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18.   EVENTS
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Hello TTouch Friends,

What a fabulous month we’ve had! We have graduated 7 new Practitioners for Companion Animals, 2 new Practitioners-In-Training, started the new class for Companion Animals with 25 new students and introduced 15 new people to the equine work! So we’re a bit bushed, but happy.


Congratulations to new Practitioners for Companion Animals: Wendy Wilson, Anelize van Wyk & Tersia Kock in Gauteng and Barbara George, Judy Post, Janina Kruger and Mari Yanagawa in the Western Cape! As well as our new Practitioners-In-Training Manuela Fritz and Celeste Watcham. Details for Practitioners can be found at www.ttouch.co.za


A very big thanks to Robyn Hood who is a brilliantly stunning, energetic & compassionate teacher. We love you Robyn!


The Garden has been going through a glorious transformation. From the early blooms of Jasmine, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow & Wisteria with their sweet scents to the first blush of roses that we are now enjoying in the office! The Inca and Arum Lilies are in full bloom along with irises and some of the annuals. Needless to say, the dogs are begging us for breaks and each time Louise goes outside and Harley gets left inside, he squeals like a stuck pig to follow her! At the moment he is staring at the office wall looking for the light play off of Carolyn, our bookkeeper’s watch! Fun indeed.


And of course we are thrilled to have Sarah Fisher joining us in 2010! Many of you have see Sarah on DSTV’s “Talking to Animals” – (National GeoWild). She is not only brilliant at the TTouch work, but is super fun as well. We can’t wait to have Sarah back with us next year. She will be teaching the Second Intro Jan.30-Feb. 3, 2010; as well as the April sessions for both Companion Animals and Horses.  Book your place now!

Enjoy the beauty of Nature with your 4-leggeds!


Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Certified Practitioner III for Companion Animals


We have identified a new disease probably caused by a virus among dog-owning people. It apparently has been in existence for a considerable amount of time, but only recently has a science identified this disease and begun to study it. We call it Acquired Canine Obsessive Syndrome (ACOS). At first ACOS was originally considered to be psychological in origin, but after two young researchers suddenly decided to become show breeders, we realised we were dealing with an infectious agent. Epidemiologists have identified three stages of this disease and its typical symptoms. Below are the stages and the symptoms, as we know them today:

You have early symptoms (stage 1) if:
1. You think a show within 300 miles is close by.
2. You begin to enjoy getting up at 5 a.m. to walk and feed the dogs.

TTACT IV will have its second Intro Jan 30 – Feb 3, 2010

After a fabulous start to the TACT IV Program in October, we are even more excited to offer the Second Introductory Course in late January! This course will be for those who missed the October Intro. A bonus is that Sarah Fisher will be the Instructor. Many of you have see Sarah on DSTV’s Talking to Animals – (National GeoWild).


The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 5 & 7 days.  You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of the Intro training, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT IV class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.


After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.


The Program is a comprehensive training of hands on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.



We endeavour to help the student to be proficient and confident in the TTouch work. To this end we have a program that we believe gives a steady, hands-on experience for the best results. That includes such things as:

·        After session 2, the TTouch student is required to do 5 case studies between each session, 15 in total. This is to ensure that the student is doing and experiencing the work as well as getting feedback on what they are doing.

·        After session 2, each student receives a Mentor who is available to help him with these case studies and any question he might have about how to handle a particular situation.

·        At session 2, we begin to take students to a Shelter to work on both cats and dogs. This is to give you an opportunity to experience as many different animals as possible. It also allows us to give back something to the animal community. (Please note that if anyone has an objection to going into the shelter, and we realize that it is hard for some, there is no obligation. There is always an alternative to work with the kennel or your own animals instead.)

·        At session 3, we start to introduce Client Days. This is a morning where we set up Clients and their dogs for you to help in a safe and supported environment.

·        In general, the course is very much a hands on training, giving you a great variety of experience with as many animals as possible, so that at the end of 6 modules you feel confident to handle the clients and cases that come your way.

·        TTACT students are encouraged to assist at workshops given by fully Certified Practitioners. This is a great learning experience and invaluable to the learning process.

·        The TTouch office and Guild is always here to answer any questions or concerns you might have. Please don’t hesitate to call us if you have any needs!

·        Our Instructors all come from overseas and are the best in the world. One of the beauties of this program is that the same people teach it worldwide and so the information doesn’t get filtered down through many hands. The Instructors include Linda Tellington Jones (creator of TTouch), Robyn Hood (Linda’s sister and brilliant teacher), Edie Jane Eaton (also a Feldenkrais Practitioner) & Debby Potts (teacher par excellence).

·        This program is about helping you communicate with animals, giving people an alternative method of working with both animals and people, our human relationship with the animal world and giving you the tools to do all of these things. The program is dynamic, creative and yet very practical so that the work is clear and easy to understand.


At the end of 2 years, if you have done your case studies, you will acquire the Status of Practitioner–In–Training and are then able to charge for one-on-one consultations with clients.


DATE:             Jan 30 – Feb 3, 2010; April 22-27, 2010

VENUE:          Broshacarm Kennels - Midrand

COST:             +/- R4000 (Dependant on Rand/Dollar Rate)


Please contact Eugenie if you are interested in more information at eugenie@ttouch.co.za

You have early symptoms (stage 1) if:
3. It is fun to spend several hours a day grooming dogs.

You have early symptoms (stage 1) if:
4. You think you're being frugal if you spend less than $3000 a year on

5-Day TTEAM with Sarah Fisher: April 2010


Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.


The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How To Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.


Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn with out fear.


A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury- related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination

The TTEAM method provides solid, practical and informative tools to help with:

  • Sore backs

  • Stiffness & stress

  • Nervousness & tension

  • Inconsistent performance, stubbornness & laziness

  • Lameness & unevenness of stride

  • Girthing and saddling-up

  • Resistance to the vet and farrier

  • Bucking & rearing

  • Resistance to grooming, clipping, pulling manes & giving shots

  • Head tossing & tail wringing

  • Biting & kicking

·         Loading







                  Franschoek Western Cape

2 Day Horse Incorporating TTouch into your Daily Routine

           Nov.           14 &15


 Catherine quadrisense@gmail.com   

021 790 0792 (w)

 082 569 8641

Donnybrook Stables Johannesburg

5 Day TTEAM with Sarah Fisher

April 16-20, 2010

+/- R4000

Lindy equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577

You have early symptoms (stage 1) if:
5. You can't remember what it was like to have just one dog.

Learn why your dog misbehaves and learn techniques that will change its behaviour






CAPE TOWN Pinelands Scout Hall



 Understand Your Dog!

                             7th & 8th November




Debbie Conradie   debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net

021 919 1991
083 992 8767

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
1. Your most important factor, when buying a car, is how many crates you can
fit in it.

How to Help an Older Cat with Arthritis

By Barbara George, Practitioner 1 for Companion Animals

At age 17 ½ Pandora started showing signs of arthritis; slow to get up in the morning, reluctant to jump, resistance to touch on her back and hind legs. She is a medium-sized cat but very thin, weighing in at just over 1Kg, and very sensitive to touch anywhere on her body.

The first hurdle was to get her feeling comfortable with touches in her good areas. She loves her face and head rubbed, so that was the place to start, with gentle Clouded Leopard and little Racoon touches.

The first sessions were daily, starting with a few seconds and extending to around a minute. Gradually over two weeks the touches were extended to her shoulders and upper back. Because Pandora is so thin she was extremely sensitive to these areas being touched. At first the pressure needed to be very slightly harder (about 1 ½) as the light touches were ticklish, causing her skin to ripple as she moved away and heavier touches caused her to move away immediately. As she became used to the touches it was possible to reduce the pressure to less than one.

As more of her body was gradually included in the touches the sessions extended to around two minutes. Although she was accepting the touches more readily she is still touch-sensitive and the sessions need to be kept short in order not to stress her unnecessarily and lose her confidence.

Clouded Leopard touches were used on her back, hips and back legs. At first it was only acceptable to do a single touch, over a period of weeks this was slowly extended to touches over her complete back, sides and legs.

After two month of daily sessions Pandora was no longer resistant to touch anywhere on her body although she always remained touch-sensitive. She was also getting up easier and moving more fluidly. Jumping was still an issue.

The sessions were extended to include Python Lifts on her hind legs and hip area. These needed to be extremely gentle and slow for her to feel comfortable. These were done in place of other touches so as not to make the sessions longer.

At the end of three months Pandora could jump as well as when she was 10 years younger; she was supple and can be touched all over her body.

18 months later, at 19 years of age, there is still no sign of arthritis or stiffening of the spine. Sessions have been reduced to around 30-40 seconds daily, sometimes even missing a day. Mainly Clouded Leopard touches are used and the session always ends with her favourite Racoon touches on her head. These short sessions are sufficient to keep Pandora fully mobile and are useful as the first indication of tenderness in the back; Python lifts and more Clouded Leopard touches for a day or two clear this up and she is back to full mobility.

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
2. When you look for a house, the first thing you check is how many dogs
you can kennel on the property.

The Uses of Pandemonium—A Trainer’s Take on Good Morning America by Karen Pryor

Sandra, an executive with the New York Humane Society, sometimes takes adoptable dogs on Good Morning America. Sandra tells me it’s usually just her, the dog, the hosts, the set, and the cameras. But this time it’s not like that.

The shelter is providing exactly what I requested for the GMA segment—a bouncy, friendly, young dog with little or no training. Mia is a 5- or 6-month-old purebred golden retriever. She was turned into the shelter by a family that had to move. Mia was adopted just two days ago by a very pretty young veterinarian named Nicole. Nicole will lend her back to us for the show.

The show is scheduled for Tuesday, June 16, 2009. I have agreed to meet Mia in a shelter exercise pen on Monday. GMA has sent a camera crew. I ascertain that Mia likes hotdogs. She knows her name. She’s sweet and gentle, but lively enough to make a good demo dog. The camera rolls while Mia learns about the clicker, gets the idea of hand targeting, and starts offering a sit.

After ten successful minutes (nearly 80 clicks and treats), she is weary and goes to the gate, looking for her new owner. "You bet, dog. Go home."

"We’re done here," I say.

"No, no," says Joe the camera guy. "I’m not through; I need more shots."

I refuse. "This is not a performing dog. This is a puppy. She’s tired."

Puppies are great at clicker work, but they get tired very, very quickly. However, Joe is desperate for another view of the sit. I give in, reluctantly, and let him film two more sits over my shoulder.

At the ABC TV studio

The next morning the GMA limo delivers me, and Aaron Clayton, to the ABC-TV stage door at 5:30 a.m. The plan is for the dog, her owner Nicole, and Sandra from the shelter to wait in a separate, and quiet, room until the 6:30 a.m. rehearsal, and then again until the 8:30 a.m. show. I don’t want the puppy to see me until we’re actually training. I don’t want her to glimpse me and get all excited and worn out.

It’s a long trip from the waiting rooms to the set. The dog and her handlers go in the elevator. To stay out of sight of the dog, the producer takes me, Aaron and Heidi Richter, my publicist from Scribner, up and down the stairs. We will all make this trip not twice, as I expected, but six times!

The first trip turns out to be a false alarm. The second trip is for the rehearsal. The set consists of a scrap of carpet, a couch, and a table for my hotdog container, all at one end of a big TV studio with windows onto the street.

We rehearse, with the producer standing in for the host. The dog comes on set and tries to get into the producer’s lap. A hand target gets her off—good. Mia jumps on me a few times. She locates and dives for the treat bowl, but she listens to her clicks and, by and by, comes, sits, and hand targets nicely. It’s a good training session, I think.


Then, and I did NOT expect this, we have to go THREE more times for what’s called a "bumper," a short live scene of me and the dog on the set. We do this so that Diane Sawyer and Robin Roberts, outside somewhere, can talk about what’s coming next, namely us.

The dog, of course, is getting tired. On about the fourth trip downstairs, while I’m keeping her busy until our five-second bumper is over, Mia loses focus entirely. She doesn’t react to the click, she skips eating the hotdogs, and she’s beginning to roam. Uh-oh.

I detect one source of the problem. It’s not just fatigue; it’s WAY too much stimulation. As we all head back up two flights, there are MANY more people around now—and they want to pet the dog. As the freight elevator door opens, revealing Nicole, Sandra, and Mia, I see a large man who is actually on his knees, rubbing and mauling the puppy’s head and ears, proving what a big dog lover he is.

The elevator group heads past us down the hall. Mia lies down in a doorway and another man lies on the carpet nose to nose with her, mugging the patient but bewildered puppy. I actually run down the hall to catch up. I tell Nicole and Sandra not to let people pet the puppy anymore, because it’s wearing her out.

I think they must have succeeded. For the next bumper session Mia is aware of her clicks and focusing again.

In the sound studio

Meanwhile, on each trip downstairs the stress and distractions get worse. I expected the huge cameras, lumbering around the room like robotic dinosaurs with their handlers and their black, ropy innards trailing behind them. I did not expect the rock band. Ashley Tisdale from High School Musical is performing this morning. The stage occupies the other half of the set. Between bouts of actual music, the band is emitting occasional warm-up blasts of incredibly loud sound. The music has the camera crews dancing—and me, too. It’s very infectious. But what is all this noise doing to the poor dog??

The next time a huge noise erupts, I click. I see Mia’s head snap round to me; she heard that! I run over to the dog and give her a treat. I see her relax a little.

"Ah ha! So, hearing a Very Loud Sound is a clickable moment? Well then." Pretty good for a puppy!

I was told there would be no audience, but on trips four and five the public has been let in. People are standing four and five deep all around the room, right up to, and even on, the little bit of carpet where the dog and I will work. Some are in costume. Some have signs, some have small children, some are sitting on the floor, and some are carrying food. It’s like being in the middle of a parade, or backstage at the opera: jam-crammed chaos. As the final touch of pandemonium, a bomb-sniffing dog is threading through the crowd’s legs, working the room.

The music starts up. Ashley belts out a song. The boom camera, right in front of me, sails its long neck and head through the air around the singer, near and far, above her, beside her—my goodness, what that guy can do with this machine! Who gets to see this? I stop worrying. This is enormous fun.


Trip six. It’s performance time. Nicole and the puppy have been stationed right next to the carpet, to make a quick entrance. Mia can handle this now.

"Sometimes I’m with the clicker lady, sometimes I’m with my person." She is calm.

The host, Chris Cuomo, has arrived. Naturally, he plays with the clicker. I dash over and hand Nicole a couple of treats.

"If he clicks, you pay Mia, okay?" With each of Chris Cuomo’s random clicks, Mia gets a treat.

Chris chats with me off camera, mostly telling me how he trains his Rottweilers. I have no comment. The viewing audience sees video of me coaching a condor trainer in a zoo. Then it’s our turn. The host makes some jokes, aiming the clicker like a remote. He then describes the assignment I had, "training a wild, uncontrollable puppy in one day."

"No, in ten minutes," I say. Oh.

Meanwhile, on the words "wild uncontrollable puppy" the camera switches to Mia. She is flat on her belly, chin on the floor, nose pressed against her person’s foot, falling asleep.

But she wakes to my voice, comes onto the set, and performs perfectly for two full minutes, providing a wonderful demo, and giving me lots to talk about. At the end, I suggest that the host click the dog. He sticks out a tentative hand. Mia promptly bumps it. He clicks and I treat. "I know this," says the dog. "I get this," thinks the host.

He leaves the set clutching a signed copy of the book because he wants to read the part about parenting. Good!

It’s a convincing demonstration, friends tell me later. If they only knew what was going on all around us, and what the puppy had already been through before trip six!

One last click

Aaron and I pack up and go downstairs again. The producer leads us toward the stage door through yet another mob of people. A football sails over my head and I turn around to look. Our host, behind me, is passing the ball back and forth with someone in another part of the crowd.

The ball flies over my head back to him again. Just as he reaches up and catches it, I click. He startles, looks at me, and calls out, "I wish I’d had that in high school. I’d have caught a lot more passes." Yes! He’s got it!

Clicking works; I know that. But once in a while it’s almost a shock. I felt it on the set with Mia, and now I feel it here. Oh my goodness. Look at that. It worked again!

Happy clicking,

With Kind permission from the Karen Pryor Website www.clickertraining.com

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
3. Your dog food bill is higher than your family's.

New 6-Week Class to start 10th February 2010


Our new classes will begin the 10th February 2010 and run for 6 weeks.


Saturday Mornings: 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.


This class will include 4 x three hour “Learning Theory” sessions on How Dogs learn and 6 practical sessions on Clicker Training with Dogs


If you have always wanted to learn a method of training that doesn’t need aversives to be effective, then join us for a Clicker Experience! Although Operant Conditioning and the Clicker have been around for many years, especially in the Marine World and in training many species of animals for film, it’s only in the last 10 years that it has started to become Mainstream in the Dog Training World. Here is your chance to catch up!


DATES:     Without dogs: Wednesday Evenings 6-9 p.m. (for 4 weeks starting

                   Feb. 10, 2010)
                   With dogs: Saturday mornings 9:30-11:30 a.m. (for 6 weeks) starting
                   Feb. 13, 2010

VENUE:                   Sandown– Johannesburg

BOOK:     Eugenie Chopin at eugenie@ttouch.co.za  or phone 011 884 3156 for more info.

COST:       Full Class: R1600: this includes the cost of the course, notes, treat
 bag, target stick and a clicker.


Learning Theory Only: R800: this includes evening lectures, File with notes& clicker

If you have been wondering what the fuss is all about, Clicker Training is basically about re-enforcing Behaviour that you want. It works on the principles of giving reward for correct behaviour rather than using corrections and aversives for unwanted behaviour. As a result, you can establish true respect from your dog without fear. It’s fun to do, the dogs love it and therefore gain in confidence and you can finally understand why they do the things they do and how your Behaviour and actions influence them daily!

NOTE: An aversive is anything the dog doesn’t like! So if you yell at your dog and it likes the attention, it might actually be a reward!


This class is designed to teach those who want to truly understand the concepts of Operant Conditioning, how animals learn, how to get through the barriers that stop the learning process and how to move forward in small enough steps to be successful in anything that you want to teach. If you are a Trainer, are interested in being a Trainer, or just are a dog owner who wants to understand more, then this might be the class for you!

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
4. You spend as much on veterinarians as family doctors


The dog is a social and inquisitive animal. He needs to do something, especially if left at home alone. What would you like your dog to do? Crosswords? Needlepoint? Watch soaps on the telly? You must provide some form of occupational therapy for your puppy to pass the day. If your puppy learns to enjoy chewing chewtoys, he will look forward to settling down quietly for some quality chewing time. It is important to teach your puppy to enjoy chewing chewtoys more than chewing household items. An effective ploy is to stuff the puppy’s chewtoys with kibble and treats. In fact, during your puppy’s first few weeks at home, put away his food bowl and, apart from using kibble as lures and rewards for training, serve all your puppy’s kibble stuffed in hollow chewtoys — Kongs, Biscuit Balls, Squirrel Dudes, Busy Buddy Footballs and sterilized bones.

For errorless chew toy-training, adhere to the puppy confinement program. When you are away from home, leave the puppy in his puppy playroom with bed, water, toilet, and plenty of stuffed chewtoys. While you are at home, leave the puppy in his doggy den with plenty of stuffed chewtoys. Every hour after releasing the pup to relieve himself, play chewtoy games — chew toy-search, chew toy-fetch, and chewtoy-tug-o’-war. Your puppy will soon develop a very strong chewtoy habit because you have limited his chewing choices to a single acceptable toy, which you have made even more attractive with the addition of kibble and treats.

Once your dog has become a chewtoyaholic and has not had a chewing (or house soiling) mishap for at least three months, you may increase your puppy’s playroom to two rooms. For each subsequent month without a mistake your puppy may gain access to another room, until eventually he enjoys free run of the entire house and garden when left at home alone. If a chewing mistake should occur, go back to the original puppy confinement program for at least a month.

In addition to preventing household destruction, teaching your puppy to become a chewtoyaholic prevents him from becoming a recreational barker because chewing and barking are obviously mutually exclusive behaviors. Also, chewtoyaholism helps your puppy learn to settle down calmly because chewing and dashing about are mutually exclusive behaviors.

Chewtoyaholism is especially useful for dogs with Obsessive Compulsive Disorder since it provides them with an acceptable and convenient means to work out their obsessions and compulsions. Your dog may still have OCD, but a chewtoyaholic will happily spend his time obsessively and compulsively chewing his stuffed chewtoys.

Most important, chewtoy chewing keeps the puppy occupied and effectively helps prevent the development of separation anxiety.

What Is a Chewtoy?

A chewtoy is an object for the dog to chew that is neither destructible nor consumable. If your dog destroys an object, you will have to replace it, and that costs money. If your dog consumes the object, you may have to replace your dog. Eating non-food items is extremely hazardous to your dog’s health.  The type of chewtoy you choose will depend on your dog’s penchant for chewing and his individual preferences. I have seen some dogs make a cow’s hoof or a compressed rawhide chewy last forever, whereas other dogs consume them in a matter of minutes. For years, I considered Kong products to be the Cadillacs of chewtoys. Now, there are other equally good products, such as Premier Pet Product’s Squirrel Dudes and Busy Buddy Footballs. Hollow sterilized long bones are a very close second choice. I like Kong and Premier products and sterilized bones because they are simple, natural, and organic, i.e., not plastic. Also, being hollow, they can be stuffed with food.

Dinner from Chewtoys, Not from Bowls

Customarily, puppies receive their entire daily allotment of kibble at dinner, which often becomes a jackpot reward for boisterously barking and expectantly bouncing around. Moreover, if you allow your puppy to wolf down dinner from a bowl, he will be at a loss for what to do for the rest of the day. In the wild, dogs spend a good 90 percent of their waking hours searching for something to eat, and so in a sense, regular bowl-feeding deprives a dog of his principal activity — searching for food. Instead, after eating, your inquisitive puppy will search for entertainment for the rest of the day. Most likely you will consider your puppy’s choices of occupation to be mischievous misbehaviour.

Without a doubt, regularly feeding a new puppy (or adult dog) from a bowl is the single most disastrous mistake in dog husbandry and training. Although unintentional, the effects of bowl-feeding are often severely detrimental for the puppy’s household manners and sense of well-being. In a sense, each bowl-fed meal steals the puppy’s raison d’etre — its very reason for being. Within seconds of gulping his meal, the poor pup now faces a mental void for the rest of his day with nothing but long, lonely hours to worry and fret, or work himself into a frenzy.

As the puppy adapts to fill the void, normal behaviors such as chewing, barking, strolling, grooming, and playing become stereotypical, repetitive, and maladaptive. Specific behaviors increase in frequency until they no longer serve any useful function except to pass the time. Investigative chewing becomes destructive chewing. Alarm barking becomes incessant barking. Strolling from one place to another becomes repetitively pacing, or racing back and forth. Investigating a shadow or light becomes a neurotic fixation. Routine grooming becomes excessive licking, scratching, tail-chasing, head-pressing, or in extreme cases, self-mutilation.

Stereotyped behaviors cause the release of endorphins, perpetuating their repetition, and in a sense, the dog becomes drugged and hooked on mindless, repetitive activity. Stereotyped behaviors are like behavioural cancers; as they progressively increase in frequency and squeeze most useful and adaptive responses from the dog’s behavior repertoire until eventually the "brain-dead" dog spends hours on end barking, pacing, chewing himself, or simply staring into space.

A vital facet of your puppy’s early education is to teach him how to peacefully pass the time of day. Feeding your puppy’s kibble only from hollow chew toys keeps your puppy happily occupied and content for hours on end. It allows the puppy to focus on an enjoyable activity so that he doesn’t dwell on his loneliness. Each piece of extracted kibble also rewards your puppy for settling down calmly, for chewing an appropriate chew toy, and for not barking.

Chew toy Stuffing

An old chewtoy becomes immediately novel and exciting when stuffed with food. If you use kibble from your puppy’s normal daily ration your puppy will not put on weight. To protect your puppy’s waistline, heart, and liver, it is important to minimize the use of treats in training. Use kibble as lures and rewards for teaching basic manners and reserve freeze-dried liver treats for initial housetraining, for meeting children, men, and strangers, as a garnish for stuffing Kongs (see below), and as an occasional jackpot reward for especially good behavior.

Kong Stuffing 101

The basic principle of Kong stuffing ensures that some food comes out quickly and easily to instantly reward your puppy for initially contacting his chew toy; bits of food come out over a long period of time to periodically reward your puppy for continuing to chew; and some of the best bits never come out, so your puppy never loses interest. Squish a small piece of freeze-dried liver in the small hole in the tip of the Kong so your puppy will never be able to get it out. Smear a little honey around the inside of the Kong, fill it up with kibble, and then block the big hole with crossed dog biscuits.

There are numerous creative variations on basic Kong stuffing. One of my favourite recipes comprises moistening your puppy’s kibble, spooning it into the Kong, and then putting it in the freezer overnight—a Kongsicle! Your dog will love it.

Kong Is King!

If from the outset you always confine your puppy with a selection of stuffed Kongs and Biscuit Balls, chewing these appropriate chew toys will soon become an integral part of his day. Your puppy will quickly develop a socially acceptable Kong habit. And remember, good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits. Your puppy will now spend a large part of his day musing over his Kong products.

Let’s pause for a moment to consider all the bad things your puppy will not be doing if he is quietly engaged with his chew toys. He will not be chewing inappropriate household and garden items. He will not be a recreational barker. (He will still bark when strangers come to the house, but he will not spend all day barking for barking’s sake.) And he will not be running around, fretting, and working himself up if left at home alone.

The wonderful thing about teaching a puppy to enjoy chewing chew toys is that this activity excludes many alternative, extremely annoying puppy behaviors. A stuffed Kong is one of the best stress-relievers, especially for anxious, obsessive, and compulsive dogs.

A Kong for a dog is also one of the best stress-relievers for the owner. There is no single device that so easily and so simply prevents or resolves so many bad habits and behavior problems.

Settle Down and Shush

High on the educational agenda is to teach your pup that there are times for play and times for quiet. Specifically, you want to teach the youngster to settle down and shush for short periods. Your life will be more peaceful, and your pup’s life will be less stressful once he learns that frequent little quiet moments are the name of the game in his new home.

Beware the trap of smothering your new puppy with non-stop attention and affection during his first days at home, for then he will whine, bark, and fret when left alone at night, or during the daytime when you are at work and the children are at school. Of course the pup is lonely! This is his first time alone without his mother, littermates, or human companionship.

You can really help to ease your pup’s anxiety by getting him used to settling down alone during his first few days at home. Remember, first impressions are very important and long lasting. Also keep in mind that the average suburban puppy will likely spend many hours and days left to his own devices. So it is well worthwhile to teach the pup how to spend time by himself. Otherwise, the puppy may become anxious when left alone and develop hard-to-break chewing, barking, digging, and escaping habits.

When you are at home, confine your puppy to his doggy den with lots of chew toys for housetraining, chew toy-training, and teaching the pup to settle down peacefully and happily. It is important to confine your puppy for short periods when you are home in order to teach him how to enjoy his own company when left at home alone.

I am certainly not advocating leaving puppies alone for long periods of time. But it is a fact of modern day life that many puppy owners leave home each day to work for a living, so it is only fair to prepare the pup for this.

When you are at home, the key is short-term confinement. The idea is not to lock up the puppy for hours on end, but rather to teach him to settle down quickly in a variety of settings and be confined for variable but mostly fairly short, periods. Make sure the only objects within reach are stuffed chew toys. Thus the dog develops a strong chew toy habit right from the outset, if only because there is precious little else at hand to chew. And let me repeat: A puppy happily preoccupied with a stuffed chew toy is not destroying household articles and furniture, and is not barking.
When you are at home, it is also a good idea to occasionally confine your puppy to his puppy playroom (long-term confinement area) as a practice run for your absence. Occasional long-term confinement when you are at home allows you to monitor your pup’s behavior so you have some idea how he will act when you are gone.

If your puppy barks or whines when confined to his short- or long-term confinement area, reward-train him to rest quietly. Sit next to your puppy’s crate or just outside his puppy playroom and busy yourself by reading a book, working on the computer, or watching television. Completely ignore your puppy while he vocalizes, but each time he stops barking, immediately praise him calmly and offer a piece of kibble.


With Kind Permission from Dr. Ian Dunbar and Dog Star Daily

Adapted from BEFORE You Get Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar

For more great articles on www.dogstardaily.com

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
5. You have no money because of showing dogs.

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

õ        Blue Hills / Kyalami, Puppy 1 and Older Dogs Sunday Mornings Tracy McQuarrie 083 222 5180

õ            Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

õ           Bryanston, Puppy 1&2, Classes Wednesday evening & Saturday afternoon.
           Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433

õ        Cape Town; Puppy Socialization Saturday afternoons, call Debbie on 083 992
            8767 or email Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net

õ            Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends.  Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

õ            Durbanville: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. Ongoing: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 9790848 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

õ            Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, Every Sunday; contact Ilze van der Walt:

zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

õ            Hermanus, Gordon’s Bay, Somerset West: Puppy l & ll. Tel 082 490 1650 and e-mail janina@krugerphotography.co.za

õ            Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

õ            Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses on Saturday afternoons R480 Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

õ            Pretoria – Lynnwood Glen & Waterkloof Glen, Puppy classes for pups until 16 weeks and Basic obedience classes (using clicker training) for dogs 16 weeks and older.  Contact Anelize 079 272 4249 or Manuela 076 427 9166

õ            Randpark Ridge: Puppy Socialising with Clicker, 7 Week courses on Saturday mornings. Wendy Wilson, 083 336 1761 overthemoon@iafrica.com

õ            Sandringham: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays & Weekday evenings ongoing. Kim Heller 082 570 0463 kimh@kti.co.za

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
6. You have to buy more than one vehicle a year, because you keep burning
out the 7 year or 70,000 mile warranty going to shows

Tales Cat Tails Can Tell

From Animal Behavior Associates May 2008 Newsletter

One key to understanding the motivation and emotions of animals is their body language. Among the most expressive body parts of our four-legged friends are their tails.

In cats, the position and movement of the tail can help indicate mood and intentions. For example, cats that are fearful tend to hold their tails down and tuck them underneath their legs. Cats that are agitated and threatening will lash their tails back and forth. What does it mean when a cat holds his tail straight up when approaching another individual?

This tail-up posture is not only an indicator of friendliness, but also serves as a friendly social signal, according to research by Charlotte Cameron- Beaumont. She observed interactions among feral cats and found that the tail up posture tended to precede other friendly behaviors including sniffing and face rubbing

To show that it really was the tail position, and not other behaviors or postures that were signalling friendliness, she performed an experiment. Cameron- Beaumont presented cats with cardboard silhouettes of other cats that either had the tail up vertically or the tail down below the horizontal plane.

She found the cats exposed to the tail up models tended to raise their own tails and approach the silhouette more quickly than cats exposed to the tail down silhouettes. Cats exposed to the tail up model were also less likely to respond with tail lashing or tucking their tails. What the tail up posture probably signals is that the cat showing it isn’t a threat to other cats or people and intends to engage in friendly behavior.

An interesting application of this information involves introducing unfamiliar cats to each other, such as when a family brings home a new cat to join their resident cats. The initial interactions between cats are very important, and if the cats can be friendly and relaxed, it will reduce stress and make for a smoother introduction.

If both the new cat and the resident cat could be induced to raise their tails at the sight of the other cat, it might facilitate friendly interactions. It is certainly possible to train cats to engage in a variety of behaviors on cue and training cats to raising their tails should be possible. Using clicker training to teach the cat to raise his tail on cue would be one way to do this.

It may be difficult to get a fearful or threatening cat to raise his tail, because of the way that strong emotions influence behavior, but if the cat isn’t already fearful or threatening, having him show the tail up posture may facilitate further friendly interactions and make the introduction more successful. The alternative might be to strap a cardboard cut-out of a tail on the cat’s back and hope the other cat thinks it’s real (just kidding!)


Written by Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D., and Daniel Estep,

Ph.D. An edited version of this article first appeared in

the Rocky Mountain News. Reprinted with permission from

www.AnimalBehaviorAssociates.com where you can find more

articles, services and products, and subscribe to ?Pet

Behavior One Piece at a Time?, a free ezine.-----

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
7. You have more pictures of your dogs than of your family

TICKS & FLEAS: What Should I Do About Fleas and Ticks?

United Animal Nations is pleased to share these tips on how to deal with fleas and ticks, which are usually most troublesome to pets in the warm summer weather. Fortunately, prevention and treatment are fairly simple, as you’ll discover in these Frequently Asked Questions.

The information below offers suggested remedies, and should not be regarded as comprehensive. Please contact your veterinarian for more information.

Read on to learn more ...


How often should I check my pets for ticks or fleas?

Pets should be checked at least once a week for ticks, fleas, or skin irritations. If you discover a tick, remove it gently, using fine-point tweezers as close to the skin as possible (making sure to grasp the tick where the mouth parts are embedded into the skin).

Bites from ticks can be deadly to animals and humans. Ticks carry Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and other potentially fatal diseases. You can find more information on ticks and fleas at the U.S. Food & Drug Administration’s "Fighting Fleas and Ticks" page and at other veterinary Web sites.

A good time to check for fleas and ticks is when you bathe your dog. Bathing your dog will help keep away odor, parasites, and skin irritations. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap, which can cause itching and hair loss.



Is it enough just to kill any fleas found on my pet?

Even a single adult flea on a dog or cat indicates a major infestation that must be treated.

At any given time, only 5% of the flea population is in the adult stage; the other 95% consists of pupae, larvae, and eggs. One female flea can lay more than 800 eggs in her six-week lifetime. An egg can become an adult flea, ready to reproduce, in less than three weeks. Within only 30 days, just 10 fleas can produce 250,000 children and grandchildren.

The flea’s diet consists of blood. Each flea feeds about once every hour, so an animal with only 25 fleas could be bitten as many as 600 times in one day.

An excess of fleas can make your pet anaemic. Constant scratching can cause hair loss, and allergies to fleas can cause hot spots. Animals can also develop large open, oozing wounds due to fleabites. All of these conditions are dangerous to a pet’s health and expensive to treat. It’s best to treat an infestation as early as possible


How can I rid my pet of fleas?


The fine teeth of a flea comb will pull most of the adults and eggs off a pet. Combing your animal regularly will quickly determine whether or not fleas are present.

Flea shampoos are an effective means of killing fleas on a pet, but they are species-specific. (Never use a shampoo meant for dogs on cats.) Follow the instructions carefully. For best results, start lathering at the neck and work back to the tail. Be sure to soap the tail, legs, and underbelly completely. When done, rinse your pet as thoroughly as possible and towel dry.


Flea shampoos are better than flea powders or sprays or dips, since when properly rinsed no flea toxins remain to make your pet ill.

A flea collar may help kill fleas, but it’s little more than a poison strap worn by a pet. Also, its effectiveness against fleas deteriorates over time and it must be changed regularly.


After treatment, prevention is necessary. Flea eggs or pupae can stay in a dormant state for months, growing to maturity when conditions for them "improve." You must get rid of them now, both inside and, if your animals are indoor/outdoor, outside as well.


How can I prevent fleas on my pet?


Many people use preventive medicines (such as Frontline, Program or Advantage) on their pets. These medications kill adult fleas and/or inhibit the growth of flea larvae. Consult your veterinarian about the risks and benefits of these products.

Treatment of a pet should be done in conjunction with treatment of the areas in which the pet spends time.


How can I prevent fleas inside my house?


Vacuum regularly. Because fleas thrive on the contents of the vacuum cleaner bag, sprinkle some flea powder on the floor or carpet and vacuum that up, too. Dispose of the bag after vacuuming.

"Flea bombs" that contain an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) prevent flea larvae from maturing, thus breaking the infestation cycle within a house. IGRs must be used in every room in a house in order to be effective. These products can be toxic to humans and other animals; research the side effects of IGR "bombs" before using.



How can I prevent fleas outside my house?


Fleas and ticks love tall grass, so mow and edge your yard well to eliminate this ideal breeding ground.

Some people prevent fleas by spraying toxic chemicals on their lawns. What’s heavily toxic to fleas, however, will kill beneficial insects, and may also harm pets or humans. This approach should be used only after thorough research and with caution.

Several natural and/or nontoxic flea control approaches exist, including use of beneficial nematodes and diatomaceous earth. Nurseries and garden shops can be good sources of information on these methods.


Many thanks to http://www.mydogiscool.com/ for permission to use this article!

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
8. Your idea of a fun vacation is to hit a show circuit

You definitely have the disease (stage 2) if:
9. Most of your conversations revolve around the dogs

Observation is Fascinating

Watching animal behaviour is endlessly fascinating. Each day things happen that can give us insight to our pets. I’ll give you a few examples:

As you may know, Shanti, my GSP has an issue with Angelique, my older Golden. So to keep peace in the bedroom, in the evening before sleep and in the morning with coffee Shanti is allowed time on the bed, but is tethered so I don’t have to worry. It’s a good time to bond and do a bit of TTouch on her for her Spondylosis, etc.


Now while Harley sometimes comes onto the bed with her, it’s obvious that at other times, he is hesitant. I’m guessing he is reading Shanti’s body language. Of course, being Harley, a bouncy young GR, he sometimes just jumps on the bed anyway! What is always interesting to me is that the second I crate Shanti for the night, he jumps quickly onto the bed as though, “well, she’s gone now, so it’s my turn”.


So in the morning, I usually have a cuddle & play with Harley before I let Shanti come up. The next interesting tidbit is that when Shanti and Harley leave the bedroom to start their day, Angelique loves to go lie in Shanti’s crate, which is really comfortable, as we have added so many things to help her body. Now what does all this mean? Truthfully, I have no idea, but I can make some guesses! For both Angelique and Harley, they take advantage of what is considered a “prime spot” from their viewpoint. Remember that one important resource in a dog’s like can be a particular “space”. And these times give them the access that they might not have otherwise.


In the meantime, I’m trying to figure out how to give Shadow, the cat access to the upper cupboard in the bedroom. She has been coming in and racing up the curtain to the pelmet above. From here she wants into the upper cupboard where suitcases are stored, so I have to open the doors (in the right way, mind you) so she can slip in and sleep there for the night. Now, I have drawers that I open for her to get to the top of the lower cupboard, but no, that’s not good enough. So now I’m wondering if I’ll have to lean a ladder against the cupboard, as I can’t think of any other way to give her access without ruining the curtains!


A couple of days ago, I saw Shadow walk out of the bedroom window into a beautifully flowering Bougainvillea. I thought, “what a great picture” and raced to get my camera. Little did I know that she was venturing out in order to reach a nest of baby birds recently born. Unfortunately she got one before I banned her from the bedroom until the others could fly away. This is really the time of year that we have to watch our cats, as their instinct is truly predatory.


Last night Shadow didn’t come in when called, so she was outside during the night. We have set up a crate for her with bedding so she has a place to crawl into once she’s finished with the nightly activities. Unfortunately about 4: 30 a.m. I was awakened by distinct howling and name calling (kitty speak). Not being about to get back to sleep, I decided to go looking for the gal. Boy was she ready to come inside. She even let me hold her for a long time. (Her usually limit in arms is about 30 seconds to a minute). This morning she was quite happy to lie in my arms and be TTouched. It does make you wonder exactly what went on outside!

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
1. You wake up in the morning and find out you put the kids in the crates
and the dogs in the beds last night.

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
2. You know each dog's name and pedigree, but can't figure out whom that
stranger in the house is, and it turns out of be your spouse.


Hi there Robyn and Eugenie, just had to share this with you both. I see the power of TTouch on a daily basis and the changes that occur, but yesterday took my breath away!

Natasha, who was on the last Prac course has a little dog, Chinese Crested mix, 6 months old called Smalley, who is one of the cutest little dogs I have ever met. The WetNose Centre in Bronkhorstpruit rescued her at one day old from that terrible puppy mill shown on Carte Blanche, and Natasha took on her care. It is thought that this little one is brain damaged and she battles to eat, doesn’t want to be touched, especially on her legs (which are a bit pink at the bottom) and her tummy. She obliviously did not have the proper sucking reflex as a pup and although she will eat food from a bowl on the floor, has been incapable of eating from the hand. You offer the food, she opens her mouth like a little bird, and then she throws her head back and swallows. She also looks like a baby Gazelle when she walks on lead, pulling and bouncing. She has regular temper tantrums and Natasha says that these often culminate in her opening her mouth wide (and I noticed at times the mouth is almost sideways), screaming and then biting or bolting. She ‘communicates’ with puppy like whimpers and although she uses her scent capabilities a lot, has great difficulty in finding any piece of food on the floor.

It is thought that her eyesight is also not great. I did notice that she is showing some almost stereotypical behaviour and Natasha says that she will sometimes attack her own tail. That Natasha managed to pull this little dog through is an absolute miracle and a credit to her and she has done a fantastic job.

Well, when I heard all this at lunch time one day, and Natasha not being sure what action to take with the dog, I said that if she could bring her to J’burg I would try to help and work with her and show Natasha which TTouches and Groundwork to use – hell, who could resist!

We started yesterday and I showed Natasha what Linda taught us – that of putting your hands on your heart, putting your heart in your hands and then putting your hands on the dog with no expectations. We progressed well, we did some TTouches while she was walking around (very short increments) then we sat with her and I showed Natasha what to do with temper tantrums ‘settle and free’ and I started to do very short increments of TTouches stopping before she had enough. Shortly she was accepting TTouches all over her body, her legs and tummy and asking for more. I managed to do a modicum of mouth work and the tantrums had improved a lot.

We then did a bit of Groundwork. I didn’t use any different leading equipment as I felt she wouldn’t cope (Natasha had also said she had tried the balance lead with no success) so we kept her on her normal lead. Put up some different surfaces (which I find are the best for dogs with fear) and she wouldn’t go near them. I put on the Vet Wrap which I thought would be lighter and she promptly walked over two different surfaces with no problems, she also settled down and walked on lead with no pulling or antics. In addition to the surfaces she managed the tyres as well. We stopped Groundwork on a successful note.   

We then sat with her and I showed Natasha the TTouches I had used (a bit of everything, and asked her to do as much mouth work and Groundwork as possible in different locations) and I then put on a face wrap as I thought it may help to make her more aware of her mouth and who knows, perhaps influence the Limbic system. We left it on for a second or two, took it off and did this again twice with Natasha learning how to do it. The hardest part then came – we stopped!  She had made so much progress that I didn’t want to push our luck. I couldn’t resist offering her a little bit of chicken before they left, and when I did, she opened her mouth and took it from my fingers and chewed it – no throwing head back and swallowing! That, needless to say, resulted in her having quite a lot of chicken and every small mouthful had the same result.  

Both of us were just so moved by this, and all I can say is that Natasha was not the only one with tears in her eyes! Natasha phoned me when she got home and told me that Smalley, instead of sitting all crunched up in the car had slept all the way back to Rayton fully stretched out – who can say, maybe it was the TTouch, maybe she was exhausted, maybe it was both! Natasha will continue to work with her at home and we are going to have another session together next week.

Take care and lots love,


EDITOR’S NOTE: Scotty is a TTouch Practitioner 1 for Companion Animals. You’ll find more about her at http://www.scottysdogs.co.za/




Hi there


I am so grateful to you for the 6 week TTouch introduction, the learning that has taken place ever since, amazes me and has truly made a difference in my life an that of my animals.

Having more dogs than common sense dictates, with only two of them not having seriously been traumatized at one point in time, gives me such an opportunity to observe, practice and learn. And TTouch is actually just beginning to amaze me. Maybe some of these stories are worth sharing - you have seen and heard them all before - and they will brighten your day - for sure.



Max is a husky x GSD, neutered male +/- 4 yrs - was run over as a puppy, has a solid metal pin in his leg and walks with a limp, came to us as the result of a divorce, was very attached to the husband and I suspect ill treated by the wife. I was not able to touch him for a year - I looked at him and he would scream, literally, he had a good relationship with my husband so I left him alone. Gradually (because I am insistent and do not give up) I was able to touch him. Around May 2009 - 2009 being my begging journey year of TTouch - Max jumped, howled, limped - he must have seriously misstepped. I called him and he gave me "the look" (whatcha gonna try and do to me) but stood still, so I talked to him, doing clouded leopard touches about 2 cm above his sore leg, as I could not touch him in any case. Max watched, I carried on, gradually touching him with a pressure 1. He suddenly got up .....    and walked - looked back at me - and carried on walking, no pain, yelping or limping.

Ever since then I am allowed to touch him and he comes to me when he hurts.

Yesterday I got hold of him and did little raccoon touches around his ears - he heaved such a sigh, I think he expelled air of the past 3 years or so.



Our newest addition - rescue NDS spayed female, +/- 1 year. We could not touch her in her foster home enclosure, I finally managed to grab hold of her, put a half wrap on, did some ear work and bundled her into our car, where she immediately went and lay down in a corner, no panting, no agitation - as I had expected.

That was three weeks ago.

In the meantime she has meet another 9 dogs, with whom she roams the property, has had another wrap on - which she chewed through, as mom was not looking, had a few ear sessions and body sessions, has claimed our house (she has never before been inside), checks our fences and warns us if there are any people around. Her whole demeanour after each session changed, with her becoming more secure, confident, happy and lighter on her feet - she has jumping sessions with our young husky, it looks like tiptoe ballet.



We have dogfights, not too many, but we do and some have to see the vet. One GSD had a bad tear next to her eye, it looked as if she would loose the eye. The vet did a remarkable job, but I do believe that the touches above the injured area (in the air 2 -3 cm above the wounds) helped the healing process tremendously. No, she did not like it in the beginning, after the first two circles she started sitting still and thereafter would sit still every time I told her I would do touches.

Our 2 yr old male Jack Russell had a fight, his head above the eye was badly torn and I saw things I do not want to see - off to the vet. Brilliant stitches, a very concerned vet, touches above the areas, 2 weeks later the hair has grown back, and nothing is really visible.

And while waiting for the vet to attend to us, we always do ear work - bleeding and horrendous looking dogs are then attentive, relatively relaxed and amazingly unstressed when the vet sees them.


There is never enough time to work with the animals it seems, but sitting and doing a little bit of ear work, seems to have made them all a bit more peaceful, relaxed and less needy of attention.


Have a great weekend,






Dear Eugenie

Thank you for the wonderful demo and great afternoon had by all at the ’small critters day’. It was an afternoon that my cat Skye, and I have not forgotten!

The bunnies, birds, amazing iguana and tortoise are not a combo easily beaten...

Skye came home with confidence and a healthy sense of self importance - I think she’s been telling me she would be quite happy to have another visit to a "small critters" day, at least once a week!!! She’s bright and wanting to enjoy life, since!

Also thank you to your wonderful TTouch practitioners, who are so skilled and kind.

Robyn Hood together with critters was very special to watch, and a learning experience, needless to say.

Thank you for such an enriching afternoon.


Best wishes

Carol Semin, and Skye 

 Dear Eugenie

Many thanks for the wonderful weekend workshop Willow and I attended in August and thank you all for your time and patience. A particular thank you to Louise who drew my attention to problems, which I didn’t realize Willow had.  Willow’s constant barking in the car has improved but we are still working on it, and with time I am sure that we will curb it altogether.

It was such a pity that I could not have brought along Kayla, my Ridgeback, but unfortunately as she suffers with nervous aggression it would not have been advisable, because of our accommodation arrangements.  She also gets extremely stressed during thunderstorms and will jump over the fence out of the garden given half a chance.  When we had our first storm of the season, she and Ditto (one of our Jack Russells) were almost insane.  Luckily I was at home, so out came the body wrap. It worked beautifully.  She gradually calmed down and climbed onto the sofa and relaxed!  It’s the first time that she has gone through a thunderstorm without pacing around the house.  Unfortunately I didn’t have one for Ditto, so I put his doggie jersey on, which seemed to work.  It looks like I’ll have to invest in a JR sized wrap, as the jersey will be too hot for the summer.

Our dog club members were very interested to see what we had learned.  Are there any TTouch Practitioners in our area or would someone be willing to come down to Nelspruit to give a workshop, possibly some time next year? It really would be lovely if it could be arranged.  Perhaps one on horses too?

Kind regards

Jo Taylor

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
3. Your neighbors keep insisting that those kids running around your house
bothering the dogs are yours.

a. Book of the Month: How to RIGHT a Dog gone WRONG by Pamela S. Dennison - A Roadmap for Rehabilitating Aggressive Dogs


“This is a fabulous resource for the everyday dog owner who suddenly finds himself dealing with the challenges of an aggressive dog. How to Right a Dog Gone Wrong makes it easy to understand why our dogs sometimes behave in scary ways, and gives owners easy to follow recommendations to help their dogs succeed and thrive. Ths book will top my “must-read” list for clients with aggressive dogs.” - Melissa Alexander, author of “Click for Joy” .


EDITOR’S NOTE: I’ve dipped enough into this book to know that I want to read more. It starts out by explaining the things that we, as owners do to accelerate the aggression, which it so important for people to understand. One of my favourite paragraphs is:

You must give up using punishment as a method for controlling aggressive behaviour. The Merck Veterinary Manual, in “Behavioural Problems Associated with Canine Aggression,” states: “Almost without exception, physical punishment, including the use of prong collars and electric shock collars, alpha rolls, and dominance downs can make an already aggressive dog worse. Owners should be discouraged from using these techniques.”


There are now many great books coming out to encourage teaching your dog what you want it to do, rather than punishing it for what you don’t want. We at Tellington TTouch can only say “Hoorah!”

b: Website of the Month: www.clickerdogs.com

Susan Barrett is a great proponent of Clicker Training and has written a couple of books on shaping, weave poles, jumping, etc. Go have a look at the articles section for some interesting reading!


Return to Top

 c: Interesting Links

  • Jean Donaldson has a video about how to condition your dog to the Gentle
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wakterNyUg; Of course, this is useful for acclimatizing to any Head Collar or in fact any new piece of equipment.



You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
4. You keep telling the kids to "heel" and can't understand why they won't
and why they keep objecting to the choke chain.

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
5. You cash in the kids' college trust fund to campaign dogs.
18.   EVENTS
FOR A – Walk a Mile for a Million with your dog at Walkhaven on 21st November 2009.  For more info http://www.fora.org.za/  or www.walkhaven.co.za

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
6. You've been on the road showing so long you can't remember where you



Pasha is a female Maltese cross Terrier age approx 8 years with large Yorkshire type ears and Scottie beard.  She is white with champagne on her back.  Pasha went missing from 78 Cedar Street, Northcliff on Sunday 20/09/09. 
Please contact Caron Maree with any information 083 484 5512



Sushi is a 9 month old ginger and white female and is a lap cat. Peppa is 1 ½ year old grey and white female and will be great with children as she loves to play. Both are sterilized and are very friendly, affectionate cats. It would be great if they could be homed together, but not essential.
Contact Yulandi on 082-8962156 or yulandi@shiman.co.za.

New Loving home urgently needed for Black Mother cat and her kittens.  They are currently with people who want to send them to the SPCA very soon -because the girlfriend does not like cats.  They are currently in Kempton Park and the contact person who can be contacted is Adriaan @ 082 8252 486 for more information.

Owner is terminally ill and is looking for a loving home for two cats.  Mortica is a black 17 year old spayed female and Star is a 17 year old spayed tortoiseshell. 
Please contact Laney 082 570 9119 or info@maxtrax.co.za



Red male 7yrs - Kai

Red female 7yrs - Xanadu

Would be best for these two to go together


Highly pedigreed black male 4yrs (all genetic disorders, hip dysplasia etc free) - Kahn

Highly pedigreed cream female 3 yrs (ditto) - Lily Chou

Would be best for these two to go together


All kiss and clap trained (kiss for come here, clap for go away!)


Not good with cats. All are sterilised. Have pedigree papers. Have vet books - but not up to date

Contact Jade 082 256 1001


Owner relocating and cannot take dogs with her.  They don’t need to go to the same home, just a good one.  They are outside all day and come inside in the evening.

Flora is 11  

Lady is 9

Harley 8

For more information, please contact Julie on 082 4511 728 or Anne on 0823304419 or work 0115407946


Urgent appeal for Nessie the Jack Russell.  She is a year old and dewormed, vaccinated, spayed and micro chipped. Very sweet and lively.   However she is very possessive and jealous of her owner. Sadly Nessie doesn’t tolerate dogs, cats or children.  She needs to be an only dog, no other pets.  She also needs to be in a home with a double gate system (front and back garden divided) because she has a nasty habit of running out of the gate and wanting her owners to play catch!!!

Contact Wendy on 083 235 5362 


Macenroe: Neutered Male, 4 Years, Lab

Jessie: Spayed Female, 4 years, x black

Both of us are great with Kids, house trained and sleep inside and used to being outside during the day. 

We would like to stay together as we are like brother and sister and are each other’s playmates.

We are both in excellent health, micro-chipped and all vaccinations are up to date.

If you are interested or know of any one who is, please contact Tanya 082 771 1548



We have seven ex-working dogs below that need to be put on full retirement.  If you are interested in any of the seven, please contact : pieter@minetech.co.za / 082 371 4790 (Location Pretoria):


Dale is a 3 and a half year old male Springer Spaniel.  He is very soft and not suitable for our kind of work.  He will thrive in a home where he will receive lots of love and affection and can spend his days playing with the kids.

Teegan is an 8 year old Malinois male.  He worked as a mine detection dog in Lebanon for one year and as an explosive detection dog in Iraq for four years.  Teegan is gentle dog and would love a family where he can relax and spend time with the kids.


Carlo is a male Malinois of 8 years.  He has worked as both a mine detection and an explosive detection dog in Iraq for a total of five years.  He is an energetic dog that would best suit a home that does not have children


Sukay is an 8 year old male Malinois.  He worked in Macedonia and Kuwait as a mine detection dog for two years.  After that he worked as an explosive detection dog in Iraq for two years.  He is a calm and gentle old man. Would love a family that has lost of love to give. Children would not be problematic.


Bill is a 7 year old Labrador male.  He worked as an explosive detection dog in Iraq for three years.  Bill would be best suited in a home that does not have any children.  He would be very protective of his owners and property.


Rexy is a 6 year old Malinois male.  He worked as an explosive detection and patrol dog in Iraq for three years.  He will defiantly protect his new home and would prefer there not to be any small children.


           Blu is a male Malinois of 7 years old. He worked as both a patrol and explosive detection dog in Iraq for three 
           years.  Blu is best suited for a home that does not have any children.  He would protect his new home with vigor.

You are a terminal case (stage 3) if:
7. Your family tells you, “It’s either the dogs, or us!” and you choose the dogs.

Do you have this dreaded disease? Well, there is hope. In the course of our
research, we have found most cases seem to stop at stage 2, and remain
chronic. We have, with great difficulty, managed to acquire several stage 3
ACOS patients. They are currently in our isolation wards where we are
studying them to gain a better understanding of this disease. It is a sad
sight, seeing these formerly vibrant people as they shuffle around their
rooms in an endless triangle or L-pattern, making old hand motions (holding
a leash) and making chirping noises or repeatedly saying "cookie" in a
high-pitched voice. Merely saying the word "Westminster" can send them into
an uncontrollable frenzy. Unfortunately, there isn't much hope for these
cases, but with time and research, we hope to further understand this
disease, and come up with a cure. We are now attempting to isolate the
causative agent, and may be able to develop a vaccine in the future.

An interesting sidelight of this disease seems to be that exposure at an
early age has an immunizing effect. Several people with ACOS at stage 2 and
3 have close family members (children and spouses) who have absolutely no
signs of the disease. It is thought by some of our researchers that his may
be due to some environmental effects, to an age-related immune function, or
may be due to the fact that people in these stages of the disease tend not
to associate with their close family members. This is possibly due to the
memory deficit induced by the disease-that is, in laymen's terms, they don't
remember they have close family members.

What can you do to prevent this disease? Until a cure is found, prevention
is the best measure. Avoid kennels advertising, "show stock," since it may be
dogs who are carriers of the disease. Leave town on days the local
newspapers inform you of a dog show in the area. If you inadvertently come
into contact with an ACOS afflicted person, shower, preferably with
germicidal soap. If you are living with one, take comfort in the fact that
if you "haven's succumbed yet, you are probably safe.
© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.