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  Newsletter:
  MAY 2010, TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER
1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS - 5-DAY TTEAM WITH ROBYN HOOD OCTOBER 22-26, 2010
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS / CAT WORKSHOPS
5.   TTOUCH TIPS: GETTING YOUR DOGS READY FOR THE VUVUZELAS! BY EUGENIE CHOPIN
6.   CLICKER TIPS: SCIENCE-BASED DOG TRAINING (WITH FEELING)
7.   CLICKER CLASSES -TBA
8.   PUPPIES: CLASSICAL CONDITIONING
9.   BEHAVIOUR / HEALTH
10.   SHANTI UPDATE: INOCULATIONS & SWIMMING IN THE COLD
11.   YOUR LETTERS
12.   ODDS AND ENDS
13.   EVENTS
14.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES - – PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED
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1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER

Hello TTouch Friends!

I hope you are all gearing up for the World Cup! I have 5 guests coming from the USA - My nephew, Arthur and 4 of his Soccer mates. I have just found out that one of the 2 Fan Fest Screens here in JHB is going to be around the corner from us, so I’m not sure whether to just party all month or leave town. Since I’ll be having house guests, I’m guessing that “Party” will be the choice!

As I write this, I am sitting on my Balcony at Kiara Lodge, looking at a magnificent vista of the Maluti Mountains entering into the Golden Gate National Park. I feel positively blessed to be here in this beautiful weather and peaceful surroundings. And of course, I needed the break after the hectic ness of the recent trainings! (Wonder if they have space during the world cup?)

View from Eugenie’s Balcony at Kiara Lodge

As most of you know, we had Sarah Fisher here teaching booked out trainings in April. It was super to have her back again and being so inspirational for our Practitioners and students. YOU WILL HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE INSPIRED AS WELL! What do I mean? We had Carte Blanche filming while she was here, so watch for the notice we’ll be sending about the program.

Ashleigh Southwood, Bonnie & Sarah Fisher

Now some BIG NEWS: We are opening up the Companion animal’s trainings this time, so that you can start at any one of the sessions! This is the way they organize the trainings in England and Europe as well as the way our horse trainings have been organized for years. It’s really because the interest in the Practitioner Training Program has been so huge that we are adding extra trainings and don’t want people to have to wait 2 or 3 years to get into the program.

What does this mean to those of you who wanted to start the new training last year? - That you are welcome to join us in October or even March/April next year. The policy is if you pay a deposit, you’ll be booked, so first come, first serve.

I would like to congratulate new Practitioners Celeste Watcham, Sabrina Smart and Candi Moon for Companion Animals; and Lynn Selby and Elsabe Potgieter for horses! For those living in Natal, you now have a Practitioner for horses in Lynn, so look her up on the Practitioner page if you want to connect. Natal now also has a Practitioner 2 for Companion Animals in Doreen Stapelberg!

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Practitioner 3 for Companion Animals

eugenie@ttouch.co.za

www.ttouch.co.za



Guidelines for Cats
Food
In order to get the energy to sleep, play, and hamper, a cat must eat. Eating, however, is only half the fun. The other half is getting the food. Cats have two ways to obtain food: convincing a human you are starving to death and must be fed now; and hunting for it oneself. The following are guidelines for getting fed.
 When the humans are eating, make sure you leave the tip of your tail in their dishes when they are not looking.
 Never eat food from your own bowl if you can steal some from the table. Never drink from your own water bowl if a human's glass is full enough to drink from.
 Should you catch something of your own outside, it is only polite to attempt to get to know it. Be insistent. Your food will usually not be so polite and try to leave.
 Table scraps are delicacies with which the humans are unfortunately unwilling to readily part. It is beneath the dignity of a cat to beg outright for food as lower forms of life such as dogs will, but several techniques exist for ensuring that the humans don't forget you exist. These include, but are not limited to: jumping onto the lap of the "softest" human and purring loudly; lying down in the doorway between the dining room and the kitchen, the "direct stare", and twining around people's legs as they sit and eat while meowing plaintively.
 
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALS

October 6- 11 or October 14-19, 2010

TTACT IV is opening up to new entrants in October

As you may have read in Eugenie’s letter above. The TTACT program is changing format somewhat by allowing new people to start in any session. This goes along with the practice used in Canada and the UK. We have been truly inspired by the number of people interested in this program and don’t want you to have to wait for 2 or 3 years to join us.

DATE:            October 6- 11 or October 14-19, 2010

VENUE:        Broshacarm Kennels - Midrand

COST:            +/- R4200

CONTACT: Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za

SESSION 4: March 31- April 5; and March 23-28 (if needed)



2. Guidelines for Cats
Sleeping
As mentioned above, in order to have enough energy for playing, a cat must get plenty of sleep. It is generally not difficult to find a comfortable place to curl up. Any place a human likes to sit is good, especially if it contrasts with your fur color. If it's in a sunbeam or near a heating duct or radiator, so much the better. Of course, good places also exist outdoors, but have the disadvantages of being seasonal and dependent on current and previous weather conditions such as rain. Open windows are a good compromise.
 
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS - 5-DAY TTEAM WITH ROBYN HOOD OCTOBER 22-26, 2010

(Sorry, folks, but this Clinic is sold out. However, if there are enough of you interested, we may schedule a second TTEAM training, so let us know ASAP

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How To Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn with out fear.

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury- related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination

VENUE

HORSE

DATE

COST

CONTACT

Donnybrook Stables Johannesburg

5 day TTEAM with Robyn Hood

22-26 October 2010

                           +/- R4000

Lindy equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577

59 Gazelle Road, Rispark

Gauteng

Fun Day at the Stud 

06 June

TBA

Lindy Dekker equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577 or Liesel 078 130 6712

4.   DOG WORKSHOPS / CAT WORKSHOPS
VENUE

DOG

DATE

COST

CONTACT

Bedfordview/ Edenvale/ Linksfield/ Orange Grove /Jhb

TTouch Resolving Problem behaviours & deepening relationship

30 May, 6 June, 13 June,

R525

Scotty Valadao  scotty@scottysdogs.co.za

011 882 2418 (h);

082 928 0102 (cell);

Pinelands Scout Hall

Cape Town

TTouch

Understand your dog

10-11 July

R700.00

Debbie Conradie

021 919 1991 or 083 992 8767 debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net  

Bryanston Sandton

Johannesburg

Introduction to TTOUCH for Dogs

19 June

R300

Nicky Lucka

lucka@absamail.co.za  

011 440 6417 (h);

083 408 1517 (cell)

Bryanston Sandton

2 day TTouch for Dogs

Aug. 28

Sat 8:30 - 13:30.

Sun 9:00 - 17:00

R700

Niki Elliott mailto:lucka@absamail.co.za  

082 451 0433

CATS

Table View Animal Hospital

Western Cape

Kitten Habituation Classes

6 weeks classes, Sat 11:30 – 12:30

R500 for 6 weeks course

Debbie Conradie

021 919 1991 or 083 992 8767 debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net

5.   TTOUCH TIPS: GETTING YOUR DOGS READY FOR THE VUVUZELAS! BY EUGENIE CHOPIN

Quick Note: For those of you who aren’t living in SA, a Vuvuzela is a type of horn that is a favourite noisemaker at sports events here is South Africa. It comes in different sizes, so will make different pitches and they can be VERY LOUD, when in the hands of an experienced Fan. It’s been said that some teams from overseas have found it difficult to concentrate on the game with so much noise going on…. J

I am guessing that the Vuvuzelas are going to bring about Dog reactions a bit like fireworks or Thunderstorms. And like fireworks, it might depend on how close it is. I was very excited to receive my first ever Vuvuzela at the end of the TTACT training in April as a gift from the class. Needless to say, I immediately wanted to try it out. Have you ever tried to blow a Vuvuzela? Not so easy! Nothing came out the first time and even then Harley wasn’t sure he liked it. What was this strange thing I had brought home and was blowing through? He and Shanti both were wary and I realized quickly that I would need to de-sensitise them to my Vuvuzela before the start of the World Cup.

I have just come back from my lovely Weeks Holiday in the mountains and I decided to use suppertime as a Vuvuzela Training time. So I dished up food for Harley and Shanti and took the bowls, my Vuvuzela and my clicker to the lounge. I decided to start pairing the Vuvuzela sound to the clicker & treats as both dogs find the click/treat to be very fun and satisfying. So here is more or less the sequence I used:

    1. Hold up the V. (will use V. for Vuvuzela), click and treat (C/T for short) – and the treat was part of their evening kibble)
    2. Hold the V. to my mouth, then C/T
    3. Blow into V. (no noise yet) and C/T.
    4. Do this a couple of  times.
      1. Might start with the V. a bit further away from the dogs if they react to it.
    5. Realize that Shanti is excited and has a tendency to bark at the V., so decide to lose the clicker and just pair food with the V.
      1. If Shanti barks, I don’t feed her, however I will feed Harley.
      2. Also took the V. a bit further away from Shanti and she handled it better.
    6. Occasionally I “accidentally” made a noise on the V. – good criteria rise, so I treated.
    7. Then tried to figure out what I was doing to make the noise…..and kept treating the dogs each time I blew on the V. – except if Shanti barked, then I only treated Harley. (Am now wondering how I should reward myself for making the noise….)
    8. Dogs now starting to enjoy the new game!
    9. Next I put the V really close to Shanti, and she (being the clicker savvy dog that she is) targeted the V. – so I used “yes” as a substitute for the clicker and gave her food.
    10. Tried Harley and he also nose targeted the V. but a bit more hesitantly.
    11. Did this with both dogs several times using the word Vuvuzela as I want them to recognize the object by name.
    12. Keep trying to make noise and treating until supper was finished.
It was a great start to our training! I hope by the time the games start I’ll be proficient on the Vuvuzela and the dogs will associate the sound with food so will be happy to hear the noise and come running. I also would like to be able to say “Find the Vuvuzela” and perhaps get one of them to fetch it for me. It will probably depend on how much time I spend on this as to whether I’m manage in a short time, but it’s a fun goal.

Of course, don’t forget all of your TTouch tools if you are anywhere near a stadium or even just a Soccer Party. Some of them are:

1.      Body wraps are super for noise issues. You can buy through the TTouch office, info@ttouch.co.za and you’ll find directions on how to use them on the website.

2.     Touch work can help lessen stress, so do gentle and SLOW touches if you know how – or even just try a few things on the website if you’d like.

3.     Doing groundwork or training with your dog can really help boost confidence so that when scary things happen, they have better coping skills.

4.     And of course, stay calm yourself. Don’t pamper or baby your dog, but calmly let them know that you’re there and they are safe. You might try to feed them some very yummy treats or even play a game if they are up to either of these things. If your dog is too frightened to do either of these things then you probably need a body wrap and some professional help.

5.     When in doubt phone a TTouch practitioner to come give you some tips BEFORE the noise starts! www.ttouch.co.za and go to the Practitioner page for someone in your area. We also have some new students looking for case studies, so give me a call on 011 884 3156 if you don’t find someone on the website.

Enjoy the Soccer, I know we will!

Note: On day 2 of the Vuvuzela training, Shanti was already starting to “fetch”
 the Vuvuzela – i.e. starting to put her mouth around it and hold. I can see that it’s going to be better with Harley to “shape” the target (Vuvuzela).

Shanti already “getting it” and in the spirit!

(Am just keeping off the SA Flag colours until we stop chewing it!)



Guidelines for Cats
Scratching Posts
It is advised that cats use any scratching post the humans may provide. They are very protective of what they think is their property and will object strongly if they catch you sharpening your claws on it. Being sneaky and doing it when they aren't around won't help, as they are very observant. If you are an outdoor kitty, trees are good. Sharpening your claws on a human is not recommended.
 
6.   CLICKER TIPS: SCIENCE-BASED DOG TRAINING (WITH FEELING)

The development of off-leash, puppy/adolescent, socialization and training classes caused a paradigm shift in dog training away from the on-leash, physical restraint/prompt/punish methods of competition/working training to whelp an entirely new field of Pet Dog Training. However, after nearly 30 years, pet dog training is in dire need of re-invention. Off-leash, science based techniques were unparalleled for 20 years or so but over the past decade, pet dog training has gone downhill.

Certainly, the fun factor and dog-friendliness of pet dog training has increased over the years, but criteria and standards have dropped dramatically. Many owners become frustrated with lack of success and so, seek help elsewhere — often adopting aversive techniques, thinking (erroneously) that physical domination and pain will be more effective. In reality, science-based training is effective regardless of the choice of training tool. However, few owners are being taught reliable verbal off-leash control without the continued need of training tools. Whereas it is easy for dog owners to find beginning lure/reward and beginning clicker training classes, seldom are they taught how to completely phase out training tools, such as lures, clickers, food rewards, collars and leashes. Hence, lures become bribes and compliance often becomes contingent on the owner having food lures and rewards, or the ability to physically restrain or punish.

Initial training appears to go well but then surprisingly quickly, without reliable off-leash control, everything falls apart during adolescence. Seemingly insignificant behavior problems of puppyhood become major reasons for surrender or abandonment.

Adolescent dogs become inattentive, distracted, anxious, fearful and maybe aggressive to other dogs and people, causing on-leash manners and off-leash reliability take a precipitous nosedive. Consequently, walks and romps in the park become less frequent, which impacts enormously on the dog’s quality of life.

All of these developmental problems are utterly predictable and quite easily preventable. Successful pet dog training is all about extremely early socialization and training, ongoing socialization and training and establishing off-leash reliability in order to adequately prepare puppies to successfully navigate adolescence. It’s all about adolescence,

As I see it there are four huge areas of concern that need to be addressed and resolved before science-based dog training reaches “tipping point” and is universally and permanently acknowledged, accepted and practiced by dog owners and trainers. These issues will be the focus of my seminar series this year and next.

The incredible opportunities of puppyhood are still largely wasted. Prevention is easier (and much quicker) than cure but we are still not preventing the major reasons for surrendering dogs to shelters, namely, house-soiling problems, destructive chewing, excessive barking and separation anxiety. Moreover, socialization is pitifully and scarily inadequate. We are not even coming close to preparing puppies for adolescence and successfully preventing fearfulness and aggression.

Temporary training tools have become permanent management tools. Few owners progress beyond the initial stages of science-based training and fail to phase out lures and prompts, or clicks and food rewards. Few owners achieve reliable off-leash verbal control without the continued need of training aids and especially for times when the dog is at a distance of distracted. Thus few owners learn how to control their dog when off-leash at home, on walks or in the park.

Computer-generated learning theory has many severe constraints when applied in dog training. Schedules of reinforcement and punishment need to be completely re-evaluated in terms of effectiveness and expediency in pet dog training. Consequences are binary — from the dog’s perspective, either things get better, or they get worse, yet far too many owners and trainers focus on how things got better or worse in terms of choice of training tool (praise, food, toys, reprimands, jerks, shocks, etc.), or psychological principle (positive/negative reinforcement/punishment).

Additionally, far too many trainers practice only half of binary feedback (reward-only or punishment-only). Teaching owners how to stop undesired behavior is essential, otherwise they will resort to aversive techniques. Undesired behavior may be effectively inhibited and eliminated without the use of aversive punishment.

Dog training is in danger of losing its soul. Far too many trainers have adopted impersonal, quantum consequences (clicks, treats, jerks and shocks) in lieu of verbal feedback. Trainers have become technicians, which although beneficial for refining timing or learning how to set criteria, lacks feeling when teaching people to develop relationships with their dogs. Just because computers had to dispense quantum kibble and shocks as consequential feedback does not mean that we need follow suit. Also, just because we need to adhere to scientific criteria does not mean that we cannot talk to our dogs. Moreover, by using instructive and analogue verbal feedback, people may transcend the training abilities of any computer. Well-timed quantum feedback only provides information vis a vis the desirability of specific behaviors, whereas a single word may provide the dog with several pieces of information: whether the behavior is desirable or not, the degree of desirability or potential danger of the behavior, plus specific instruction for how the dog may immediately correct undesirable behavior.

From “the Dog Star Daily” and Ian Dunbar’s Blog at http://dogstardaily.com/blogs/science-based-dog-training-feeling 

Go there to read blog comments and see more articles.

EDITOR’S COMMENT: I’m delighted that Ian has brought up the subject. Too many people know too little about clicker training. I.e. they know to click and treat what they like, but have no idea that fading the Click/Treat is part of the process and an important criteria in training. It also brings to mind some of the early concerns about clicker training in that it was too scientific and didn’t allow us to talk to our dogs or praise verbally. This is something that is being changed by the great trainers out there today. And that is to always find a happy medium and not be bound by too strict rules! In the TTouch world, we like to use what works for each individual dog and find that we often surpass what others think shouldn’t be possible! Hence we love using clicker and science along with a big dose of TTouch magic…



Guidelines for Cats
Humans
Humans have three primary functions: to feed us, to play with and give attention to us, and to clean the litter box. It is important to maintain one's Dignity when around humans so that they will not forget who is the master of the house. Humans need to know basic rules. They can be taught if you start early and are consistent.
 
7.   CLICKER CLASSES -TBA

2 Weekends in August! – Will send a flyer when all is finalized!



Guidelines for Cats
Cats as Humanitarians
Humans have a very tenuous hold on reality and it is up to the cats to help them maintain their grasp on said reality. For instance, humans often speak to imaginary friends while holding a small object up to their ear, with no other humans in sight, obviously losing touch with the real world! A cat must put a stop to this as quickly as possible! Climb on the human and get your face right up in theirs and meow very loudly until the human acknowledges you, therefore bringing them back to reality. If that fails, you can use the top of your head to try and knock the small object out of their hand/away from their ear, which almost always succeeds in stopping their talking to thin air.
 
8.   PUPPIES: CLASSICAL CONDITIONING

Whereas eight-week-old puppies are universally accepting of people, adolescent dogs naturally become wary of anything unfamiliar, including noises, objects, dogs, people and places. It is not uncommon for adolescent dogs to become fearful or reactive. As puppies grow older, the world becomes a scarier place. To prevent dogs from becoming wary of children, men, strangers, skateboarders, other dogs, loud noises, vacuum cleaners, nail clippers, collar grabs, etc. etc. etc., take your time when exposing your puppy, adolescent, or newly adopted adult dog to novel (unfamiliar) stimuli, settings and situations and make sure you classically condition your dog not only to tolerate, but also to thoroughly enjoy all of these potentially scary stimuli.

Simply put, classical conditioning helps your dog form positive associations with all sorts of stimuli. Let’s say your puppy has grown to be scared of men. Rather than feeding your dog in a bowl, use his entire allotment of kibble for classical conditioning. For one week, take your dog to dine downtown. Sit on a bench and offer him a piece of dinner kibble each time a man walks by. For a second week, ask male passersby, “Excuse me, would you mind hand-feeding my dog? He’s really shy of men.” In no time at all, your dog will form a positive association between men and FOOD and might muse, “Ah yes, I love men.”

The most important times to classically condition your dog are when visitors come to your house, on walks, in dog parks and especially during dog training classes.

From puppyhood onwards, have every visitor to your house offer your dog a few pieces of kibble. Even though your puppy may be Mr. Sociable right now, unless you take this precaution, he will most certainly become more standoffish, asocial, and maybe antisocial as he grows older. Please do not take your puppies golden demeanor for granted. Have every household visitor offer a food treat to your puppy/dog and then your dog will look forward to visitors. Additionally, teach each visitor how to use the treat to teach your dog to come, sit and stay.

Most people walk their dogs too quickly through the environment. There is simply too much for the dog to take in — people, other dogs, other animals, noises and smells — “Oh there’s a squirrel. I smell Trixie. Hmm! I just love the smell of her urine. Trixie! Trixie! Trixie! Son of a female dog! That motorcycle was soooooo loud! Oh, oh, oh! Cat poo! Woo hoo! Yes!!! And another squirrel. Two squirrels Oh what’s my owner saying now? Oh, S.O.A.F.D! There’s Bruno. OH he’s HUGE! And his owner looks nervous. Why’s my owner jerking my leash? Is that a discarded hamburger wrapping. There’s a cat. I know there’s a cat. Can’t see it. Can’t hear it. Can’t smell it, but I know it’s there somewhere. I can feel it. She’s looking at me. Where is she? Oh NO! Children! I hope they don’t come this way. Another squirrel. Is that the mail truck three blocks away? I hope I get back home before he come.” And so it goes on. The dog’s brain goes into sensory overload. The dog is over-stimulated and instead of paying attention to his owner he becomes hyperactive or reactive.

When walking a dog, on-leash or off-leash, stop every 25 yards, let the dog take his time to look, listen and sniff and wait until he establishes eye contact (acknowledges your presence) and accepts a couple of pieces of kibble before saying “Let’s go” and continuing the walk for another 25 yards. Every couple of hundred yards, find a comfortable place to sit and wait for your dog to settle down and get used to the new environment. Offer your dog a piece of kibble every time the environment changes, for example, each time a person passes by, and maybe two pieces of kibble for a man, a piece of freeze-dried liver for a boy, and three pieces of liver for a boy on a skateboard.

When dogs visit unfamiliar environments, offering then kibble is a great temperament test for trainers, veterinarians and owners to check that the dog is at ease. If the dog refuses kibble from the owner, he is probably anxious about the environment — so give him time to adapt. However, if the dog accepts kibble from his owner but not from his veterinarian or trainer, then the dog most probably feels ill at ease with the veterinarian or trainer and so, proceed slowly — verrrry slowly.

For an adolescent or young adult dog, dog parks and training classes can be pretty scary environments, usually with a high-voltage social scene. Always give the dog a chance to relax and get used to the environment. Before attempting to train, wait until the dog settles down and appears and ease. Periodically keep offering pieces of kibble. Once the dog feels at ease, he will take the kibble and start to pay attention. Keep offering the kibble regardless of the dog’s behavior; it doesn’t matter whether the dog is hiding and peeking, barking, growling, or snapping and lunging. Keep offering the kibble so that the dog eventually forms positive associations with the class setting, the other dogs, the trainer, and other people.

Some people are afraid that offering kibble during classical conditioning might unintentionally reinforce bad behaviors. Certainly, when training, we are always classically conditioning and operantly conditioning at the same time. If you use your voice when classically conditioning, “There’s a good boy, it’s OK,” you might unintentionally reinforce all sorts of unwanted behavior. The classical conditioning still works for us but the operant conditioning works against us and makes the problem worse. In time, the dog will begin to feel OK about the situation but will continue barking and growling, or hiding and shaking, because that’s what he’s been unintentionally trained to do. However, by using food when classically conditioning, you can only reinforce good behavior because a dog cannot bark and lunge or eyeball another dog at the same time as turning to face you to take food.

For example, let’s say we are trying to classically condition a dog that is barking and lunging at another dog. We offer food, but the dog ignores our offerings and continues barking and lunging. Eventually though, the dog barks himself out and sniffs the food, whereupon he turns away from the other dog to take the food. Taking the food does not reinforce the dog’s barking and lunging. On the contrary, the food reinforces the dog for stopping barking and lunging, for turning away from the other dog and for turning towards his owner. After a couple of dozen repetitions, the dog will begin to form positive associations with the sight of other dogs. “I love it when other dogs approach because then my owner feeds me dinner.” And as a bonus, the dog’s trained response to seeing another dog is to turn away from the dog and to sit quietly and expectantly facing his owner.

As classical conditioning proceeds, the dog is less and less inclined to react in a negative manner towards the scary stimulus. Once a dog forms positive associations with stimuli, such as a vacuum cleaner, other dogs, or people, he doesn’t want to growl or snap and lunge at them.

You simply cannot do too much classical conditioning. Remember…

Operant Conditioning Rocks! But…Classical Conditioning Rules!

©2007-2010 Ian Dunbar

With kind permission from Ian and www.DogStarDaily.com

Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

õ        Bedfordview/ Edenvale/Linksfield/Orange Grove: Puppy Starter Session -One private session with comprehensive booklet; Contact Scotty on 011 882 2418 (h); 082 928 0102 or scotty@scottysdogs.co.za   

õ        Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

õ        Bryanston, Puppy 1&2, Classes Wednesday evening & Saturday afternoon.
Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or
niki@thinkingpets.com

õ        Cape Town, Bellville; Puppy Socialization Saturday afternoons, call Debbie on 083 992-8767 or email Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net 

õ        Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends.  Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

õ        Durbanville: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. Ongoing: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 9790848 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ        Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, Every Sunday; contact Ilze van der Walt:

zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

õ        Hermanus, Gordon’s Bay, Somerset West: Puppy l & ll. Tel 082 490 1650 and e-mail janina@krugerphotography.co.za

õ        Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

õ        Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses on Saturday afternoons R480 Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ        Pretoria – Lynnwood Glen, Puppy classes for pups until 16 weeks and Basic obedience classes (using clicker training) for dogs 16 weeks and older.  Contact Anelize 079 272 4595 or Manuela 076 427 9166

õ        Randpark Ridge: Puppy Socialising with Clicker, 7 Week courses on Saturday mornings. Wendy Wilson, 083 336 1761 overthemoon@iafrica.com



Guidelines for Cats
Human Inconsistency
Humans spend many hours sitting in front of a box with moving pictures, tapping tiny squares on a board with their fingertips...it is rumored that this is actually how humans sharpen their claws! Considering how sanctimonious they are when they catch cats sharpening their claws, humans obviously need a lesson in consistency. One of the best ways to do this is to walk on the board with the tiny squares...that will always get a huge reaction from the human, a good indication that you're actually teaching them something! If that doesn't work, lay on the board or throw up a furball on it! There's no good reason why humans should be allowed to sharpen their claws while forbidding cats to do so!
 
9.   BEHAVIOUR / HEALTH

BEHAVIOUR: Dog-Dog Aggression – Do We Know What’s What?

By Suzanne Hetts and Daniel Estep

We’ve spent the last several weeks preparing for a two day seminar we’ll be giving with colleagues Dr. Marc Bekoff and Ms. Nancy Williams for Professional Animal Behavior Associates, Inc., in Guelph, Ontario Canada.  The theme is Dog-Dog Interactions:  The Good the Bad and the Ugly.

Dr. Bekoff has the lucky spot – speaking mostly about the “good” side of these relationships.  Suzanne will be talking about what motivates dog-dog aggression, Dan will be speaking on methods and inherent difficulties in assessing and evaluating dog aggressive dogs, and Nancy holds the anchor spot, speaking on behavior modification techniques for these problems.

What we’ve realized while preparing for the event is how little we know about relationships between dogs, how they develop and the factors that influence what sort of relationships develop. 

The literature mostly seems to still be stuck in “dominance” mode, attributing many problems to instabilities in social hierarchies, despite the fact that this attribution does not account for what we see with many of these problems.

For example, many of our cases have involved pairs of unrelated spayed female family dogs, in which one dog was already acquiescing to the other, attempting to avoid conflict, but the aggression from the attacking dog continued.  We started calling these dogs “bullies” because that’s what their behavior reminded us of. 

That’s not the way normal, healthy relationships between dogs should work.  The function of submissive and avoidance behaviors is to prevent or stop threatening and aggressive behavior. When one dog continues to be aggressive despite the display of these “cut off” signals from the other dog, something isn’t right.

Now, imagine implementing one of the more traditional procedures which is to support the “dominance” of one dog over another.  That just plays right into the “bully’s” model of the world.  The “bully” is learning that being “queen of the hill” must be the right way to behave.

In reality, some “bully” dogs are quite anxious and have learned to use aggression to suppress behaviors from other dogs that frighten them.  In other cases, the “bullies” just don’t seem to know how to respond appropriately to normal canine social signals, for reasons that often aren’t clear.  And in still others, the “bully” had never learned how to interact appropriately. 

The take home message is that dog-dog relationships are complex, and assigning them over-simplified labels such as “dominance”, or “resource guarding” can be misleading and interfere with gaining a clearer and more productive understanding of these problems.  It’s much more helpful to just describe the behaviors, the contexts in which they occur, and what elicits and also what inhibits or prevents conflict between the dogs.

A related topic is the role that owners play – or don’t play in the creation of these problems and in their resolution. For example – is it helpful or relevant to hand feed regular meals to a puppy that is being aggressive toward other puppies in a class setting?  We have a hard time seeing the relevance – but that’s a topic for a future article.

---Written by Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D., and Daniel Estep, Ph.D.  An edited version of this article first appeared in the Rocky Mountain News. Reprinted with permission from www.AnimalBehaviorAssociates.com  where you can find more articles, services and products, and subscribe to Pet Behavior One Piece at a Time, a free ezine

9b.  HEALTH: HOW TO REMOVE A TICK

Go to the Drs. Foster and Smith website to watch this video: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/media/players/video.cfm?videoid=345&ref=4608&subref=AA&cmpid=E-_-D-_-51810-_-ART - and note the reason for not grasping the body but rather near where the tick has entered the skin – and it has nothing to do with leaving the head behind!!

“To remove an attached tick, use a pair of fine-tipped tweezers or a tick-removing tool. Avoid grabbing the tick’s body. Instead, grab the tick right where the mouthparts enter the skin. Avoid using your fingers to grab the tick, as you are more likely to squeeze the body of the tick when doing so, which can cause harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter your pet’s bloodstream.

Without any jerking or twisting, pull the tick with firm, steady pressure directly outward. It may take a few minutes, but with continued pressure, the tick will dislodge.

Methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match, or alcohol will not cause the tick to back out. In fact, these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva into the wound.

After removing the tick, kill it by placing it in a jar of alcohol, freezing it or burning it. It’s important not to handle or squeeze the tick, since the contents of the tick can transmit diseases that affect humans, too.

Clean your pet’s bite wound with an antiseptic. You can also apply a small amount of triple antibiotic ointment to help prevent infection at the site. Wash your hands thoroughly after disposing of ticks and cleansing the bite wound.

It is common for pets to develop a rash or welt at the site of the bite, due to a reaction to tick saliva. A hydrocortisone spray may help alleviate the irritation, but healing can take a week or more. Continue to keep the area clean and dry. In some cases, the tick bite may scar your pet, leaving a small hairless area. Prevention is crucial to keep ticks from biting in the first place. We recommend monthly flea and tick topical preventives for any pets that reside in areas with ticks.”



Guidelines for Cats
The Eternal Question
When faced with the age-old question, "Is it love, or is it Fancy east?", we all know that it is Fancy Feast, of course. However, it is absolutely crucial that cats not let the humans know this, or the humans might stop sharing this treat with us! Always convince the human that your sudden, intense attention showered on them is LOVE! You can go back to normal behavior after the treat has been consumed!
 
10.   SHANTI UPDATE: INOCULATIONS & SWIMMING IN THE COLD

I’ve just had another notice from my local Vet to say that Harley needs his annual Vaccination. Now while I understand that a yearly check up for our dogs can be a good idea, the idea of an annual booster has long ago been shown to not be necessary and in some cases detrimental to your dog’s health. The Veterinary Schools in the US are now recommending every 3 years, which makes a bit more sense. Some of the more holistic Vets in this country are also recommending every 3 years. They find that dogs can be tested with a “Titer”, which will tell you if your dog needs the Vaccination. Personally I would rather spend money on that than putting things into Harley’s body when he isn’t in need. Unfortunately these Titer tests aren’t readily available in SA. Maybe it’s time we all start asking for them!

It never fails to amaze me that Shanti will go into the Pool even in cold weather – especially since she’s susceptible to having an “achey” body. But once the adrenaline starts pumping or she’s been running around and thus thirsty, she drops right in! Of course, then I usually have to dry her off so that she doesn’t get too cold once she slows down. I wonder where I lost that ability to just jump into cold water and not worry about the temperature! I’m sure she’s having more fun!

11.   YOUR LETTERS

Good morning Eugenie

I have to share with you the amazing difference in Buddy’s behaviour since Sunday. In the past few days he has "blossomed" and become a happy, confident animal with a tail that doesn’t stop wagging. Last night we saw him actually chasing that bent and scarred tail, something he has never done since we found him. We have a 10 month old Labrador pup and Buddy has been stealing his toys and playing chases and hide and seek with him every day. He is eating better and generally seems to have acquired a new zest for life. I must tell you that on Monday morning he was ready and waiting to get in the car to go for another session.

I am absolutely amazed at the effect TTouch has had. I have seen results before on my old dog that Scotty helped, but the change in Buddy is miraculous. He is still very vocal but I think that is his nature and part of his charm.

I have been using the Sensation harness and balance leash on the other dogs with very good results. I would like to purchase another harness and leash for my daughter to use on the Labrador. We walked him this morning in it and he walks much better than in the conventional collar.

Thank you and your wonderful assistants

Regards

Barbara Partner

****************************************************************************************************

Dear Sarah

YOU were such an inspiration - especially about the shelter, and I vowed that I was going to DO something really positive in that direction, when I came home. So, I went to our local shelter, looking for a dog that really needed me - and I have brought home the most beautiful Border Collie! Her name is Mouse. She was run over by a car, her left front leg was degloved from paw to shoulder, and since she belonged to an SPCA staff member, she was brought in to be treated by their vet. This vet saw fit to put her into a cage for 2 months after repairing her leg. During that time, her owner never visited her once.Not surprisingly, she then stopped eating AND it was discovered that her right hind leg had severe dysplasia. She was brought to this SPCA for an operation to remove the femoral head, and again put into a cage to recuperate. When I saw her, her owner had signed her over to the SPCA as she couldn’t afford the costs involved, and she was on the euthanasia list. 

She was very thin, but struggled gamely to her two good feet, and hopped a few steps before collapsing again.

The hind leg is flat, ( the pelvic area is also very hot ), the left shoulder seems to have no muscle at all over it. It is concave, just a scapula, with skin over it. That leg is bent at the elbow,bent at the wrist, stiff and unyielding.

On the inside of the elbow which is hard, swollen, and hot, was a hole, which she constantly licked.

I am going to do my utmost to rehabilitate her. I have had her for 11 days now, and already that hole is almost totally healed, and she has put on a little condition. She is also starting to put weight on the hind leg. Tonight she ate a quarter of her dinner standing up! Up to now, all eating and drinking took place lying down.

She is terrified of other dogs, but my two Bostons have been very sweet with her, and my young boy now plays with her, on her terms - she remains lying down!

OH, wait! on that front - more good news! The presentation I was going to give in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe, in August, has now developed into a workshop at the SPCA there, which I will give, free, for the employees, and the public - who will pay to attend, and that money will be for the SPCA! Once again, YOUR generosity paved the way for that!

I am SO proud to be part of the TTouch gang!!

Thank you, for YOUR GREAT part in it!!!!

Love you!!!

Doreen.

12.   ODDS AND ENDS

a. Book of the Month: Animals as Guides for the Soul by Susan Chernak McElroy

Having read Susan’s first book: Animals as Teachers and Healers, I look very much forward to reading this one!

By creating a modern mythology of animals from the stories she lives and collects, best selling author Susan Chernak McElroy offers astonishing evidence for a universal language of spirit and wisdom. As we read and share her powerful stories in which animals serve as mirrors of ourselves, as gateways to our instinctive nature, and as ambassadors to the realms of the soul, we can gain access to a greater truth.

Through daily experiences with the animals at Brightstar – her farm in Oregon- along with the compelling stories sent to her readers, McElroy gleans truths and revelations that are just as significant as those uncovered by animal scientists and

behaviourists. A deeply personal yet universal testament to the profound connection between animals and humans, Animals as Guides for the Soul offers insight and blessing. And as the author reminds us, the fingerprint of God is often a pawprint.

b. Website of the Month: http://cats.about.com

From adoption to literature and art, these folks have lots of good feline things for you. From feeding to breeds and breed pictures, to health, etc. If you haven’t yet experienced the “about.com” site, it’s worth a visit and you can get on the mailing list for most any subject.

 c: Interesting Links

·         http://www.flickr.com/photos/31012926@N03/show/ - If you love Nature Photography, you’ll love these!

·         http://www.youtube.com/user/TellingtonTTouch#p/a - See the Master, Linda Tellington-Jones do the famous “circle” and from here, you’ll find other interesting Ttouch YouTube videos.

13.   EVENTS

a. Thinking Pets presents Two day seminar with Professor Raymond Coppinger

Venue:  TBC

Date:  7 & 9 August 2010

Time:  9am – 5pm

Book & more details: Cost: R550 per person, per day.  The cost includes catering. 

To make a booking, please contact the ThinkingPets Office:  lindi@thinkingpets.com   011 463 0296     082 0499 209

Day 1: Behavioural ecology of the dog and the evolution of shape

Day 2: Behavioural conformation, basic ethology (intrinsic, accommodative and emergent behaviour)

EXCLUSIVE:  Spend a morning with Ray observing and discussing village dog behaviour on the 8th of

August, 2010.  This includes visiting informal settlements to study the dogs.  A security firm will accompany us

on the visit. ONLY TEN SPACES AVAILABLE. R550 per person. Transport will be provided. First come, first

serve and payment secures your place in this once in a lifetime event.

b.  Saints Big, Big Book Sales 29 May & 5 June (CLAW and Dogtown)

Northriding Square (Checkers) Bellairs Drive Randburg 9am till 2pm

The Charities benefiting from the sales this month are: Barking Mad and CLAW

Donations of books, jumble, pet food, collars, blankets etc. gratefully accepted on the day. 

If you could bring your donations directly to the sale we would really appreciate it, if you cannot make it on the day please email SAINTs@mweb.co.za stating where you live and work and we will liaise with a volunteer in your area to arrange a drop-off.

Contact Saints at 011 678 0846 or Viv at 082 259 0905 or Amy at 073 162 6900

c.  702 Walk the Talk event

Whiskers and Snouts and Co SANC Cat Sanctuary will be joining the Walk the Talk Charity Bond event, and they need 50 entries to qualify. 

Date:  Sunday 25 July 2010-05-31

Venue:  Marks Park Sports Club, Judith Road, Emmarentia

Distance:  5 km

RSVP:  7 June 2010 wasfoundation@gmail.com or 082 4252 184

Entries:  R120 Adults per person. R20 will be donated to Whiskers and Snouts & Co SANC Cat Sanctuary.  R60 for children under 18. R10 will be donated.  Please bring your Pooch / Pooches to join us for the day.   Come on, join us for lots of fun.

d. Hi all you animal lovers :) Please can you help us again, We need to get as many sms’s as we possibly can. Please, please, please can you tell as many people as possible to sms DOG to 38919 (Vodacom and MTN only) We really appreciate all the effort you put in and we ask if you can continue to help us so we can generate a regular income of funds and expand our work. Apart from helping feed shelter animals around the country your kind donations help us rescue, rehabilitate and re-home abandoned and neglected furry friends. We now take care of 20 special needs dogs and we are dedicated to providing them with the best care and rehabilitation programmes. Lets keep the sms campaign going strong :)Thank you for caring Tracy and the rescues :)

14.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES - – PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED

THE simpson labrador’s – Harley and Rusty. 

Owners immigrating to UK, and need home for their labbies. Born 18th April 2009, 2 thoroughbred male Labrador litter mates (1 black – Harley & 1 golden - Rusty), Castrated at 8 months old, Both have Backhome micro chips, Both are up to date with all vaccines and have up to date cards as proof, Both are registered with The Kennel Union of South Africa (KUSA) and have certificates. Both boys are loveable companions, friendly, affectionate & great natured dogs that love to be around people continuously. They travel well in a car. Kim Simpson W: 011 291 3807 C:076 917 6317 or E-mail: Kim.Simpson@Investecmail.com. Brett Simpson C: 072 232 9530 H:011 452 2380 or E-mail: BWSimpson_SA@yahoo.com

NATASHAS KITTIES – URGENT.  Please help us find homes for these two gorgeous kitties urgently.  Their fosterer can’t keep them this after this weekend. If you would like to view or adopt one of these 2 kitties, please contact Heidi on 083-9954113 or heidis@iburst.co.za

Rescue puppy looking for a home – female – smallish cross breed – about 2 month old – very cute – I cannot keep her as I have 38 cats and it is hectic here already!

Please phone Xenia 011 673 1053 (h) or 082 323 1507

These dogs are being rehomed due to unfortunate financial circumstances.

Our names are Goldie and Lucky, and we are both young, hip and vibey at just under 2 years old. Guess what .... we have already packed our kennel, blankets, bowls and pedigree certificates, we’re just waiting for our ride. We currently live in Mondeor, Johannesburg. We are the friendliest, happiest Labs in the neighbourhood. We are not sterilised yet and cant wait to be, as we want to be bachelors forever .... not parents ... yugh .... bark, bark, woof, woof.   CONTACT:  084 900 0209 

Kyalami kitties.  8 weeks old and want to go to permanent loving homes, however, they need to be homed 2 and 2.  One kitten is a boy and the others females.  They have all had their first vaccinations and have their own little ID books.  Any nterested parties can contact Judy 0836111333. We are in the Fourways area in Gauteng.

OLLY, TEDDY, WHISKERS,  Three beautiful rescue kittens up for adoption.

All male, siblings, about 9 weeks old, very affectionate !!  Please contact : Lauren 0727317397 or lauren.namer@iburst.co.za

Urgent appeal:  Tiger is just on 2 years old, He loves to socialize with people and children, He is fully house trained and has been sterilized.  If you would like to give Tiger a new home, please contact Sharleen on 083-7884884 or 011-4707770 or Sharleen.Stone@lifehealthcare.co.za.   

Eugenie Chopin, Certified TTouch Practitioner III for Companion Animal

PO Box 729, Strathavon 2031

Tel: 011 884-3156

Fax: 011 783 1515

Email: echopin@icon.co.za, Website: www.ttouch.co.za

                            

 
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.
 

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