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  Newsletter:
  MARCH 2010, TELLINGTON TTOUCH NEWSLETTER
1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS
4.   DOG WORKSHOPS
5.   TTOUCH TIPS - CHLOE’S STORY – HOW I LEARNED TO RUN AGAIN!
6.   CLICKER TIPS - CHANGING STRESS CUES TO CALM CUES: A TRAINING RECIPE FROM CLICK TO CALM BY EMMA PARSONS
7.   CLICKER CLASSES - TBA
8.   PUPPIES - JAZZ UP & SETTLE DOWN
9.   HEALTH - AGGRESSIVE DOGS: NATURE OR NURTURE? BY AIDAN BINDOFF
10.   SHANTI UPDATE
11.   YOUR LETTERS
12.   ODDS AND ENDS
13.   EVENTS
14.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES
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NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE
 
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 NEWSLETTER


 
1.   EUGENIE'S LETTER

Hello TTouch Friends!

I have just returned from a super trip to the USA to visit family and friends. My high school had a reunion that included all of the classes of the 60s. That will give you a hint at how long I’ve been around! It was a small school, so classes were small, which is why we could have so many together. What fun it was! I found the women easier to recognize than the men and wonder if it’s because we tend to look after ourselves better or maybe the guys just have a tendency to change more. Not sure, but it was fun trying to guess who people were – some I hadn’t seen in 35 years!

As always, it’s great to be back in Johannesburg! I love living here, my big and lush garden, the friends, staff and animals that I love and rely on – and of course the TTouch community that means so much to me. Having the 3 upcoming international Trainings is so exciting. We started with the horse training on Friday, April 16th and then the first of the 2 Companion Animal Trainings on April 22nd.

For those of you who my have hesitated to book for the April Companion Animal Training, we have 4 places only available on the Session 2 B Training which starts April 29th. If you are interested, please contact us ASAP on eugenie@ttouch.co.za or phone the office on 011 884 3156. This will probably be the last time you have the opportunity to join this program before 2012 – so book now!

For the rest, we thoroughly enjoy our evening with Border collie Rescue at the Barnyard! They are a great and active organization for which I have a great deal of respect. Be sure you book for next year, as it’s a fun filled evening!

And yes, Sarah Fisher has arrived back in South Africa! We started the horse training yesterday and had Carte Blanche filming there in the afternoon. So WATCH THIS SPACE for a screening date!

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Tellington TTouch Practitioner 3 for Companion Animals

eugenie@ttouch.co.za

www.ttouch.co.za

PS: if you want to download a TTouch article on cats, go to: http://www.kittycat.co.za/articles/Tension_Patterns_in_Cats.asp

This is about Tension Patterns in Cats by Sarah Fisher!



Guidelines for Cats
Doors
Do not allow closed doors in any room. To get door opened, stand on hind legs and hammer with forepaws. Once door is opened, it is not necessary to use it. After you have ordered an "outside" door opened, stand halfway in and out and think about several things. This is particularly important during very cold weather, rain, snow, or mosquito season. Swinging doors are to be avoided at all costs.
 
2.   PRACTITIONER TRAINING

PRACTITIONER TRAINING FOR COMPANION ANIMALSApril 29-May 4 or April 22-27

TTACT IV is off to a great start!

 We’ve had 2 super Intros now and we start with the first of the 2 training sessions next week! This session is full, but there are still a couple of places left in the 6-day training starting April 29th. If you want to join us, do contact us ASAP!

DATE:            April 22-27 or April 29-May 4, 2010

VENUE:        Broshacarm Kennels - Midrand

COST:            +/- R4200

Please contact Eugenie if you are interested in more information at eugenie@ttouch.co.za

SESSION 3: October 14-19, 2010



Guidelines for Cats
Chairs and Rugs
If you have to throw up, get to a chair quickly. If you cannot manage in time, get to an Oriental rug. If there is no Oriental rug, shag is good. When throwing up on the carpet, make sure you back up so that it is as long as the human's bare foot.
 
3.   HORSE WORKSHOPS

HORSE WORKSHOPS: 5-Day TTEAM with Sarah Fisher: April 2010

(Sorry, folks, but this Clinic is sold out. Bookings are however, open for October, so get a place now as this one is already half booked!)

Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.

The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How To Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.

Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn with out fear.

A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury- related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination

     

    VENUE

    HORSE

    DATE

    COST

    CONTACT

    Firlands Gordon’s Bay Western Cape

    2 day Horse Incorporating TTouch into your daily routine

     

    1-2 May

    R750.00  Incl. Notes

    Catherine quadrisense@gmail.com

    T:  021 790 0792

    Donnybrook Stables Johannesburg

    5 day TTEAM with Robyn Hood

    22-26 October 2010

                               +/- R4000

    Lindy equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577

4.   DOG WORKSHOPS

TTOUCH DOG/CAT WORKSHOPS AND CLASSES

VENUE

DOG

DATE

COST

CONTACT

Pinelands Scout Hall Cape Town

TTouch Understand your dog

10-11 July

R700

Debbie Conradie Debbie.Conradie@telkomsa.net 021 919 1991 or 083 992 8767

5.   TTOUCH TIPS - CHLOE’S STORY – HOW I LEARNED TO RUN AGAIN!
By Barbara George

“Did I do that?” That may have been Chloe’s thought as she ran around the house to do it all again; jump on the bed, then to the desk, the back of the chair, to the open sash window and into the garden a metre below. Not a big feat for most cats but a major breakthrough for Chloe.

Chloe is a Seal Point Siamese, between 7 and 10 years old, adopted in June by Carol and Sean. Her earlier life in a multi-cat household had been sedentary; most of the time she sat on a cushion, only moving for food and to use the litter tray. When she arrived she walked clumsily, swaying from side to side with her front paws often crossing each other. She had low muscle tone in her hind quarters and preferred to sit in one place. She could not jump but scrambled and clawed her way up onto chairs and beds.

Also difficult was the introduction to the resident two Siamese and the dog, but eventually an armed truce was reached - Don’t chase me, don’t jump on me and I won’t hiss at you. 

At Chloe’s first TTouch session, about 4 months after joining the family, it was found that she was sensitive to touch on her lower back and hind legs. Clouded Leopard touches were done on her body and hindquarters as well as some earwork. That evening she jumped onto the chair instead of scrambling up. She also seemed to be walking more easily.

At the second TTouch session Chloe experienced a soft body wrap. She wasn’t too sure about this but did walk a few steps before it was removed. More Clouded Leopard touches with some earwork and mouthwork were included the session. Chloe was definitely walking more easily, not swaying as much and crossing her paws less often.

The following session continued with Clouded Leopard, earwork and mouthwork and introduced tail work. At first Chloe was not sure about having her tail touched but soon settled. She no longer exhibited any stress in her lower back and was happy to have a half-wrap.

The most interesting observation after the session was the relationship between the cats. There was no more hissing and they were even playing ‘tag’ together in the passage. Chloe’s movements were more confident and her balance had improved.

Each TTouch session continued with the basic touches, Clouded Leopard concentrating on the hindquarters, earwork, and mouthwork but introduced something new to extend her learning process.

Next was the candy-stripe wrap, both front legs then both back legs in pairs. After this session Chloe started standing and walking more squarely on her feet, widening the distance between her front legs and having her legs more solidly under her body. Previously, with her crossing her paws and being unbalanced she had been walking more on the outside of her paws; now that has changed to walking more on the flat of her paws.

Chloe showed her improved confidence and balance by jumping onto a scratching post; the highest unaided jump she had made so far. This was her Christmas gift to her new family!

To continue the work on her legs Python Lifts were introduced, along with leg lifts. Chloe found this quite intense as she moved away after a few but soon came back for more. This was to help build the muscle in her legs and make her more aware of what is possible.

It was after this session that Chloe jumped onto and out of the window - now anything is possible!

After only 6 sessions Chloe is almost unrecognisable as the cat in the first session. Apart from improved mobility and balance she has gained confidence, found her place with the other cats and dog and is a much happier cat. She is more outgoing, more adventurous and more involved in the family life. Her legs are softer and more supple, she can move in new ways and her claws can retract properly (which they couldn’t do earlier).

Chloe set the tone for each TTouch session by specifying how long she accepted touches. In the first session she did not walk away at all but showed by body movements that she needed a break. In later sessions she walked away to process the work then came back for more touches. At each session the amount of touch work and processing varied, with the last session being the least touch work. After the first sessions she would even walk to greet me as I arrived.

Chloe has been a wonderful cat to work with. She communicates well, both vocally and through her body language. She has been expressive, involved and receptive to all the work that has been done. She set the limit of touch, walking calmly away and returning a few minutes later for the session to continue. When she is unsure of something, such as the first body-wrap, she indicates this via body language but allows for it to continue without becoming submissive. This cat really worked with me to help her; she had the desire to improve her life. Changes were visible after each session and she was as excited as everyone else at her achievements. She will continue to improve on her own now as she gains confidence and builds muscles. It has been rewarding to work with such a remarkable cat.

Barbara George is a new Ttouch Practitioner for Companion Animals who specializes in cats. She can be reached at barbara@ttouch.co.za



Guidelines for Cats
Bathrooms
Always accompany guests to the bathroom. It is not necessary to do anything . . . just sit and stare.
 
6.   CLICKER TIPS - CHANGING STRESS CUES TO CALM CUES: A TRAINING RECIPE FROM CLICK TO CALM BY EMMA PARSONS

In her book Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog, Emma Parsons presents several groundbreaking concepts in treating canine aggression through clickertraining. One of her remarkable new ideas recognizes the impact of the handler’s body language on a dog’s aggressive responses. She describes the moment in which she realized her own signs of stress were cueing her Golden Retriever Ben’s aggressive display:

"Because a handler under stress may not be able to control her own body language, Emma Parson’s training plans turn those stress signals into cues for calm, rather than aggressive, behavior."

"I suspected while working with Ben that he was responding to my body language as much as he was to the sight of another dog. So I conducted a little experiment. I took him out into the yard where there were no other dogs around. We walked, on-leash, as we normally would. Suddenly, as if I had seen another dog approach, I sucked in my breath and tightened the leash. Ben immediately became aggressive; he also moved his head back and forth scanning the perimeters of the yard. He was convinced that there was another dog in the immediate area. My body language and tight leash were his cue to be aggressive, as much or more so than the sight of another dog." Click to Calm, pp 82-83

Emma translated that realization into a practical application for training Ben and the reactive dogs of her clients. She identified four common behaviors that handlers exhibit when faced with an aggressive display: tightening the leash, grabbing the collar, holding the dog’s mouth shut, and moving quickly in the opposite direction. Working with the assumption that a handler under stress may not be able to control his or her own body language, she developed a training plan that would turn those inevitable stress signals into cues for calm, alternate behaviors, rather than for aggressive displays. Emma notes "Each may cause a dog to react aggressively. If you have identified other behaviors of your own that may have become signals for your dog to show aggression, the principals remain the same."

Here is Emma Parson’s step-by-step recipe for changing one stress cue, a tight leash, to a cue for calm, as excerpted from pages of Click to Calm:

Tightening the Leash:

Once you’ve worked this recipe with your dog, he will read your leash-tightening reaction as a cue to look at you calmly and await further instructions, rather than a cue to prepare for an aggressive encounter with another dog.

Especially helpful when:

·     Your dog meets other dogs. As your dog begins to sniff the other dog, you tense up and the leash goes tight. Follow the steps in this recipe, and instead of exploding, your dog will turn away from the other dog, give you eye contact, and loosen the leash himself. You can now ask for another behavior or simply move on.

How to make it happen:

1. Let your dog go to the end of the leash.

2. Take a step back.

3. Click and feed your dog the moment the leash goes taut.

4. Allow the dog to come to you to get the treat.

5. Repeat several times.

6. Once you’ve mastered Steps 1 to 5, stay in one spot and pull up on the leash.

7. Click and feed your dog for loosening the leash by coming toward you.

8. Gradually increase the amount of pressure with which you pull the leash tight.

9. Alternate between standing still and taking a step back.

10. As you continue to work this behavior, also reinforce any eye contact that occurs. At the sensation of his leash tightening, your dog, anticipating the click and treat, will move closer to you to loosen the leash; looking at you should become a natural part of this process.

11. When your dog consistently turns toward you when you pull up tightly on the leash, take your training sessions into a variety of distracting environments. Doing so will build up your confidence as well as your dog’s.

Secrets of success:

·     Tighten the leash very gradually so that the pressure on your dog’s collar is very slight at first; looking at you in response to this slight pressure should earn him a click and a treat. Increase the pressure in tiny increments.

If at any time your dog seems nervous, stop the exercise and go back to the previous level of success.

With thanks to Karen Pryor’s website - find more interesting articles on www.clickertraining.com.  You’ll also find out more about Emma Parsons on this site as well as her own site: http://www.creativecanine.com/



Guidelines for Cats
Hampering
If one of your humans is engaged in some close activity and the other is idle, stay with the busy one. This is called "helping", otherwise known as "hampering."
Following are the rules for "hampering":
 
7.   CLICKER CLASSES - TBA

2 Weekends in August! – Watch this Space!



Guidelines for Cats
When supervising cooking, sit just behind the left heel of the cook. You cannot be seen and thereby stand a better chance of being stepped on and then picked up and comforted.
 
8.   PUPPIES - JAZZ UP & SETTLE DOWN

Many owners experience great difficulty and frustration trying to get their adolescent dogs to settle down. Many dogs bark and bounce like crazy when the front doorbell rings. Dogs perform moon loops just because the owner says, “Walkies,” or picks up the dog’s leash. And on walks, some dogs literally explode with activity and uncontrollable enthusiasm at the mere prospect of meeting a person, another dog, a squirrel, or a leaf.

Many owners ignore their dogs when they are calm and well behaved and only attempt to control the dog’s behavior when he is really out of control. Obviously, this is a most challenging way to train. And it isn’t going to work that well. First, owners should practice settling down their dogs in easier scenarios — when the dog is less excited, or even when the dog perfectly calm and relaxed. For example, while your dog is snoozing on his bed, ask him to join you to settle down on the couch. Your dog would be only willing to obey. Then owners should settle down the dog in more distracting settings. For example, when walking your dog, ask him to settle down every 25 yards and by the end of just one walk, you’ll have a very different dog — much more attentive and biddable. Finally though, owners must “confront the beast “and learn how to teach Mr. Hyperdog to settle down quickly and willingly, anytime and anywhere. This is one of the first adolescent exercises that we teach at SIRIUS® Dog Training, because this is precisely what owners have come to learn. In many adult dog training classes, dogs are never allowed to bark and bounce or express their enthusiasm and so, owners can never learn how to settle down their dogs when they are excited. Obviously, we have to allow dogs to bark and bounce in order to practice teaching them to settle down and shush. However, rather than let the dogs be rambunctious at will, we teach the dog’s to be rambunctious on cue.

Interestingly, as soon as we instruct owners to jolly up their dogs and get them to vocalize and jump in the air, most dogs simply stand and stare and observe their owners with some considerable curiosity. This is a classic example of Murphy’s First Law of Dog Training: When trying to teach a particular behavior, usually the opposite happens. With a little encouragement though, most owners quickly learn to teach their dogs to jazz up on cue, whereupon the owners may now, at their convenience, repeatedly practice teaching their dogs to settle down on cue. The jazz-up-and-settle-down sequence is repeated until every owner can get their dog to settle down and shush within three seconds.

Once the owner has taught their dog to perform a “problem” behavior on cue, the behavior is no longer a problem that works against training, instead the activity may now be used as reward to reinforce training. For example, after a lengthy period of settle-and-shush, you may instruct your dog to bounce, circle, bark, rollover, or tug as a reward. After walking calmly on leash, you may instruct your dog to pull as a reward. (Especially useful when going uphill.)

An additional benefit of having activity problems on cue is that you may now instruct your dog to let off steam when the time is convenient. For example, I would always instruct my Malamute to stick his head out of the sunroof and howl whenever we were stuck in commuter traffic on the San Francisco Bay Bridge. In fact, once, during an especially lengthy traffic jam, a BMW driver followed suit and howled back!

©2006 Ian Dunbar With kind permission from Ian and www.DogStarDaily.com

Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

õ        Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

õ        Bryanston, Puppy 1&2, Classes Wednesday evening & Saturday afternoon.
Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433 or
niki@thinkingpets.com

õ        Cape Town; Puppy Socialization Saturday afternoons, call Debbie on
083 992-8767 or email
Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net 

õ        Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends.  Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

õ        Durbanville: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. Ongoing: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 9790848 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ        Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, Every Sunday; contact Ilze van der Walt: zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

õ        Hermanus, Gordon’s Bay, Somerset West: Puppy l & ll. Tel 082 490 1650 and e-mail janina@krugerphotography.co.za

õ        Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

õ        Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses on Saturday afternoons R480 Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ        Pretoria – Lynnwood Glen, Puppy classes for pups until 16 weeks and Basic obedience classes (using clicker training) for dogs 16 weeks and older.  Contact Anelize 079 272 4595 or Manuela 076 427 9166

õ        Randpark Ridge: Puppy Socialising with Clicker, 7 Week courses on Saturday mornings. Wendy Wilson, 083 336 1761 overthemoon@iafrica.com

õ        Sandringham: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays & Weekday evenings ongoing. Kim Heller 082 570 0463 kimh@kti.co.za



Guidelines for Cats
For book readers, get in close under the chin, between eyes and book, unless you can lie across the book itself.
 
9.   HEALTH - AGGRESSIVE DOGS: NATURE OR NURTURE? BY AIDAN BINDOFF

Innate, trained, or a mix? 

"Aggressive dogs aren’t born, they’re raised that way." 

How many times have you heard this statement? Have you ever wondered how much truth there is to it?

Owners of reactive or aggressive dogs frequently say, "I’ve had other dogs before and none of them have been like this, so I don’t know where I went wrong!"

I meet once a week with a couple of friends who have "dog-aggressive dogs." We work on behaviors like recalls and loose-leash walking with other dogs around. Each of us has two dogs and, without exception, just one of the dogs is reactive to other dogs while the other is completely sociable with other dogs. Why is this?

If owners had a deficiency in their ability to raise a pup, surely the deficiency would be manifest in other dogs that they owned? Is the aggressive behavior a problem with the reactive dog’s temperament, the owner’s raising and training of the dog, or a bit of both?

Is the aggressive behavior a problem with the reactive dog’s temperament, the owner’s raising and training of the dog, or a bit of both?

Aggressive behavior is reinforced

Let’s begin by stating an important fact: aggressive behavior is operant behavior. Yes, yes, I know that aggression is usually a symptom of fear, anxiety, or stress (and, occasionally, instinct), and that most experts recommend classical conditioning to treat the cause of aggression. But the fact remains that the actual aggressive behavior is operant. It is the product of reinforcement.

An example is the dog who, uncomfortable around other dogs, barks out of fear. This may be unconditioned behavior the first time, but if it works and the other dog keeps his distance or leaves, it may serve to reinforce the behavior of barking. The barking then becomes operant behavior. The next time the fearful dog sees another dog, he has a behavior that has worked in the past to keep the other dog away. So, he repeats it.

The dog’s owner is likely to be lambasted by well-meaning folk for not socializing a dog adequately, or for not being "alpha," or for not earning the dog’s trust—or it may even be implied that the owner leads by a fearful or aggressive example!

Having followed the socialization prescription to the letter with one of my own dogs—a reactive dog—I would bet money that it is the quality of adequate socialization that inoculates the young dog against developing fear-based aggression, not the quantity of socialization. Socialization experiences that are not beneficial are just as likely to cause fear-based aggression as too few socialization experiences.

So, aggression is operant behavior, since every socialization experience that reinforces aggression maintains or increases it. That said, dog owners must provide frequent and varied socialization experiences so that the dog learns that other dogs and other people, new places, new sounds, and new objects are not something to be feared. This level of exposure is what I mean by "adequate"—enough to reinforce appropriate behaviors and have those behaviors generalize to new and varied experiences.

Certainly it is possible for a dog’s owner to reinforce fearful or aggressive behaviors in a dog. This reinforcement can come from attempts at soothing, from removing the dog from stressful situations immediately after aggressive behavior has been displayed, from putting the dog into situations where the dog is likely to display reactive behavior in order to cope, or from botched attempts to reprimand aggressive behavior.

Set up for success—and get help when needed

The "Golden Rule" in dog training is to set the dog up for success, then reinforce that success.

The "Golden Rule" in dog training is to set the dog up for success, then reinforce that success. Experienced dog owners may pick up the signs of fear or anxiety early enough to take decisive and beneficial action, and then reinforce appropriate behaviors. Less experienced dog owners should seek help from a competent instructor as soon as they get a pup, or, if not then, at the first sign of trouble—before accidentally worsening the aggressive or fearful behavior.

Genetics matter

A genetic predisposition toward fearful or aggressive behavior can make it very difficult for even experienced dog owners to avoid having fearful or aggressive behaviors reinforced in a dog. Some dogs will never be completely comfortable around whatever their aggression target is, even after being trained so that they don’t display aggressive behavior any more. The safety of the aggression target is never assured. I trained one of my dogs not to attack people on bikes under virtually any circumstance, at any speed, even off-leash. Yet one day, while I was tying my shoelace, she lunged at a rider as he passed. I hadn’t trained for that! Hope that the training will generalize, but even if it does, do not expect 100% reliability.

Some dogs, and some breeds in particular, are more likely to "fight" than "flee" when faced with a stressful situation. It is no coincidence that my golden retriever runs from a stressful situation, while my German shepherd will stay and face the threat head-on. Both responses are entirely normal for the breeds (to a degree). It would be very difficult to train a police dog who ran away when faced with threat. That doesn’t mean that all phenotypically-ideal German shepherds will be aggressive, but it may mean that extra care is required to ensure that behaviors appropriate to the situation are reinforced and trained to fluency.

Separating interconnections is difficult

Dog owners certainly can and do make mistakes that contribute to a dog’s aggression or reactivity, but it wouldn’t be fair to place the blame solely with a dog’s owner. There are many factors and events in a dog’s life that contribute to aggressive or reactive behavior. If we could go back in time and erase all the owner’s mistakes, in many cases the dog would still learn to use aggressive or reactive behaviors. The good news is that behavior is changeable. We can shape it one click at a time.

With Permission from the Karen Pryor website: http://www.clickertraining.com/

See more articles from Aidan at this website!

9b. HEALTH: Useful Tips & Info How To Brush Your Dog’s Teeth

  • The first step is to start with a clean, healthy mouth. Good dental hygiene should start with a young pet with healthy new teeth and gums, or after your pet has had a professional dental cleaning.

  • You will need a soft-bristled tooth brush and veterinary toothpaste. Human toothpastes and baking soda may cause problems. Furthermore, veterinary toothpastes have flavors that are appealing to dogs. Anything other than a bristled tooth brush will not get below the gum line, which is the most important area to brush.

  • There are several important facts about our pets’ mouths that tell us when, where and how to brush. Periodontal disease usually affects the upper, back teeth first and worst. Plaque builds up on the tooth surface daily, especially just under the gum line. It takes less than 36 hours for this plaque to become mineralized and harden into "tartar" (calculus) that cannot be removed with a brush. Because of this progression, brushing should be done daily, with a brush to remove the plaque from under the gum line.

  • Pick a time of day that will become a convenient part of your pet’s daily routine. Just before a walk or before a daily treat can help your pet actually look forward to brushing time. Take a few days to let both of you get use to the process. Follow with praise and a walk or treat each time.

  • Start by offering your dog a taste of the veterinary toothpaste. The next time, let him taste the toothpaste, then run your finger along the gums of the upper teeth. Repeat the process with the tooth brush. Get the bristles of the brush along the gum line of the upper back teeth and angle slightly up, so the bristles get under the gum line. Work from back to front, making small circles along the gum lines. It should take you less than 30 seconds to brush your pet’s teeth. Do not try to brush the entire mouth at first. If all that your pet lets you brush is the outside of the upper teeth, you are still addressing the most important area of periodontal disease - prevention. If your pet eventually allows you to brush most of his teeth, so much the better.

Even with the best tooth brushing, some dogs may still need an occasional professional cleaning, just like humans. By brushing your pet’s teeth daily and curtailing the amount of periodontal disease, you may reduce the frequency and involvement of dental cleanings and provide your pet with a healthier, sweeter smile.



Guidelines for Cats
For people paying bills (monthly activity) or working on income taxes or Christmas cards (annual activity), keep in mind the aim-to hamper! First, sit on the paper being worked on. When dislodged, watch sadly from the side of the table. When activity proceeds nicely, roll around on the papers, scattering them to the best of your ability. After being removed for the second time, push pens, pencils, and erasers off the table, one at a time. When a human is holding the newspaper in front of him/her, be sure to jump on the back of the paper. They love to jump.

Guidelines for Cats
Walking
As often as possible, dart quickly and as close as possible in front of the human, especially on stairs, when they have something in their arms, in the dark, and when they first get up in the morning. This will help their coordination skills.

 
10.   SHANTI UPDATE

I have just come back from the USA and one of the biggest pleasures is always to return to the “children”! The dogs were their usual boisterous selves and even the cat was hanging out in the driveway! They seem to have fared well while I was away. Heleen has become Harley’s best friend, as she plays with him each time she goes out into the garden for a break. Actually if she goes out the door without him, he screams at being left behind. We now have to teach him the difference between her going out the door for a break and to actually leave the property!

Shanti has done relatively well this summer with her back and I’m working on seeing her feeling well and mobile with minimum medication! For those of you who have known her since she was a puppy, you know that in the early days, she could “Play” 24/7. She’s slowed down “a bit” with age. However, she manages to keep herself busy. I watched fascinated this afternoon as when I wasn’t showing interest in throwing the Kong for her, she “managed” to drop it into the swimming pool, spent 10 minutes on the steps trying to get it out, (Harley of course standing by ready to take if from her and cheering her on) and then let it slip off the steps; at which time, “Mom” is expected to get the pool scooper and get it out. A grand time was had by all!

And Harley thanks his fans for the mail after his HERO incident!



Guidelines for Cats
Bedtime
Always sleep on the human at night so s/he cannot move around.
 
11.   YOUR LETTERS

TTOUCH HELPS CHEYENNE GIVE BIRTH

Dear Eugenie

I just want to thank you so much for bringing ttouch to South Africa. Whenever I do the work, which is almost daily I always get a good feeling but recently I had the need to do it for an important situation, and it actually made me cry as at long last I could do something worthwhile for my pet and not just stroke and reassure them.

Cheyenne went into labour at 10-30pm on Wednesday night. Being a first litter I could see the panic in her eyes as she did not know what was happening. I immediately started slow ear strokes and reassured her that this is how things were meant to be. I could see the trust in her eyes straight away and her expression changed, becoming a little more relaxed. As her labour intensified I progressed on and did gentle abalones all along her spine. I was so taken aback by the clear look of intense gratitude that Cheyenne gave me. Throughout the night I alternated between ear slides and circles, abalones and coiled python lifts. It was such a lovely feeling to know that I had something that I could do rather than just sitting and stroking Cheyenne telling her that all was going to be all right. By 5am four puppies were born and Cheyenne seemed to be finished.

I was a little surprised but she was sleeping and not in any distress. Unfortunately a few hours later Cheyenne had to have a Cesar as two puppies were left behind. Apparently the one puppy was very large and did not drop down low enough in the birth canal to initiate the pushing response. I was very sad that a perfect puppy did not make it but at least the one that was trapped behind made it but just in the nick of time. The vet spayed Cheyenne at the same time as it did not make sense to put the uterus back when I was not going to have any more puppies from her. I have continued with the TTouches, which I feel helped Cheyenne to return home and immediately start feeding her puppies. Cheyenne has turned out to be a very calm and exceptionally good mother. I do think that doing ttouch on her helped her get through all that she went through in a very calm and accepting manner.

Thank you so much for giving me something useful to do in this situation.

Love

Carmen



Guidelines for Cats
Play
This is an important part of your life. Get enough sleep in the daytime so you are fresh for your nocturnal games. Below are listed several favorite cat games that you can play. It is important, though, to maintain one's dignity at all times. If you should have an accident during play, such as falling off a chair, immediately wash a part of your body as if to say "I meant to do that!" It fools those humans every time.

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Guidelines for Cats
Cat Games

Catch Mouse
The humans would have you believe that those lumps under the covers are their feet and hands. They are lying. They are actually Bed Mice, rumored to be the most delicious of all the mice in the world, though no cat has ever been able to catch one. Rumor also has it that only the most ferocious attack can stun them long enough for you to dive under the covers to get them. Maybe YOU can be the first to taste the Bed Mouse!
*****************************************************
Guidelines for Cats
Cat Games

Catch Mouse
The humans would have you believe that those lumps under the covers are their feet and hands. They are lying. They are actually Bed Mice, rumored to be the most delicious of all the mice in the world, though no cat has ever been able to catch one. Rumor also has it that only the most ferocious attack can stun them long enough for you to dive under the covers to get them. Maybe YOU can be the first to taste the Bed Mouse!

Guidelines for Cats
Cat Games

King of the Hill
This game must be played with at least one other cat. The more, the merrier! One or both of the sleeping humans is Hill 303 which must be defended at all costs from the other cat(s). Anything goes. This game allows for the development of unusual tactics as one must take the unstable playing theater into account.
Warning: Playing either of these games to excess will result in expulsion from the bed and possibly from the bedroom. Should the humans grow restless, immediately begin purring and cuddle up to them. This should buy you some time until they fall asleep again. If one happens to be on a human when this occurs, this cat wins the round of King of the Hill.
 
12.   ODDS AND ENDS

a. Book of the Month: CHILL OUT FIDO! – How to Calm your dog by Nan Kene Arthur

Calm your canine wild child! Does your dog go bonkers when the doorbell rings or when you grab the leash to take him for a walk? If you find your dog is often difficult to control, you are not alone! Getting your dog to calm down and relax is one of the most common challenges per pet parents face. This two-part book will help you first identify the factors that cause this kind of behaviour in dogs, then it provides you with eleven key training exercises to teach your dog how to calm down, pay attention to you, relax and respond to everyday situations with confidence and composure!

Editor’s comment: This looks like a really practical book with step-by-step exercises to training your dog to react differently in arousal producing situations. The TTouch office has several of these books on order and they should be in very shortly.

Alternatively try Jane at Pet Publications: petspub@iafrica.com  or order from www.Dogwise.com

b.  Website of the Month: www.dogwise.com

If you have ever wondered if there is a book on just what your dog does that you’d like to understand, if you’re looking for the latest in training, clicker or behavioural books, this is an absolute must for you to visit! What we love about it, is that they take pride in offering books on positive methods of dog training. You’ll also find breed books, dog sport books, DVDs on a multitude of subjects, etc, etc, etc. It’s a must to go to just to see what’s out there!

c: Interesting Links

 * http://www.clickertraining.tv/product.html?item=FREE-02

From Karen Pryor’s Puppy Love (available at the Clickertraining.com Store), Carolyn Clark gives you an overview and some tips on potty training your puppy. To learn how to teach your puppy to ring a bell when it needs to go potty, check out How to Teach ’Ring the Bell’ for Potty Time by Virginia Broitman and Sherri Lippman

* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmcTW_FgL_U&feature=related

Dazzle’s Dazzling Tricks – Great Fun! BC doing all sorts of fun things!

*  http://www.boulderdog.net/2009/11/24/bonfire-of-the-insanities-dumbinance-strikes-again/

I can’t quite remember where I found this link, but it’s well worth a visit!

Bonfire of the Insanities: Dumbinance Strikes Again

* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOhf3OvRXKg

While this has nothing to do with animals, if you’ve never seen these sand drawings, you don’t know what you’re missing! Fantastically beautiful!



Guidelines for Cats
Toys
Any small item is a potential toy. If a human tries to confiscate it, this means that it is a good toy. Run with it under the bed. Look suitably outraged when the human grabs you and takes it away. Always watch where it is put so you can steal it later. Two reliable sources of toys are dresser tops and wastebaskets. There are several types of cat toys.

Guidelines for Cats
Bright shiny things like keys, brooches, or coins should be hidden so that the other cat(s) or humans can't play with them. They are generally good for playing hockey with on uncarpeted floors.

Guidelines for Cats
Dangly and/or string-like things such as shoelaces, cords, gold chains, and dental floss (& Q-tips) also make excellent toys. They are favorites of humans who like to drag them across the floor for us to pounce on.
 
13.   EVENTS

a. SHELTIE FUN CLUB DAY

Venue: 110 Mimose Rd., Blue Hills, Kyalami

Date: April 27

Time: 9 a.m.

Book & more details: Carla.vandermerwe@up.ac.za 083 308 5223

b. GREEN FINGERS PICNIC PARTY
Three months ago, Wet Nose paid R7,000 to have the grass cut. Due to the wonderful rains recently, the grass has shot up even higher than before! We cannot even get into some of the camps and paddocks because they are so overgrown. Wet Nose simply cannot afford to have it professionally cut again.

Wet Nose will be hosting the Green Fingers Picnic Party on Saturday 22 May 2010, starting at 09h00. Volunteers are invited to bring along picnic baskets and blankets.  Hotdogs, food, cold drinks and refreshments will also be on sale.

We need people to bring along rakes, forks, spades, garden shears, petrol weed eaters, petrol bruschcutters and, if possible, lawn mowers. Garden gloves and gumboots are necessary as there may be snakes in the grass.  Don’t forget your petrol.

As always, Wet Nose relies on wonderful public support. We hope that many volunteers will turn up for the event – after all, many hands make light work.

Afterwards we will enjoy music, friendship and fun – something Wet Nose guarantees at every event!   Please R.S.V.P to Wessel
mailto:wetnose.marketing@absamail.co.zaor phone 013- 932-3941/2 for directions

c. THINKING PETS CATTERY has a few places available for the June/July Holidays. Book now for this Bryanston Cattery to avoid disappointment!

Contact Lindi on lindi@thinkingpets.com



Guidelines for Cats
Paper Bags
Within paper bags dwell the bag mice. They are small and camouflaged to be the same color as the bag, so they are hard to see. But you can easily hear the crinkling noises they make as they scurry around the bag. Anything, up to and including shredding the bag, can be done to kill them. Note: any other cat you may find in a bag hunting for bag mice is fair game for a sneak attack, which will usually result in a great Tagmatch.
When a string is dragged under a newspaper or throw rug, it magically becomes the Paper/Rug Mouse and should be killed at all costs. Take care, though. Humans are sneaky and will try to make you lose your dignity.
 
14.   DOGS & CATS NEEDING HOMES

PLEASE ONLY CONTACT THE NUMBERS STATED

MISSING: 

My kitten went missing during the night last night, and was seen being picked up in the road. I am now trying to create the worlds largest search for a male that picked up a cat in the Wilgeheuwel area this morning. E-mails can travel everywhere and very quickly. According to 6 degrees of separation - one of you knows someone who knows the person that picked up my kitten. If you have ever forwarded on pointless e-mails in the past, please forward this on even if it means nothing to you, because it means everything to me. Nicki.Downing@za.didata.com - sent March 23rd.

NEEDING HOMES:

Boerboel dogs seeking loving home.   One female, and one male Boerboel mixes.  Looks like could be ridgeback mixes, but they don’t have papers, so brand unknown :(  in an empty yard, with the neighbour feeding them at the moment.  If we can get them a home, even better.  Brenda Michau  Tel: 011 638 2671

Rescued 4 cross Sheppard puppies three days ago. They are healthy and lively. Please help me place them. They are at my house in Westdene. My details are: Xenia 011 673 1053 (h); 082 323 1507

Minky, a 5 year old Female Dachshund is looking for a home as her owners are immigrating. Call 561 2391

Shaughny has been told by her complex to reduce the number of kitties she has and these are kitties she rescued and have been fostering. They are all beautiful females aged 8 months old, have been sterilised, inoculated and de-wormed. If you require more info, would like to view any of them or give any of them a home, please call Shaughny on 011-7948718 (O), 071-6735749 or Shaughny@the-wizards.co.za.

I need to find a new home for the German Shepherd I adopted in December, Sarabi, a picture of her attached. Unfortunately she attacked my cocker spaniel over the weekend, and Indi is my baby and has been with me for 11 years, and I can’t run the risk of it happening again, and Indi is now scared of Sarabi so I just don’t think it’s a healthy situation. Sarabi is 10 years old and generally very docile, she has arthritis so is not very active, and she also has an eye condition which gives her hazy vision, so she needs drops every 10 days or so and a good loving home, she’s very much an inside dog, she’s been fine with Dakota and grew up with small. Call Mandy Roberts on 083 746 4991



Guidelines for Cats
To Be Continued Next Month!
 
 
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.
 

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