office, headed straight for Harley and proceeded to curl up next to his chest.

Harley got a look on his face that said "Uh, what do I do now, this crazy cat is sooo close!" I have to admit I expected him to jump up and move, but bless him, he stayed still and secure and Shadow seemed to trust him to take care of her. I real first! I think this is one of the fascinations with cats, just when you think you know they, they do something entirely out of character! My camera was sitting on the desk and the battery had enough power of 2 shots only



Job Description for Cats…
LITTER BOX - When using the litter box, be sure to kick as much litter out of the box as possible. Humans love the feel of kitty litter between their toes
 
10.   YOUR LETTERS

A client that bought a Thundershirt from us…

I must just add that it works brilliantly on my rescue police dog. So much so, that when I pull it out when I feel it’s needed, he wags his tail, positions himself and impatiently waits for it to be put on. He then settles almost immediately.

It has been the best buy I have ever made for one of my brood!!

’Chat’ soon

Fyrne

********************************************************************************************************************************

Elke Haas

The power of TTouch hits me every day. Sundancer - who used to hide in the furthest corner of his box, whenever humans entered the stable and was not to be tempted by treats - Nowadays knocks against his stable door whenever he sees us entering the stable and even snorted today at me. Opening his stable door I have Sunny watching me, but not retreating and even coming towards me, whereas I only used to see his backside. So grateful for this gift

Hi Eugene

Good luck at the WWDC! Just wanted to let you know that even though I did your course (must be 18 months ago) I always use it on my 4 Pomeranians - and always use the wrap on Sheba for thunder, lightening etc., and it soooo works and she even asks for it on when she knows a storm is coming.

Thanks again for all your incredible tips - which will for me last a lifetime.

Best Regards

Marlieane Wood

********************************************************************************************************************

Hello there,

I just wanted to thank you all for helping me get the thundershirt for "Kruger" before his long first flight to Canada.

I have to say it seemed to work like a charm as I collected him in Toronto some 40 hours after he departed here and he was absolutely fine. I was really impressed as both flights were very rough with turbulence and the airline "lost" him twice but through it all, he seemed totally serene. Thanks again and what a great product. I would recommend it without reservation.

Cheers

Gaynor, Gaynor Rent

***************************************************************************

11.   ODDS AND ENDS

a. Book of the Month: The Raptor Guide of Southern Africa by Ulrich Oberprieler & Burger Cillie

Yeah for this book! It has made a much more enthusiastic and less frustrated birder out of me. For the first time, I really can see the juveniles in the field and have a good sense of what they might be. This book devotes a full 2 pages to each bird with multiple pictures and great notes for identification. I am ever so grateful to have found it last year in the Kruger Park shop. Having said that, I imagine that it’s available at most online book stores including Kalahari.net.

b. Website of the Month: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBKM2sJzEWI&feature=share&mid=57

Sarah Fisher at an Expo giving 50 minute lecture on Ttouch. If you want to get a sense of this work, but can’t afford the time or money, have a look here. It will give you a good overall view of what the fuss is all about.

c. Interesting Links:

Interview with Linda Tellington Jones by Rick Lamb on "The Horse Show". Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZkX3VvJ7Y8 This Youtube video is a just put up link, but will also be at their main website soon. http://www.thehorseshow.com/

See link below of three Masaii stealing meat from lions. You either need large balls or be mad to do it.........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YY4f4OF0BM&feature=related

Handicapped Puppy Melts Hearts on Today Show

www.lifewithdogs.tv

Human Planet - A MUST WATCH

Amazing photography!! After clicking on link below and the first picture appears then click on the picture to start the video http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-12618167

Very Funny Cats http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=Zt6vKNIz_kA



Job Description for Cats…
HIDING - Every now and then, hide in a place where the humans cannot find you and ... do NOT come out for three to four hours under any circumstances. This will cause the humans to panic (which they love) thinking that you have run away or are lost. Once you do come out... the humans will cover you with love & kisses, and you probably will get a treat.
 
12.   EVENTS

Leigh Schenker

I am currently trying to set up a data base of people who I can call on to do home checks for Kitty and Puppy Haven, so that, if a potential adoptive home is in your area I can call on you to do the check, you will be trained in what to look for and given a checklist to use. Please let me know if you are interested and spread the word! Leigh Shenker notification+m71j-d3m@facebookmail.com

SAINTs Gorgeous T shirts to help Shelter Animals:

Payment to be made to: SAINTs - Nedbank Fourways - acc 1684 133 556 branch 168 405 00 (some banks require you to drop the last 2 zeros) PLEASE send proof of payment to vivsaints@live.com

Animal Outreaches

Mike Kerr and his team reach hundreds of rural villages in the Eastern Cape and surrounds, going from each village and squatter camp, tending to the animals most basic needs.

Donations to sponsor sterilisation campaigns and purchase vaccinations available

Take Care

Mike Kerr, Chairperson, Animal Outreaches, Registration Number 078-410-NPO

Winners of the Eco Angel Award 2011

SPCA / Hill’s MuttWalk 2012 (Sunday 25 March)

The SPCA/Hill’s MuttWalk aims to raise awareness around responsible pet care, give family, friends and animal lovers an opportunity to have a fun morning out and bring in much needed funds for the Sandton SPCA.

Where: Field and Study Recreation Centre, Parkmore, Louise Avenue, Sandton

For more information, contact the Sandton SPCA on 011 444 7730 or fionabudd.ctw@vodamail.co.za or http://www.sandtonspca.org.za/

Executive garden cottage next to a river.

6 k’s from 4ways mall in Chartwell North.

Excellent security & separate entrance.

Peaceful & serene.

Only for 1 person.

R6500 pm. Furnished R4200 Unfurnished. incl. water not electricity.

Tel. 079-3535839 Pam Roux at pam@transpersonal.co.za



Job Description for Cats…
ONE LAST THOUGHT - Whenever possible, get close to a human, especially their face, then turn around and present your butt to them. Humans love this, so do it often.
 
13.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES: PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED

Our beautiful angel has gone missing. Her new home was burglarized and she is missing since Christmas time! Distinguishing features - completely black with 1 white spot on her back right paw! Contact Nicole on 072 434 4772

These brothers’ cats need to find the purrfect home HORATIO & CAPELLO are shy and reserved, yet very sweet.. The boys are only about 7 weeks old now but I would like them to go into a home where they can get individual love and attention ASAP. To meet the boys please contact Elanza on 079 492 5763 / kneadingpaws@live.co.za – PTA

Two exquisite kittens need their very own home (Joburg). Bella and Amy who are litter sisters are approx 11-12 weeks old, very friendly, loving and fun seeking girls. They are healthy. Contact Marijke on 084 480 7164 or marijkedupreez@webmail.co.za

Dolly and Angel looking for homes! The owners have to move back to Germany and are desperately looking for homes for their two black and tan spayed standard long haired bitches. Have a look at these beauties, and you can contact Beatrice 079 522 3901 for adoption.

LOST HUSKY. Please will you keep a lookout for our husky he went missing on the 27th Jan 2012 in the Lyttelton area,We have had feedback from Pierre van Ryneveld Hennops Park Irene and Doornkloof. Contact Rob Lawrence at Shangani Information Technologies at 012 6442709 or 0827800464

Rufus - 2 Yr Old Great Dane - Pretoria - Urgent Home Needed And Special Plea. RUFUS is a 2 yr old Harlequin Great Dane. He is a neglected boy – who receives very little attention – and his owners have decided they no longer want him, as he "gets jealous around the other dogs and doesn’t like sharing" ? Want to give him a home, phone Lyn Gardiner on CELL: +27 82 612-5348 (Lyn) or email: lyngardiner@iafrica.com

Beautiful kittens looking for their forever homes - JHB

Kiki & Koko - They are such beautiful little girls. They look like twins and are always together. Kiki is the boisterous one and Koko is more reserved. They are about 10 weeks old now.

Teddy - This little munchkin is about 7 weeks old. He is just too adorable for words. Every time I see him, I have to kiss him. He loves to be close to people. He will climb up and lay by you or lay on the arm rest closest to you- just to be close to you.

Ozzy - This little boy is Teddy’s brother and just as cute. He has really long whiskers and is very playful. He has a very loud purr.

Snoopy - Every litter has a hyper kitten and Snoopy is it. This little girl is very busy and has no problem harassing my older cats to play. Everything she comes into contact with is a toy. She is so sweet and very loving.

Frankie - This gorgeous little girl was found on the pavement. She is about 6 weeks old and fully weaned. She is chubby and has a very loud meouw. She loves to look for trouble with the other kittens, but will complain very loudly if they pin her down. She is really beautiful and soft.

I would love for these babies to go in pairs or to go to homes where they have another cat to play with. Anyone interested in offering these lovies a home can contact me on 0834087696 or jharding2@fnb.co.za. Many Thanks Judy

Editor: Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Practitioner III for Companion Animal

PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031

Tel: 011 884-3156

Fax: 011 783 1515

Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za

 
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.
 

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