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13.   EVENTS
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April / May 2011


(Print and read at your leisure – copyright - Eugenie Chopin

Unless otherwise stated)

www.ttouch.co.za - for more info on any subject!


  1. Eugenie’s Letter
  2. Practitioner Training - for Companion Animals – Cape Town !
  3. Horse Workshops – JHB, Cape Town
  4. TTouch Workshops – JHB & CT
  5. TTouch Tips – Dental work with Horses using TTouch & essential oils
  6. Clicker Tips  –  How to Train a Crazy Dog
  7. Clicker Classes – July/August
  8. Puppies – Puppy outside the home
    1. Puppy Socialization Classes in your area
  9. Behaviour / Health
    1. Behaviour: Thinking of giving a shelter dog a home?
    2. Health: Kennel Cough
  10. Shanti & Friends Update: Kennel Cough in the home & Shadow gets brave
  11. Your Letters :
  12. Odds and Ends
    1. Book of the month –  How to right a dog gone wrong – Pamela S. Dennison
    2. Website of the month: http://www.vetinfo.com/dogindex.html
    3. Interesting Links – fun sites or videos on the web
  13. Events
    1. Golf Day with Husky Rescue May 27th
    2. SOS Save our Shelters evening – May 28th
    3. Breed Lecture Series with Thinking Pets – June 18th
    4. Herbs for Pets workshop

  1. Dogs or Cats Urgently Needing Homes / Lost animals

Note that things highlighted in yellow refer to Western Cape


Hello TTouch Friends!

Well winter has hit us with force. I don’t ever remember it being so cold in April, do you? It felt like one day it was still summer and the next we turned on the heaters in the house. Now I’m starting to enjoy wearing winter clothes and the open fire.

THE BIG NEWS, if you haven’t seen it already is that we are going to take the Companion Animal Practitioner Training to Cape Town! Many of you have asked for this over the years and I do hope that now you will join us on the magnificent journey into the TTouch world. The main reason that it’s possible this year is that one of our Practitioners, Claire Grobbelaar has opened a fabulous new indoor training facility in Gordon’s Bay and has offered it to us as a Venue. You can find out more about Claire and the venue at http://www.canineconcepts.co.za/   We are really looking forward to being there and working with the Capetonians!

There were many changes taking place in the recent trainings. Linda Tellington-Jones, who was supposed to come and teach, had to cancel at the last minute and we ended up having Debby Potts, who had had to leave teaching in Japan because of the earthquakes. It’s amazing how things happen and life sorts it out for us. Debby was a wonderful teacher and I have received numerous letters from students telling us how much they gained from the training. So thanks you Debby! The good news is that we are now scheduling Linda for the same time in 2012. Can’t wait!

More Good News is that we have certified 2 new Practitioners here in JHB for Companion Animals. One is Tricia Levinson, who many of you have met as she has assisted me numerous times at clicker and TTouch courses; and Manuela Fritz, who does dedicated work at Husky Rescue

Debby Potts & Manuela Fritz                                                Tricia Levinson

In addition we have 2 new Practitioners-In-Training: Heleen Prinsloo, our very own PA here in the TTouch office! And Elke Haas, who is already a TTEAM (horse) Practitioner!

So Congratulations Ladies, I look forward to many great years of working with you!

And not to miss that Lindy Dekker, our TEAM Practitioner who organizes all of the horse trainings, has been upgraded to Practitioner 3 for horses. No one deserves it more! I had fun getting this picture of Lindy and Linda, on line via Skype.

Linda Tellington Jones on Skype & Lindy Dekker

I also love the Clicker Tips article this month that clearly talks about working with a “Crazy dog”. I think most of us who have had young dogs can understand that. Certainly when Shanti, my GSP was younger, she wanted to play 24/7 and I found that doing short amounts of clicker training with her was great for both of us.

Here’s hoping to meet many of you again in the Cape in October!

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Practitioner 3 for Companion Animals



(Editor’s Note: I am so sorry I can’t remember where I got this.
Please if you know, let me know!)
Trust the Force.
Don‟t be afraid, just do it

JHB: October 12-17

Cape Town: October 22-27

The TTACT program has changed format somewhat by allowing new people to start in any session. This goes along with the practice used in the rest of the world. We have been inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us.

Again, the exciting news is that we are going to Cape Town this year! Many of you have asked for this over the years and I do hope that now you will join us on the magnificent journey into the TTouch world. The main reason that it’s possible this year is that one of our Practitioners, Claire Grobbelaar has opened a fabulous new indoor training facility in Gordon’s Bay and has offered it to us as a Venue. You can find out more about Claire and the venue at www.canineconcepts.co.za   We are really looking forward to being there and working with the Capetonians!

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 5 & 6 days. You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of your first session, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT IV class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.

DATE:           JHB: Oct 12-17 

OR                   CT: Oct. 22-27

VENUE:        JHB: Broshacarm Kennels – Midrand

                        CT: Canine Concepts, Gordon’s Bay

COST:            +/- R4550.00

CONTACT: Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za

SESSION 6:  CT: March 30th – April 4th, 2012

                       JHB: April 18 – 23, 2012

Don’t be afraid to say NO!
When the teacher is doing more physical work than the student,
the student is not learning, and neither is the teacher

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How to Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn without fear.

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

·         Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

·         Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs 

·         Train your horse  safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses 

·         Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force 

·         Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury- related problems 

·         Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination






Oude Molen stables in Pinelands, CT

2-day TTEAM Workshop

                      21 & 22 May


Catherine Williams on         082 569-8641 or  

Donnybrook Stables

5-day TTEAM workshop with Edie Jane Eaton  

           October  5-9


Lindy Dekker on equibalance@iafrica.com or   083 616 0577 or Eugenie Chopin on  011 8843156

Control the mind to control the head.
Control the head to control the body.
Control the situation to control what the dog learns









Weekend with Eugenie 

                 July 9-10


Eugenie Chopin  011 884 3156 eugenie@ttouch.co.za 

Cape Town Pinelands Scout Hall

           Understand your dog

                 June 4 & 5


Debbie Conradie   Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net  083 992 8767

Gordon’s Bay

TTouch for Dogs

                 May  for 6 weeks


Claire Grobbelaar

021 856 5886 info@canineconcepts.co.za

You must be physically and mentally comfortable to teach.
The student must be physically and mentally comfortable to learn.

By Sandy Rakowitz,  Equine Practitioner2; Companion Animal P1

I recently had my Horse Dentist/Vet to visit for my horse’s dental check-up. Often, vets choose to use sedatives to do dental work with horses as their behavior can be a bit unpredictable, and often horses do not like their mouth handled or the sensations of having their teeth floated. From previous visits with this particular Vet/Dentist, I knew that he was open to not using sedatives if it was not necessary.  I have refused dental work previously with another vet who insisted on using a sedative before knowing how my horses behaved. So my current Dentist/Vet’s attitude and openness were quite welcome with me as I preferred to use alternative methods.

I currently have two horses.  Ibis, a 27 yr old Thoroughbred gelding that I have had for 22 years.  This is the horse that helped introduce me to TTEAM about 20 years ago.  In his younger years, prior to much TTEAM, he would fight having dental work, struggle, lift his head very high and sometimes rear.  With years of TTEAM and quiet handling with this Dentist/Vet, my horse has gotten progressively better over the years.  When I added in the use of a few Essential oils about 8 years ago, it made the process even easier. 

My second horse, Zoey, a 15 yr. old Paint mare has only been with me for 2 years.  She can be a bit reactive at times so I did not know how she was going to be with having her teeth floated.  She has had a variety of TTEAM and TTouches and a lot of mouth work since I have had her. 

Prior to the day of the Dental/Vet visit, I used several short sessions of Mouth TTouches on their muzzle, mouth, gums and nostrils.  Since both horses have had a lot of TTouches generally, I wanted to focus with their mouths to prepare them for the Vet/Dental visit.  I know Mouth TTouches help so much with attitudes, emotions and in the acceptance of various dental procedures.

TTouches Used:

  • Clouded Leopard Circles all around the sides and bottom of the  muzzle; all around and on the nostrils; all around and on the chin, lips and corners of the mouth
  • Slides along the upper and lower gums
  • Tongue and Roof Tapping – since he was going to be working in the mouth, I paid special attention here
  • Clouded Leopard and Lying Leopard Circles all over the face 
  • Ear Slides for good measure!

    The mouth has a direct link to the limbic part of the brain that houses emotions and deals with the ability to learn. I have seen horses deal significantly more easily with the Dental procedures after having had several sessions of TTouches along with Mouth TTouches.  Both horses got very, very relaxed with these TTouches and really enjoyed the mouth work.

    On the day of the visit, I added a few additional minutes of gentle and quiet Mouth TTouches along with some Essential Oils that I know have a particularly quieting effect.  While the Vet was working, I also used TTEAM wand to stroke down the neck, chest, legs to the hooves, along the back and down the hind legs for grounding and calming in the moment.

    Essential Oil Blends that I added just prior to the visit:

    1.  Valor, 10 drops wiped on ears, chest and shoulders. One of my favorite blends for
            balancing energy, relaxing the back and spine and is great for grounding.
    2.  Peace & Calming,
    10 drops wiped on ears, poll, chest & shoulders. A blend that  
           was developed to calm hyper active kids.

    3.  RutaVala, 10 drops also wiped on ears, poll, shoulders and chest. I have found this  
          blend to be unparalleled for calming the central nervous system.

    Both horses were exceptionally quiet and easy to work with to do their dental work this year.  In the past I have not had the RutaVala blend as this is fairly new.  While Valor and Peace & Calming have worked well in the past to bring a state of relaxation, RutaVala completely took any edge off and helped them to stand ever so quietly and patiently for Dr. Rucker.  I was thrilled! 

    In previous years, Ibis, my Thoroughbred, had gotten to where he was quiet but still tense and on edge.  This year, with the additional specific TTouches, I added prior to the day of the Vet visit along with the 3 Essential Oil Blends, he was STELLAR. He was significantly better than any other time in the past.  After a few minutes of dental work, he actually closed his eyes and relaxed into the work being done on his teeth. I have never seen anything like it before. I was very impressed and so proud of him!  Like many Horse Dentists, Dr. Rucker uses a brace to hold open the mouth, and then a special power tool to do the floating.  He had to take the edges off several rear molars for Ibis.  Zoey was also excellent. She stood patiently, quietly, and was easy to work with the entire time.

    These TTouch and Essential Oil tips also work well for visits to the Vet with cats and dogs or in any situation where a calming influence is needed.  The amounts of essential oils will decrease with smaller sized animals.  And the TTouch mouth work needs to be adjusted to the size and shape of the muzzle.  When using Essential oils, I recommend only using Therapeutic grade.  I have found these to be safe with animals and people.  For more information about therapeutic grade essential oils and their uses, or for ordering information, please go to www.onehearthealingcenter.com

    Sandy Rakowitz owns and operates One Heart Healing Center in Charlottesville, VA.  Sandy is a TTouch Companion Animal Practitioner Level 1, a TTEAM Equine Practitioner Level 2, Centered Riding Instructor, and a graduate of the Barbara Brennan School of Healing where she taught for 6 years. In her private practice, Sandy also integrates the use of Animal Communication, therapeutic-grade essential oils and flower essences. (434) 973-8864 www.onehearthealingcenter.com

    Taken from TTEAM Connections, April-June 2011

Be aware of your own tendency to blame.
Be aware of your own tendency to punish.

Call me crazy

I like crazy dogs.

I like over-the-top dogs, dogs that come bounding in biting at their leashes (or anything else they can cram into their mouths). I like rambunctious, nutty, go-getters that exhaust their owners. Those are my favourite dogs to train. Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding. All of that dog energy can be channelled to our own purposes!

Most pet owners want to reduce the arousal their dogs show (and most dogs will calm progressively with age and  training); some competition or working handlers want to keep the hair-trigger reaction, but with reliable, trained behaviours. Both ends are possible with clicker training.

A friend, a crossover trainer like me, was bemoaning the superb enthusiasm of her young, unneutered, standard poodle. His habit of pogo-jumping was wearing her out. "I can’t train him to heel until I can stop his bouncing," she complained.

"Not true at all," I protested. "Don’t you dare try to stop that bouncing. You want that energy for happy, enthusiastic heeling. Use it!"

Channel the energy

How do you channel and use that energy? There are several principles I follow in channelling the energy of eager achievers.

  • Ignore the crazy stuff. Owners of "crazy dogs" tend to see and focus on the obnoxious jumping,  the leash biting, the lunging for enthusiastic greetings, and the persistent harassment to play tug or fetch. I see a dog asking in every possible way to engage with his human, a dog begging for the interaction of operant conditioning. These dogs just adore inductive training and respond to it quickly.

Many compulsive methods require considerable time and effort to suppress unwanted behaviour, all before starting to teach desirable behaviour. With clicker training, you can jump straight into teaching a new behaviour and disregard what you don’t want, trusting that it will disappear shortly. If you are like me, the surplus excitement won’t bother you. With clicker training, you’ll get what you want soon enough!

Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding.

Love that energy. Enthusiasm carries into training, making training that much easier. All the effort the dog is putting into bucking like a bronco on the leash will soon be thrown into eager downs and fast targeting! This makes the trainer’s work simpler. You don’t have to create new behaviour; you just have to shape what’s already occurring. And that’s perfect for a lazy trainer like me!

Use the dog’s own motivation. With an average dog, you have to take time to find what motivates that dog — a special toy, a preferred treat? Crazy dogs are motivated by everything! That means you won’t be stumped when the dog gets distracted or when you’re caught without treats on hand. Simply use whatever is stimulating the dog in the current environment. More benefits for a lazy trainer! "You want to see that friendly new person? Fine, let’s work for it! And you can keep eye contact to earn this stick I picked up." Crazy dogs tend to tell you exactly what they want to work for at the moment. If you believe them — he wants to play tug, or meet a person, or chase a ball—they’re eager to work for their reward. Reinforcement is control.

Too often, owners have been told they have to "get control of" their dog by suppressing his natural energy. But energy has a critical mass; if suppressed and contained too long, it cannot help but explode into activity. This is why a dog that does not know how to earn a toy, for example, will grab at hands or clothing. The forcible condensing of fusion results in a supernova, and the same is true for crazy dogs! Suppression creates time bombs, and the mere illusion of command. With clicker training, you’ll get what you want soon enough! Channelling creates true control. A dog that knows it’s possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer. (Careful management of criteria is critical here!) If you try to fight the dog’s natural exuberance, you will never really manage his energy. But once the dog believes he can earn his energy release, you have him forever.

The dog wins—and chooses control

That’s all very well in theory, but how does this work in practice?

The dog can always win. I start teaching a very basic concept—what the dog wants is available to him, but by my rules. You don’t want frustration, you want analytical thinking. It’s very easy for this type of dog to get locked into frustration and hectic behaviour. You can establish right from the start that there’s a way to win if he thinks about it.

A dog that knows it’s possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer.

Inherently, this concept includes impulse control. Rather than plunging about in a desperate scramble for what he wants, the dog can hold himself still and try to earn it. (If the dog and owner team need impulse control instruction right away, for safety reasons, it is possible to start there. Personally I prefer to jump right in to teaching a new behaviour, but I don’t mind being jumped on or scratched before the dog acquires the new behaviour. Some handlers can’t tolerate such risks, though.)

Here’s how I teach very basic impulse control.

I show the crazy dog a treat, briefly, and then enclose it in my fist. The dog will probably attempt to poke it free, nudging my hand, pawing at me, nipping, and barking. (I usually start this exercise myself, as most clients don’t have the experience to trust where this is going!) The average crazy dog is active and will not pause  in his quest, but will actually pull back as if to pounce again. Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor. Then I repeat the process. Most dogs are backing up within a half dozen repetitions, though some take longer if they’ve been reinforced for obnoxious or pushy behaviour. It’s also possible to do this with a tug toy, but, in any case, practice your technique in advance — accidental nips and grabs are no fun!

Helpful hints

  • Split criteria. Then, split it finer. And even finer! Criteria-splitting is the single biggest error made with crazy dogs. Trainers and handlers tend to "lump," failing to break behaviour into achievable pieces. What would seem like an ideal increment for a more typical dog is really a tremendous leap for "crazy" dogs. When success isn’t achieved quickly, these dogs load energy and release it in hectic and undesirable behaviour. (It’s at that point that some owners or trainers decide to use compulsion or coercion to control the dog.)

Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor.

The thing to remember is that the dog can always win. If the dog knows there’s a right answer and that he can achieve his click, he will not stop trying to get it. There will be problems only if the criteria are not appropriate or if all the pent-up energy is not relieved appropriately.

When I worked with my young dog, Laev, I taught stationary duration behaviours in quarters or eighths of seconds initially. I’ve worked with other dogs and taught them to tolerate a handler’s departure with the slight movement of one shoe. Once the dog has the idea and develops the necessary self-control, increments can be increased substantially, and the larger behaviours can be achieved (a three minute stay, for example). Always start small.

  • Provide an energy release. Most people don’t realize how stressful learning can be. Stress isn’t necessarily bad. In fact, sometimes it’s not distress, but eustress (a pleasant or curative stress). Stress does still take a toll on the dog, though. Many dogs indicate that they need a break by losing attention, wandering away, or sniffing. My favourite crazy dogs indicate fatigue by launching themselves at you or another attractive outlet, or by jumping, nipping and barking.

There has to be a way for the dog to dump energy, and it should almost always be through movement. Play tug, prompt a favourite active trick, or simply move about. Place this release behaviour on cue early in training and use it to release energy when the dog has been demonstrating a good deal of self-control or otherwise working hard.

If the dog explodes energetically outside of the cue, that means the training has continued too long or an unrealistic jump in criteria was attempted. Adjust the training and try again.

  • Use active behaviours. Passive behaviours are much more difficult for crazy dogs than active behaviours—the dogs have to contain themselves! Behaviours which involve movement allow a constant release of that mental energy and are less likely to lead to explosive outbursts. This is why a crazy dog can retrieve or search for much longer than he can practice his down stay, which seems to be a much less complicated behaviour.

The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behavior.

This is useful information for managing dogs in daily life. Is the dog stressed by an outside influence, perhaps a stranger or a rude dog? Instead of "sit and watch," as many teach, ask the dog for a heel, a spin, or a leaping target. The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behaviour.

Is your crazy dog too enthusiastic at the door? Instead of teaching "sit" to greet, which is very tough for these dogs, teach the dog to fetch a toy and bring it to the new arrival, holding it in his mouth as he is petted. This gives the dog a place to channel his energy (his jaws) while also preventing mouthing or licking.

  • Be proactive. The problem with crazy dogs is that they are faster than humans, mentally as well as physically. By the time you realize you’ve encountered a challenge, your dog might have evaluated several behavioural options and settled on what makes the most sense to her—something you probably do not want!

At the educated end of the leash, your job is to instruct the dog about what will pay off best — well before that scenario arises. Dogs load energy too quickly to interrupt them once they’re reacting (although they can learn that later). Catch them before they lose their focus.

In the end, crazy dogs show some of the most dramatic transformations, from happy, brash, and crashing maniacs to happy, enthusiastic, and focused partners. That’s reinforcing to all of us.

About the author

Laura VanArendonk Baugh, CPDT, KPACTP, started playing with animals at an early age and never grew out of it. She owns Canines In Action, Inc. in Indianapolis, where she lives with her tolerant husband and three dogs. Laura is also a Karen Pryor Academy faculty member.

Thanks to Laura, Karen Pryor and www.clickertraining.com Go to this website for many more interesting articles.

One job of a teacher is to balance the student between bold and shy,
between respectful and trusting.
If you don’t want a willing partner, don’t clicker train.
Never allow other people to set your priorities

One full Saturday (9:30 – 4:30) then 5 Saturday Mornings: 9:30 to 12:00

DATES:         Starts July 30th

VENUE:        Sandown – Johannesburg

BOOK:           Eugenie at eugenie@ttouch.co.za or phone 011 884 3156 for more info.

COST:            R1600: this includes the cost of the 6 week class, notes, treat bag, target  
                        stick  and a clicker                    

If you have always wanted to learn a method of training that doesn’t need aversive to be effective, then join us for a Clicker Experience! Although Operant Conditioning and the Clicker have been around for many years, especially in the Marine World and in training many species of animals for film, it’s only in the last 10 years that it has started to become Mainstream in the Dog Training World. Here is your chance to catch up!

Clicker Training is basically about re-enforcing Behaviour that you want. It works on the principles of giving reward for correct behaviour rather than using corrections and aversives for unwanted behaviour. As a result, you can establish true respect from your dog without fear. It’s fun to do, the dogs love it and therefore gain in confidence and you can finally understand why they do the things they do and how your Behaviour and actions influence them daily!

NOTE: An aversive is anything the dog doesn’t like! So if you yell at your dog and it likes the attention, it might actually be a reward!

 If you are a Trainer, are interested in being a Trainer, or just are a dog owner who wants to understand more, then this might be the class for you!

Clicker training is contract training. You get what you want,
then the dog gets what she wants.
Control the resources or sell the dog and take up knitting

Once your puppy has received the proper vaccinations, it’s time to explore and enjoy the great outdoors and to continue socialization in puppy classes, dog parks and dog walks. Make sure to incorporate training into all of your puppy’s favourite activities; train your puppy on walks, in the car and in the park.

The most urgent priority is to continue socializing your puppy to a wide variety of experiences and people, especially children, men, and strangers. Well-socialized puppies grow up to be wonderful companions, whereas antisocial dogs are difficult, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. Your puppy needs to learn to enjoy the company of all people and to enjoy being handled by all people, especially children and strangers.

The most important priority is that your puppy learns to perfect reliable bite inhibition and develops a soft mouth before he is eighteen weeks old. Whenever a dog bites a person or fights with another dog, the seriousness of the problem depends on the seriousness of the injury. Hence, the ease and success of retraining depends almost entirely on the dog’s degree of bite inhibition. The reliability of your dog’s bite inhibition determines whether you have a minor problem which may be easily corrected with a few safe, basic training exercises, or whether you have a serious and potentially dangerous problem which is going to be extremely difficult to resolve.

In a perfect world, you will successfully socialize your puppy so that he thoroughly enjoys the company and actions of all people, all dogs, and all animals. More realistically, though, accidents happen. Someone accidentally shuts the dog’s tail in the car door. Someone runs to answer the telephone and accidentally treads on a sleeping dog’s leg. A child runs and trips and falls on top of the dog while he is gnawing on a bone. When dogs are hurt or startled, their natural response is to snap, lunge, and even bite. Even wonderfully friendly dogs may feel inclined to protect or defend themselves when picked on by other dogs and people.

For example, when hurt or frightened a dog may snap and lunge at a person. But if a dog has well-established bite inhibition it is unlikely his teeth will even touch the skin. Or if there is skin contact, it is unlikely that the teeth will break the skin. The dog has caused no damage. On the other hand, if the dog has inadequate bite inhibition and his teeth puncture the skin, then you have a serious situation which may be difficult and time-consuming to resolve.

Similarly, dogs with well-established bite inhibition never cause damage when fighting with other dogs. The problem is minor because your dog is simply squabbling in a socially acceptable manner. On the other hand, if your dog ever hurts another dog or another animal, you have a major problem and resolution is unlikely.

Bite inhibition must be established in puppyhood, before eighteen weeks of age, since it is difficult to instil bite inhibition in an adolescent or adult dog. Learning the skills and techniques to ensure your puppy develops a reliable bite inhibition and an ultra-soft mouth is the primary reason for you to attend off-leash puppy classes. Your puppy needs to play with other puppies. Playing with adult dogs at home or in the park is simply not sufficient.

The most enjoyable priority of dog ownership is to accustom your well-socialized, soft-mouthed puppy to the world at large and prevent the development of predictable adolescent problems, thus assuring that he remains well-socialized and soft-mouthed. Remember, your dog will only remain sociable if he continues meeting and greeting unfamiliar people and unfamiliar dogs every day.

Meeting the same people and dogs over and over is not sufficient. You want your dog to practice the art of meeting and getting along with strangers, not simply getting along with old friends. Consequently, regular walks with your dog are as essential as they are enjoyable.

Your life is about to change. You are about to enjoy all the joys of dog ownership — long, energetic, or relaxing walks, trips in the car, afternoons in the dog park, picnics on the beach, plus so many enjoyable organized doggy activities.

Adapted from BEFORE You Get Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar 

©2006 Ian Dunbar

With kind permission from Ian and www.DogStarDaily.com

8a) Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

õ  Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove: Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za   

õ  Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

õ  Bryanston, Puppy 1&2, Classes Wednesday evening & Saturday afternoon. Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or niki@thinkingpets.com

õ  Cape Town, Bellville; Puppy Socialization Saturday afternoons, call Debbie on 083 992-8767 or email Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net 

õ  Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends.  Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

õ  Durbanville: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ  Gordon’s Bay: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. On-going: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 856 5886 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ  Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, Every Sunday; contact Ilze van der Walt:

õ  zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

õ  Hermanus, Gordon’s Bay, Somerset West: Puppy l & ll. Tel 082 490 1650 and e-mail janina@krugerphotography.co.za

õ  Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

õ  Oaklands, JHB: Puppy Socializing Sundays 9 & 10 a.m. Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ  Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses on Saturday afternoons R480 Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ  Pretoria – Lynnwood Glen, Puppy classes for pups until 16 weeks and Basic obedience classes (using clicker training) for dogs 16 weeks and older.  Contact Anelize 079 272 4595 or Manuela 076 427 9166

It isn't about whispering. It's about speaking clearly with your body and mind, and then listening to the answers.
Teach the animal to target.

It is not my job to control the animal. It is the animal's job to control herself.
It is my job to put the animal in a situation where she can learn what I want her to know as quickly and easily as possible.


by Scotty Valadao Canine Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA™) 

TTouch Practitioner

www.friendsofthedog.co.zafor all you want to know about your dog for free!

Offering a home to an adult shelter dog, is to me at least, one of the most rewarding experiences that a person can have. Not only have you got yourself a wonderful new companion, you have taken a dog from a stressful situation, and perhaps even saved it from an untimely end, and I have nothing but utter admiration for those that take this route. However, are you really prepared for this new arrival?

When we take a pup into our homes, we are presented with a clean slate, and it is how we interact, socialize and train that pup which will produce the end result. Yes, there is always the aspect of nature (personality, genetics, etc.) interfering in our nurturing attempts, but overall the possibility of a successful outcome is high if we do our side of things in the correct manner.

An adolescent or adult shelter dog is a totally different kettle of fish, as the saying goes. The dog may have ended up in a shelter due to its owners relocating, downsizing etc, but so often the dogs I have worked with that were rescue dogs, ended up in the shelter due to a myriad of behavioural problems. What makes this especially sad is that if the owners had more knowledge of their dogs and how to handle them, so many of these abandoned dogs would have become well behaved members of the family rather than end up as a statistic. This is one of the main reasons that I decided to create the website, Friends of the Dog – to give people the knowledge they required.

My own experience of working with a shelter dog is that when it first comes to the new home there is what I refer to as the ‘twilight period’. This is a time period of approximately 3 weeks wherein the dog seems to settle well, is reasonably well behaved and the behaviours that caused  it ending up in a shelter seem to either be put ‘on hold’ or have disappeared altogether. So often after the 3 week period is up, these dogs slowly and surely start to exhibit the unacceptable behaviours that ended them in the shelter in the first place, and this is when the trouble starts occurring.

I believe that as we have the 16 week opportunity of teaching our new pups absolutely everything and anything we can think of, so too do we, as owners of rescue dogs, need to put as much effort into the initial few weeks/months that the dog is with us as possible, to make the transmission easier and reduce the chances of problem behaviours occurring.

If we bear in mind that this dog has already had its own experiences, some of which may not have been pleasant, has ‘learned’ behaviours, often developed to cope with its previous home, is definitely traumatized to some degree by being in the shelter, then we can look at the dog with a new appreciation and understanding.

I am really not trying to put anybody off adopting a rescue dog, rather that if they have a deeper understanding of what to do, and what not to do, the chances of the dog remaining in the home and becoming a well loved, well behaved member of the home will be that much better.

So, what do we do?

There are a number of things that we can do, starting with the TTouch below and I have allocated a short section to each of the other topics:-


When, after a session of TTouch, a dog that a short while ago, had been exhibiting fear behaviour, or jumping up, barking, chasing its tails etc, suddenly goes limp, emits deep sighs and I see the body start to relax, the absolute magic of this simple modality never seems to amaze me, and I know a barrier has been crossed.

This is the beginning of a wonderful bond being developed between you and your new dog. So many rescue dogs have received punishment in the way of the previous owner being ‘heavy handed’ or handled roughly, and this may be one of the first times in its life that a dog has been touched by a hand of  love, rather than a hand of anger or disdain. And, not only are you touching with hands of love, the effects of TTouch have been shown to work on the nervous system, minimizing, or even stopping the release of adrenalin, balancing the serotonin (happy hormone) levels, affecting brain wave patterns etc. So what is actually occurring is that you are activating self-healing, lowering anxiety and apprehension and giving both of you a chance at a brand new start. Given that TTouch is accumulative, a few minutes of working on your new dog daily, will make your chances of success even better.

I don’t always show all my clients how to do TTouch, many of my consults are based on behaviour modification, but what I always do is to give them the two following simple tools to help them.

Noah’s March: Starting at the head area, slowly and with a pressure much like you would use to apply face cream (if any men reading this, ask the lady in your life to show you the pressure!), stroke the dog all around the head and neck area, paying a lot of attention to the mouth area, both  inside and out. The inside of the mouth is connected to the Limbic section of the brain which influences our emotions and is the seat of all learning. Do a lot of stroking on top of the muzzle, over the top of the head and between the ears as well. This area contains many acupressure points which help to calm a dog down. Continue with long strokes down the back, on the sides and the tummy area, down the legs, as in the diagram below. What many of us don’t realize is that just by doing these simple strokes, you are working on all the meridians and acupressure points and helping your dog in a profound manner.

If you have a dog that is sensitive in any given area, don’t ignore these areas, stroke next to them even softer and occasionally give a ‘mistaken’, very soft and light stroke over the sensitive area using the back of your hand rather than the palm (this is much less invasive). This way we are slowly desensitizing the dog to being touched in this area.

Don’t do too much too quickly. You may find that the dog will tolerate 2 or 3 strokes and then walk away – leave it! The dog will soon come back or you can try later, and do a bit more. Very often with dogs that are stressed, less is more!

Having a background of being a Louise Hay facilitator, I ask my clients, while performing this exercise, to say ‘every day in every way, you are getting better and better’. I am  not setting goals that cannot be achieved overnight, nor am I thinking, or saying ‘poor wee thing’, I am just affirming, over and over, that every day, in every way, progress is being made. I also ask my clients to finish off the strokes down the leg by imaging that all the stress, fear, unacceptable behaviours etc, is being taken down into Mother Earth to be disposed of.

Ear Work: The ear contains over 200 acupressure points, the tip of the ear being extremely important to help a dog (cat, human or any animal) from going into shock, and simply stroking along the ear in the manner below can go a long way to calm and relax a dog and can be easily achieved, plus the majority of dogs really love this.


Communication So many of the problems that occur between people and their dogs are simply the result of a lack of understanding between the different species. We have all been exposed to Calming and Stress signals over the last few years, but what about the signals we are exhibiting ourselves? Our dogs are absolute masters of observation of our own actions and facial gestures and how we use our bodies, and we can take advantage of this to help them adjust and cope.

Without going into too much detail here, simply having the attitude of being the leader and that the dog is safe with you will go a long way to help your new addition cope. When I am working with a nervous dog, I firstly relax my body and ensure that my breathing is regular and calm. I can be a Duracell bunny myself, but when I work with a dog, this all changes. I will approach the dog from a relaxed stance, offering no threat and showing that I am in control, and even making use of Calming Signals if I feel they are necessary. In my mind I project an aura of peace and calm around me and this alone can have a profound effect on the outcome.

My next step is to give the owner the tools of good communication. So often we tell not just our kids, ‘NO’, we also tell our dogs the same thing, but what are they meant to do instead? As easy as a child will understand that it can’t sit on the sofa because you have just washed it, a dog will not understand. It is absolutely impossible to tell a dog to do nothing, you have to give them something different to do (sit instead of jump up) or let them know what behaviour makes you happy. A dog, especially a dog deprived of attention, is an absolute glutton for attention, and even negative attention, in the way of us shouting and screaming can be deemed attention to an attention deficient dog.

In order to achieve this, you put in place the Non-Reward Marker, otherwise known as the NRM. The use of the NRM is wonderful, as by using a cue such as ‘uhuh’ you are being consistent with what you don’t want. This one simple word can be used in a soft gentle tone to indicate to your dog that you don’t like the way it sat squinty in front of you when training, or at the top of your voice when your sweet little dog suddenly turned into a hunter and decided to attack the cat from next door.

Now, what is extremely important here is not just let your dog know what you don’t want – tell it what you do want! How? Simply saying ‘good girl/boy’ when the dog stops the undesirable behaviour. The dog then thinks “ok, got it – uhuh means no, but I am rewarded with attention ‘good dog’ when I stop’. Now how easy is that – you have opened up lines of communication in such an easy manner!

I do suggest using a word such as ‘uhuh’, because ‘no’ could well have been used over and over and not achieved the desired result and has become white noise to the dog. What is important however is that this new cue is to be used consistently, by all members of the family and remember to praise the dog the second the undesirable behavior stops. Doing it only spasmodically will only achieve confusion for the dog.

Human/Canine pack hierarchy

There are a lot of discussions going on in the canine profession as to the effectiveness of pack hierarchy and exercises to reduce rank, but to my mind it is only logical that as a company, school or family will have a hierarchy of authority so to should there be some sort of hierarchy when dealing with our dogs. So who should be in charge? Us, the owners and every member of the family. When we bring dogs into our lives we are dealing with a combined human/canine pack and if every person knows their place and part within, it leads to good communication and understanding. We put House Rules in place for your children, why not for our dogs?

Of course there will always be a degree of dissention, that is always the norm, as in families, but if basic House Rules are laid down and adhered too, the process will be so much easier and any upsets dealt with. It is impossible in an article such as this to cover all the House Rules, but if you just start with a ‘work to earn’ system and some basic House Rules, the dog will learn its place and the transition will be easier. Examples of these are as follows:-

v  Work to earn – as you and I need to work to earn our living, so too should our dogs. Teach the dog to sit to be greeted or fed, to sit and wait as you open a door, to sit and wait before getting out the car, going for a walk etc. With our ten fingers we control just about every aspect of our dog’s lives, so take advantage of this and make it work for you and your interaction with your dog.

v  Ignore all demanding behaviour – dogs are absolutely geniuses when getting our attention! How often have you had a ball popped gently on your lap and before you realize what you are doing you throw it? How often has a beautiful head, with soft adoring eyes placed itself on your knees when you are sitting down and you just can’t help stroke it? Get the picture??

Now I am not saying ignore your dogs all the time, but giving attention on your terms will go a long way to avoiding problems. If your dog is pestering you for attention, simply ignore the dog – not looking at it, talking or touching and even using your body to indicate your disproval – turn your body away and avoid eye contact. When the dog has given up and gone to lie somewhere else, by all means call your dog and give it the attention you want – but on your terms! On this point be careful – if you always call your dog back after 5 minutes, your dog will become a ‘clock watcher’ and start to anticipate your calling, so vary the time period.

Exercise and Stimulation

Even though you may have a large garden, to a dog this is a very restricted area as they live via their noses, and need the additional stimulation that a walk entails as their sense of smell is in the region of 45 times more developed than us humans. I read an article several years ago wherein it was estimated that 15 minutes of mental stimulation was the equivalent of an hour’s physical exercise for a dog.

Additionally, if a dog does not get regular walks, the only thing it has to look forward to is feeding and their people coming home and it is often at times like this that latent behaviour issues will arise, especially in a multi-dog home.

Assistance If you feel that a problem with your dog is getting out of control – call for help! There is nothing wrong with getting in a professional to help you out. This does not show any weakness on your part, rather that you are a committed, caring owner. Think about it, you wouldn’t go and teach yourselves to Scuba dive, you would get the assistance you need to become proficient.

There are no hard and fast rules as to when to call in a professional and every person’s ideas of what is out of hand will be different, but a good rule of thumb is when you feel you can’t cope, if there is reactive behaviour, or an excess or lack of what you consider normal behaviour, then get help.

Good luck!


How to Treat Dog Kennel Cough

Kennel cough (canine infectious tracheobronchitis) is a disease that affects the trachea lining, thereby causing minor irritation. A dog with this disease coughs frequently, usually every few minutes and all throughout the day. Although kennel cough is one of the most common infectious diseases among dogs, most cases of kennel cough are minor. Kennel cough tends to disappear on its own after a week or two.

Its Causes

An airborne virus or bacteria is what cause kennel cough, the most common of which is a bacteria known as bordatella bronchiseptica. In order to become infected with the disease, a dog will need to inhale several types of bacteria or virus. Additionally, dogs often contract kennel cough wherever there is a large gathering of dogs, like in kennels or dog shows.

Its Symptoms

Your dog may have kennel cough if your dog sounds like it is trying to clear its throat whenever it coughs. If you also notice your dog coughing whenever it is exercising or doing some other physical activity, your dog may have kennel cough. The symptoms of kennel cough typically appear a few weeks after your dog has been exposed to other dogs with kennel cough or has inhaled the disease-causing virus or bacteria. If your dog’s coughing is severe, your dog may cough continuously and even throw up food or mucus. Take note of the colour of the mucus, as its colour will indicate the severity of your dog’s condition. White mucus is not so severe while green mucus is more serious. If your dog’s coughs are accompanied by green mucus, take your dog to the veterinarian right away.

Diagnosing Kennel Cough

To diagnose if your dog indeed has kennel cough, the veterinarian will try to make your dog cough by rubbing its larynx. If your dog’s coughs are accompanied by mucus, the veterinarian will order more tests such as an x-ray so he can determine if the cough is the result of pneumonia or distemper.

Editor’s Note: We found a short video clip that let’s you hear the sound. Had I listened to this, I would have known immediately what it was! http://www.kennelcoughhelp.com/kennel-cough-video.php

Kennel Cough Home Treatment

To prevent your dog from developing kennel cough, you will need to strengthen your dog’s immune system. There are a number of homeopathic remedies you can try to keep your dog free from kennel cough. You can get this information online or by going to the veterinarian and local pet store. For dogs that already have kennel cough, there are homeopathic treatments that make use of natural ingredients that are known for treating kennel cough. These remedies are believed to reduce the mucus as well as the coughing. Two of these homeopathic ingredients are Plantago lanceolata, an herbal remedy used or expelling mucus, and Bryonia C6, which is known to clear mucus or soothe dry membranes.

Editor’s Note: Dr. Garry Eckersley has a homeopathic remedy called Nosode 30 CH. You can access this by phoning 011 702 1957.

You can also give cough suppressant if your dog is coughing frequently or if your dog’s coughing is interfering with your dog’s and your family’s sleep. You can give your dog an antibiotic to prevent secondary infections from developing. However, do not do give your dog antibiotic if its appetite is normal and it is not coughing so frequently. The best  recourse in this case is to simply wait for the disease to run its course. Kennel cough goes away by itself if it is only minor or moderate, in which case you shouldn’t need to give your dog treatment. But if your dog’s coughing lasts for more than 10 days, take your dog to the veterinarian and ask for his airways or lungs checked.

Treatment for Puppies with Kennel Cough

If your puppy develops kennel cough, take it to the veterinarian. The veterinarian will likely prescribe azithromycin, a relatively new antibiotic that is known to effectively treat kennel cough. You can try the two home remedies below if your puppy has kennel cough. You can also try it on your adult dog.

  • Give your dog Pediatric Robitussin four times a day. This home remedy is safe to use for puppies as young as two years old. If the treatment does not work on your puppy, start your puppy on antibiotics.

  • Place your puppy in the bathroom and vaporize it with Vicks for about 20 minutes. Do this two times a day for 4 to 5 days. If your puppy’s coughs are accompanied by green mucus, take your puppy to the veterinarian.

Kennel Cough Vaccine

You can have your dog vaccinated but keep in mind that kennel cough vaccines are not completely effective. Kennel cough vaccines are typically recommended for dogs that regularly appear in dog shows or are often in a kennel. Some dogs tend to become resistant to kennel cough once they catch and recover from the disease.

Thanks to http://www.dogbreedersgallery.co.za/ for this article

Rewards are defined by the student, not the teacher.
Learning is defined by the student, not the teacher.
Work where the animal is, not where you expect her to be or where she "should" be

If this animal is mine, I am the one who is responsible for what happens to her.
If this animal is mine, I am the one who is in charge of what happens to her.
When the student is ready, the teacher appears. Nobody loves a missionary

WE had our first experience of kennel cough recently. It seems that when Harley went in for his neutering op, he picked up Kennel Cough which has been going around town. 10 days later, he started to sound like he was trying to throw something up. I thought perhaps he had swallowed something he shouldn’t, although he doesn’t typically do this.

Off to the Vet we went and after a barrage of tests, we still didn’t know what was wrong. He then started throwing up copious amounts of white foamy liquid and needless to say I got quite a fright. Harley spent the night at the Vet and came home with meds, but was still coughing. We (or I should say the Vet) finally concluded that he had contracted kennel cough. When a week later Shanti had it, we were sure.

Today if I hear that type of cough I’ll know what it is, but as it was my first experience, and I was really ignorant of this illness. Fortunately kennel cough isn’t usually dangerous; however it can be in certain circumstances, which is why we want to be informed of common illnesses our pets can contract. I have found a great website that shows you a variety of dogs with kennel cough and how they sound. Go to http://www.kennelcoughhelp.com/kennel-cough-video.php and listen to the different sounds dogs make with kennel cough. Had I listened before, I would have known why Harley was suffering!

I still find cats a bit of a mystery. For some reason, Shadow has recently become braver with the dogs and is starting to sleep more nights in the bedroom with me and the dogs. The truly unusual thing however, is that she has actually jumped on the bed with both dogs already lying there. Now this is unheard of in her past and it’s interesting to watch her become braver bit by bit. Hmmm, wonder if a bit of TTouch has anything to do with this? J


Self-control reduces fear and stress.
Work for five minutes, then quit. Leave the animal interested in you coming back.
The leash is to keep the animal from getting hit by a truck, not to control, punish or teach.

Dear Mari

It was wonderful to meet you, Eugenie and all the other TTouch people. Thank you for the opportunity to be part of the show – sorry that my Lilly, who is usually such a busy dog, more or less froze! 

Nevertheless I feel so lucky to have seen TTouch up close, and to watch Debbie’s expert hands on Lilly was very special. I learned a lot about the pressure of the touch, about working on ears, and on mouths…..and the possibility of doing clicker training with Lilly.

It was altogether a valuable experience for me – and will be for Lilly in the long run too. Please convey my appreciation to everyone.

Kind regards



Rawhide Causes Blockage in Oesophagus

Hello Dear Eugenie,

Just heard from my Sister that my Niece always gave her dog those animal hide chewy things and then she noticed that Blaze didn’t look that well and wasn’t eating.  Took the beloved to the Vet and they discovered one of these animal hide things blocking the oesophagus ... just terrible. 

The Vet had to operate and enter through the rib cage to extract this thing. Cost R17, 000!  Worth it for a loved family member (as our dogs and cats are) - so please would you just let everyone on your mailing list know just how dangerous these raw hides are.

Love always ~ Fil


Hero Dog Buster – Norwood, NJ

Posted by Victoria Stilwell - 05/03/11 at 06:05:31 pm -

Here is the amazing story of a little dog that performed an enormous deed; he saved the life of his owner. Buster is an Emerging

Hero with a large tale to tell - well, his owner tells it for him.

Our Hero Buster came into our lives when my husband started a job that required him to travel. I looked for a puppy and found the best friend ever. Soon after Buster came into our lives my husband became very sick. After multiple hospital stays and surgeries, he came home from the hospital. Buster was 10 months old at the time.

One night, my husband was sleeping downstairs in our living room; he was unable to use the stairs after his operation. Buster and I were sleeping upstairs and we were having a terrible ice storm that night.

Buster woke me up barking. That wasn’t like him. He’s not a barker. I thought he may have heard a snow plow outside, but I realized he wasn’t barking at the window, he was barking at the bedroom doorway. I decided since I was awake I would check on my husband. It was a good thing I did; when we got downstairs my husband was unconscious on the floor. He had gotten up and blacked out. He hit his face on a piece of furniture and cut his face.

When I got him to the hospital his blood pressure was 55/30. The doctors said that if I hadn’t found him when I did he very likely would have stroked out and possibly died. If it wasn’t for Buster I never would have gone down to check on my husband, I didn’t hear him fall but Buster did. My husband thanks Buster every day for saving his life. He’s my husband’s HERO!!

Plan once, train twice. Or plan twice, train once. The choice is yours.
Keep records that will mean something to you.
Break it down. The smaller the behaviour you're teaching,
the greater your chance of success.

a.      Book of the Month: How to right a dog gone wrong – Pamela S. Dennison

Review by TTouch Practitioner Niki Elliott

Highly recommend to anyone starting out with training adult dogs or for any dog owner who has an aggressive dog and just doesn’t know what to do.

Pamela Dennison explains Operant Conditioning, Counter Conditioning, Desensitization and the whole mine field of punishment in really simple terms. She enlightens the reader on how dog’s learn, which is something not many dog owners or trainers actually understand. Then she goes on to give really simple solutions through basic positive reinforcement training that will help both owners and trainers to "right a dog gone wrong".

Book available from Pet’s Publications at R190.00, Contact Azeht on zet@doglover.com

b.      Website of the Month: http://www.vetinfo.com/dogindex.html - this site has hundreds of articles on any possible Vet question. And if it doesn’t have your answer, you can ask a Vet on line. Of course, that costs a bit, but the Vet will answer any and all questions you throw his way for as long as it takes.

An amazing site of all the Health info you ever wished you had for your pet.  An Encyclopedia of Canine Veterinary Medical Information –.

c.       Interesting Links

a.       http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ib9cgxl9LJE – Sarah Fisher with a short into to TTouch

b.     YouTube - Ttouch wRap – a “must see/hear”!
TTouch wRap written and recorded by Claudette Evans feat. Busby’s adventures at Tilley Farm learning all about Ttouch and it’s benefits for creatures large ...

c.      http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2011/01/25/a-french-bulldog-puppy-favorite-new-toy.aspx- A bulldog puppy vs. the door jammer!

d.    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGeKSiCQkPw&feature=player_profilepage - Talking animals – a bit of fun!

WHY is not nearly as important as WHAT. Teach yourself to see what the dog is doing rather than worrying about why he does it.
WHY is not nearly as important as HOW. Teach yourself to see how the dog is being rewarded for a behaviour you don't want. Then you’ll be able to see how to stop the behaviour.
13.   EVENTS

Program for Husky Rescue Golf day 2011 – ERPM

Date:  27 May 2011

To book your 4-ball, for R 2000 all inclusive, email Kim kim@huskyrescue.co.za

Players and Sponsors please call or email Kim on 08257584896 kim@huskyrescue.co.za

For golf carts or caddies please hire from the Pro shop at the club, Graeme at graeme@erpmgc.co.za

Visit our web site at www.huskyrescue.co.za

PROGRAM FOR THE HUSKY RESCUE 2011 GOLF DAY – ERPM BOKSBURG rated in the top 50 best courses in South Africa!!

Venue: ERPM, East Rand Golf Club, Pretoria Road, Boksburg West


The SOS Save our Shelters Fundraiser Bash!

Location         Cafe Culture, in the Pineslopes Shopping Centre, off Witkoppen Road, Fourways, Johannesburg, South Africa 

Date:  Saturday, May 28 from 4:00 pm to 11:30 pm

More Info       PAWS R US Presents “SAVE OUR SHELTERS!” (SOS)

Email us to pawsrus@gmail.co.za 

On behalf of all our furry friends, we invite you to an evening filled with DOGGONE good entertainment and MOUTH-WATERING prizes!

Tickets for a full night’s entertainment only R120 per person!  (excl food & refreshments)



Thinking Pets - Breed Talk in June 2011

The topics will include:

·         Breeders - how to find the better ones 

·         How to choose a healthy puppy 

·         Suitability for type of home or family

·         Problems  you might encounter

·         History of the Breed

Breed Talk – Herding Breeds

Date: 18 June 2011

Time: 3pm – 5pm (1 hour talk and 1 hour for Q&A)

Venue: The ThinkingPets Behaviour Practice

Cost: R50 per person

Please RSVP to Lindi Tel: 0114630296 or Mobile:  0820499209




In association with Healthy Living Herbs

When: Module 1: Saturday 4th June and Module 2: Sunday 5th June 2011

Where: Doonholm Nursery, Plot 265, Summit Road, Bridle Park, Midrand

Time: 9:00am – 4:00pm

Cost: R750 (all inclusive – lunch, teas, herb seedlings, wound cream and practical materials, course notes)


Stop & think.
Stop & evaluate.
Stop & re-evaluate. Stop & get out of the situation.
Stop & renegotiate.
Stop & change SOMETHING.
Give the animal a chance to think.
Explain clearly and then let her sleep on it.


Neutered, tan, male found in Southern Suburbs, CT. Has scars on hind limb, seems to be from a loving home and we are desperately trying to find his owners. Please circulate - I am trying to get the guardians to keep him as long as they are able but it seems he will be moved to a shelter ASAP. Contact Arlene Orrie on 082 665 8813.

Maybe you can help – two mature cats looking for new home

Sadly we have to say goodbye to two of our beloved cats, Frodo (8, boy) and Haggis (7, girl).  They are in good health.

They live in Randburg near Strydom Park. Please contact Hagen Nieberding on 082.823.1516

Abby missing from Brits vet after vehicle theft

She was wearing a red body harness with little white flowers on it when she disappeared. She is red blond with a white chest and white bits on her paws. She has a bit of an under bite. She answers to the names Abby, Abbykins, Snoopy, anything said affectionately. You’ll know it’s she as soon as she starts licking you as she loves that. Please phone me on 076 455 0322 or 084 665 1890. If possible, pick her up and keep her safe. I will collect her wherever she is.  Salome Mulder

Dixie looking for her mom 

Hi everyone, Dixie, my black cat jumped out of a car en route from Moreleta Park to Annlin, so she could be anywhere between these two points. (She jumped out at the corner of Braam Pretorius and Lavender by accidentally stepping on the button that lets the window down.) If you have any news about her, please mail Cristel at the above address, or call her at 082 329 3975 or 082 820 4311.

SASHA - X German Shepherd and ROXY - X Siberian Husky  - (DURBAN) are urgently looking for a loving family home. Their owners have already located to smaller premises and cannot take them with. They are both 7 years old.  Do not have to go together. Please contact Ardehl on 084-8468570 or (w) 031-2683163 ardehl.graham@lexisnexis.co.za

Please help Sarah find a good home She is a wire-haired terrier cross and smaller than medium breed - like a long-legged fox terrier size dog.  She is at The Dawson Kennels in Benoni at the moment. She could really be someone’s baby and is also a very alert and good watchdog. Ilana Liebenberg on E-mail: liebenberg.ilana@gmail.com 

Two Kitties need help.

Alice and Rosie need a new home. They are a pair of Burmese Cats, spayed, vaccinated and de-wormed, 2yr old sisters. I would like to re-home them together as they have never been apart. Please try not to mention this in front of Maia or Meera. I do not want to tell them until I know where the cats will be going. Contact Jaqueline Luksmidas 0824931472 | t: 0118800511

Sheba - Sweet Princess In Search Of Her Fairytale Ending – Jhb Sweet female XBreed, 2 years old, looking for a good home.  She is very playfull and very friendly.  Contact Doreen by 082 458 9163 or Doreen.higgs@gmail.com.

Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Practitioner III for Companion Animal 

PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031

Tel: 011 884-3156

Fax: 011 783 1515

Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za

Look for the startle.
“My dog won’t...” and “My dog can’t...” should be followed either by an alarm bell
or a training plan.
Never go for duration with a really hungry puppy.
It's all tricks, relax.
Sit back and enjoy the ride
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.