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14.   EVENTS
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Hello TTouch Friends,

I’ve just had the privilege of spending a week in the Bush at Kruger National Park. I do say a privilege, as going into such nature is truly a Spiritual Experience! I found myself overwhelmed more than once with the sheer beauty of my surroundings and the land itself. There is nothing like the early morning light and mist in the mountains and pictures don’t seem to do it justice. Of course, it might just be me and my camera!

I did see the “Big Five/Six’ but every small creature was a treasure. The grey duiker in the riverbed, the sweetness of the giraffe, the majesty of the Kudu, the antics of the warthogs, the power of the lions and the beauty of the Impala. All were special in their own way. Going into the Bush is the best break anyone can have!

But now I’m back in the office and very excited about the upcoming trainings. At the end of the month, we’ll be graduating newly qualified Practitioners and I LOVE doing that! Then in October we start a new class for Companion Animal Practitioners. This class is now full, but we have good news!

Sarah Fisher, star of TV’s “Talking with Animals’ will be here to teach next year! Many of you have seen her on National Geographic Wild in the last couple of years and now there is an opportunity to work with her. Our second Intro workshop for the new Companion Animal Program will be taught by Sarah on January 30th to February 3rd, 2010. She will also be teaching session 2 of this same program in April, along with a TTEAM Equine workshop. So let us know now if you want to be part of this fantastic experience.

And of course we are about to welcome Robyn Hood back to South Africa. Make sure you read about Robyn in our TTouch Tips secion.

We are very excited about offering our first ever “Small Critter Day” on Sept. 24th! If you have interesting pet at home (not dogs) and want to learn more about working with them, then contact me on info@ttouch.co.za and come and join us for the afternoon.

Happy Spring! Are you as glad as I am that it’s here?

Warmest Regards,

Eugenie Chopin

Certified Practitioner III for Companion Animals



TTACT IV will have its second Intro Jan 30 – Feb 3, 2010

If you are interested in this program and want to get started, we recommend a weekend workshop or weekly class. This will give you a taste of the work to see how it can affect your own pets. We are taking Pre-Registration forms now and will start asking for deposits very shortly For you Capetonians and others around the country, this is well worth your while to travel!

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year lasting between 5 & 7 days.  You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of the Intro training, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT IV class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at www.ttouch.co.za and have a look at the workshop page.

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc.


We endeavour to help the student to be proficient and confident in the TTouch work. To this end we have a program that we believe gives a steady, hands-on experience for the best results. That includes such things as:

·        After session 2, the TTouch student is required to do 5 case studies between each session, 15 in total. This is to ensure that the student is doing and experiencing the work as well as getting feedback on what they are doing.

·        After session 2, each student receives a Mentor who is available to help him with these case studies and any question he might have about how to handle a particular situation.

·        At session 2, we begin to take students to a Shelter to work on both cats and dogs. This is to give you an opportunity to experience as many different animals as possible. It also allows us to give back something to the animal community. (Please note that if anyone has an objection to going into the shelter, and we realize that it is hard for some, there is no obligation. There is always an alternative to work with the kennel or your own animals instead.)

·        At session 3, we start to introduce Client Days. This is a morning where we set up Clients and their dogs for you to help in a safe and supported environment.

·        In general, the course is very much a hands on training, giving you a great variety of experience with as many animals as possible, so that at the end of 6 modules you feel confident to handle the clients and cases that come your way.

·        TTACT students are encouraged to assist at workshops given by fully Certified Practitioners. This is a great learning experience and invaluable to the learning process.

·        The TTouch office and Guild is always here to answer any questions or concerns you might have. Please don’t hesitate to call us if you have any needs!

·        Our Instructors all come from overseas and are the best in the world. One of the beauties of this program is that the same people teach it worldwide and so the information doesn’t get filtered down through many hands. The Instructors include Linda Tellington Jones (creator of TTouch), Robyn Hood (Linda’s sister and brilliant teacher), Edie Jane Eaton (also a Feldenkrais Practitioner) & Debby Potts (teacher par excellence).

·        This program is about helping you communicate with animals, giving people an alternative method of working with both animals and people, our human relationship with the animal world and giving you the tools to do all of these things. The program is dynamic, creative and yet very practical so that the work is clear and easy to understand.

At the end of 2 years, if you have done your case studies, you will acquire the Status of Practitioner–In–Training and are then able to charge for one-on-one consultations with clients.

DATE:             Jan 30 – Feb 3, 2010

VENUE:         Broshacarm Kennels - Midrand

COST:            +/- R4000 (Dependant on Rand/Dollar Rate)

Please contact Eugenie if you are interested in more information at eugenie@ttouch.co.za

TTACT III, session 6 – September 24-29, 2009 with Robyn Hood (limited to TTACT III students)

. CLIENT MORNINGS – September 26th & 27th 2009


This is one of our most popular offers. Your opportunity to experience TTouch first hand for only R140 for you and your dog! As most of you know, we have a Practitioner Training Program on the go and are now in our third year of training. So as part of the training program, we set up Client Days for our Students. This is always a fun experience for both the Client and the Practitioner – In – Training.

You may, if you wish choose to come for both days! It is often useful to have 2 sessions with your dog.


Cost:               R140 per day with a dog

Date:               Saturday, September 26th, 2009 10:00 a.m. until about 12:30 p.m.

Sunday, September 27th, 2009 10:00 a.m. until about 12:30 p.m.

Venue:            Broshacarm Kennels, Midrand

Booking:         Eugénie at info@ttouch.co.za or Tel: 011-884-3156 or Fax: 011 783-1515


2B. SMALL CRITTER DAY: September 24th – 2-4 p.m.

BRING your bunnies, birds, gerbils, turtles, bearded dragons, snakes or anything else that you have about the house! You could also bring a cat.


You can come to work on a problem or you can come just for fun and see how to TTouch your very special pet. It should be a fun Day! This day will be part of our Practitioner Training program so there will be lots of TTouch Practitioners there to work with you.






Thursday afternoon: Sept. 24th – this is a Holiday- 2:00 p.m.



TBA: Broshacarm Kennels, Midrand – or The TTouch office in Sandown, we’ll let you know. It depends on whether your pets need to be contained within 4 walls!


Eugénie or Louise at info@ttouch.co.za or

Tel: 011-884-3156 or Fax: 011 783-1515


It will be interesting to see how Ttouch can benefit so many different species of animals.


5-Day TTEAM with Roby Hood: Oct. 7-11, 2009


Come and get a taste of this wonderful work to help your horse be the best he/she can be.

TTeam, a technique developed over the last 30 years, uses TTouch and non-habitual movement to help make the lives of our equine friends a little easier, and to enhance the relationship between horse and owner/rider.


The 5-day Horse Clinic can be used as one of the 4 Clinics necessary to become a Horse Practitioner. (For more information on How To Become A TTEAM Practitioner go to: www.ttouch.co.za. This clinic is suitable for both professionals & novices alike. This 5-day Clinic includes TTEAM philosophy, bodywork, ground exercises, riding and is also a good overall view of the Horse work.


Learning the TTEAM techniques will help each rider increase communication with their horse, identify and relieve areas of bodily soreness or discomfort, and help solve training blocks while enabling the horse to learn with out fear.


A truly inspirational method for influencing behaviour, health and performance, including the following:

  • Increase your horse’s willingness to learn and ability to perform

  • Identify and alleviate soreness without drugs

  • Train your horse safely, with confidence, even if you are inexperienced in handling horses

  • Overcome resistances without fear, pain or force

  • Enhance healing and speed recovery of injury- related problems

  • Learn ground exercises to improve balance and develop coordination

The TTEAM method provides solid, practical and informative tools to help with:

  • Sore backs

  • Stiffness & stress

  • Nervousness & tension

  • I inconsistent performance, stubbornness & laziness

  • Lameness & unevenness of stride

  • Girthing and saddling-up

  • Resistance to the vet and farrier

  • Bucking & rearing

  • Resistance to grooming, clipping, pulling manes & giving shots

  • Head tossing & tail wringing

  • Biting & kicking

·         Loading







Donnybrook Stables Johannesburg

5 Day TTEAM with Robyn Hood

Oct. 7-11, 2009

+/- R4000

Lindy equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577

Donnybrook Stables Johannesburg

5 Day TTEAM with Sarah Fisher

April 16-20, 2010

+/- R4000

Lindy equibalance@iafrica.com 083 616 0577





Learn why your dog misbehaves and learn techniques that will change its behaviour






CAPE TOWN Pinelands Scout Hall



7th & 8th November 09




Debbie Conradie   debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net

021 919 1991
083 992 8767


Robyn Hood in SA September and October!


We are delighted to have Robyn coming back to South Africa this year. I thought it might interest our readers to know more about her!

An interview with Robyn Hood!

What about the Tellington TTouch Method is most important to you?

Robyn Hood replied: “The most significant thing is how the work helps people change the way they see their animals. That’s the most rewarding thing for me and I see how lots and lots of people change their attitude in many other situations too. The great thing is that we don’t have to push it on them; it just happens.”

“I’m feeling like I’m the best person I can be when I do the work. I have infinite patience with the people and their animals, and I don’t in every aspect of my life, but the Tellington TTouch work powerfully influences the way I work with people and animals. When you have enough tools you can just quietly persist and, if you have no attachment to the outcome, you watch to see what happens. Amazing changes occur.”

Linda contributed: “There are really no words to adequately thank my sister, Robyn, for the contributions she has made to the development, dissemination and teaching of the work for 30+ years.   Robyn has refined and many details to tools and techniques of our work.”

Robyn and her husband, Phil, have been importing and breeding Icelandic horses since 1976. The Icelandic Horse Farm is the venue for many of Robyn’s workshops and trainings. For the past few years, daughter Mandy Pretty has joined Robyn in teaching. Visit their farm online at www.IceFarm.com.

"Dear Robyn, Your workshop was absolutely wonderful in so many ways, thank you. You and Susan and Christine and Mandy (and of course Sue) all made us feel right at home. The food was fabulous, the snacks and cold drinks always so appreciated, your interest in our personal horse issues along with your thoughtful ways of responding was wonderful. Every detail, including music to ride to, photos of us, handouts, the trail ride, - so many things that made us feel cared about." Robin Wellington

"Dear Robyn, Just wanted to thank you again for the truly outstanding clinic. Even though I was tired from the drive, I was so excited to try some things with Brana that I got right out there this morning and we had a lovely time. After doing touches and connected ground work, I started doing S turns and circles over obstacles with my body without touching her and she followed me all over. It made me cry. Thanks for the best summer camp a person could have!" Linda Eddy

How do you feel about having your daughter do the Tellington Method with you?

“I am very happy because so often it’s so very difficult for young people to do what their parents do -- you can’t make your parents passion your own. Mandy didn’t intend to “do” the work and after college she decided to get involved.

“It’s really an honour to watch her work because she’s her own person completely and has a great way with people and horses. It makes me really proud.”


How to Teach “Give”: A Winning Recipe by Leah Roberts

By the time most dogs get to my classes, their owners have already taught them that when they get hold of something special, it’s going to be taken away. Most of the time, the owners get upset, yell, and force the object out of their mouths. So, when dogs find that deliciously smelly dead squirrel in the yard, they are more likely to hide the squirrel under the couch than allow their owners to catch them with it.

How many times have you seen your dog pick something up, look around quickly to see if you noticed, and hurry away from you with it? That’s because he knows he’s going to lose!

My way of teaching "give it" (or "drop it") is to change the dog’s perception of what the cue means. Instead of being worried that he’s going to lose something, I want to teach him that not only will he gain a treat, but he probably will get the item back again. "Give it" can become a win-win situation for the dog.

How to start

Begin with an item of lower value, such as a tug or stuffed toy. Something edible is usually of higher value to a dog, and harder for him to give up. You want to set your dog up for success, not failure.

Change the dog’s perception of what the cue means.

Encourage the dog to play with the toy you’ve chosen. Once it’s in his mouth, hold a smelly high-value treat right up to his nostril, and, cheerfully, say "give it." Some dogs will drop the toy right away. Others may hesitate, trying to decide, or some may even attempt to get both the toy and the treat in their mouths at the same time. This is not the time to nag "give it, give it, give it" or try to pull the treat away. Patiently, hold the treat to the dog’s nostril and wait silently for him to make his decision.

If the dog does not drop the toy, then the value of the toy is too high to him, the value of the treat is too low, or both. Try again with an object he doesn’t like as much, or use a hot dog or string cheese instead of a dog treat.

As soon as the dog does drop the toy, act quickly:

1.  Click

2.  Whisk the toy behind you with one hand, feeding him the treat with the other

3.  Give him the toy back again

Removing the toy from the dog’s sight is important, as is giving it back as soon as he finishes the treat. If you let the dog pick up the toy again after he eats the treat, he isn’t getting the correct message clearly enough: when he releases an object to you, you are going to give him back his prize.

When he releases an object to you, you are going to give him back his prize.

Following these steps is a way of solidifying his trust in you. As a nice side benefit, it’s also a subtle way of reminding him that you are the owner of all his resources.

Move to the next step

After placing the treat to the dog’s nose two or three times, start saying "give it" without letting him see or smell the treat. Putting the treat to the nose is a way to teach the dog the behaviour you want him to perform, without force. Once he understands what’s being asked of him, you don’t need the treat. If you continue to hold the treat to his nose, it will be more of a bribe than a reward, and he may not comply without seeing or smelling a treat! Note that this process, and the principle, hold true for all training using food lures, not just for training the "give" behaviour.

Continue the pattern of clicking, whisking the toy away, rewarding the dog, and returning the toy. When the dog is quickly and willingly dropping the toy, move a step or two away from him before saying "give it." Since the goal is to be able to give the cue in a normal tone of voice from across the room and have the dog immediately spit out the chicken bone or razor blade he’s picked up, practice giving the cue at slowly increasing distances.

Progress at the dog’s pace. If he fails to drop the toy, you asked for too much too fast—back up. Also at the dog’s pace, start asking for increasingly more valuable objects. If he becomes unwilling, up the reward value or lower the object value.

Constant readiness

The most important part of training and practicing "give" isn’t in the classroom or in set-ups, however. Be prepared at home by having your clicker and treats available wherever your dog is; be alert for opportunities to play the "give it" game. Try to find at least 8-10 times a day when you can ask your dog to give up something.

There will be times when you can’t give him the original object back, like when you catch him chewing the remote control! In this case, exchange a valuable toy for the object you have to take away. If you rotate his toys, having them available only for a few days and then switching them out, your dog won’t get as bored with them. This strategy will also provide you with a stash of more tempting exchange items.

Play and practice

Another way to practice "give it" is playing tug. If your dog isn’t crazy about the game, this won’t be the right method for him. But if he’s a crazed tugger, the game could be of great value.

Start off by playing normally with your dog. At some point, hold the tug toy still and say "give it." If he continues to tug, just wait patiently without tugging back. If you’re not participating, your dog will eventually grow bored and drop the toy. At that moment, praise him and encourage him to take the toy again. You won’t need a treat, because his reward will be restarting the game.

Make sure that when you give your dog an object that you told him to give up, you pick it up and hand it to him. Don’t just release him to take it. This is important not only for "give," but also for training "leave" (when the object’s not yet in the mouth). When you use either of these cues, you don’t want your dog to hover over the object, waiting to be released to eat it. Again, think of chicken bones or dropped razor blades. With both the "give" and "leave" cues, you want your dog to look to you for his reward automatically.

You want your dog to look to you for his reward automatically.

Special treat—and success

Though I don’t recommend rawhides (they can easily choke a dog or cause intestinal blockages), I have to admit that I do occasionally give them to my dogs. I used them when I was teaching "give it" and wanted to raise the value of the object to something really special. On the day I gave them the rawhides, I came back about once every 10-15 minutes to play the "give it" game.

One day after passing out the rawhides, I realized that my dogs were performing the "give" behaviour flawlessly, so I really didn’t have to ask for them back. Within 20 minutes, two out of my three dogs had brought me their rawhides and dropped them at my feet.

"Don’t you want this back, mom? Aren’t we going to play the game?"

If you practice diligently, the dead squirrel that Prince finds out in the yard might just get dropped in your lap instead of hidden under the couch!

Winning Article by Leah Roberts 05.01.2008.  Leah Roberts is a family pet trainer, with a special interest in puppy socialisation and canine body language

With Kind permission from the Karen Pryor Website www.clickertraining.com


New 6-Week Class to start 10th February 2010


Our new classes will begin the 10th February 2010 and run for 6 weeks.


Saturday Mornings: 9:30 to 11:30 a.m.


This class will include 4 x three hour “Learning Theory” sessions on How Dogs learn and 6 practical sessions on Clicker Training with Dogs


If you have always wanted to learn a method of training that doesn’t need aversives to be effective, then join us for a Clicker Experience! Although Operant Conditioning and the Clicker have been around for many years, especially in the Marine World and in training many species of animals for film, it’s only in the last 10 years that it has started to become Mainstream in the Dog Training World. Here is your chance to catch up!


DATES:     Without dogs: Wednesday Evenings 6-9 p.m. (for 4 weeks starting

                   Feb. 10, 2010)
                   With dogs: Saturday mornings 9:30-11:30 a.m. (for 6 weeks) starting
                   Feb. 13, 2010

VENUE:     Sandown– Johannesburg

BOOK:      Eugenie Chopin at eugenie@ttouch.co.za  or phone 011 884 3156 for more info.

COST:       Full Class: R1600: this includes the cost of the course, notes, treat
 bag, target stick and a clicker.


Learning Theory Only: R800: this includes evening lectures, File with notes& clicker

If you have been wondering what the fuss is all about, Clicker Training is basically about re-enforcing Behaviour that you want. It works on the principles of giving reward for correct behaviour rather than using corrections and aversives for unwanted behaviour. As a result, you can establish true respect from your dog without fear. It’s fun to do, the dogs love it and therefore gain in confidence and you can finally understand why they do the things they do and how your Behaviour and actions influence them daily!

NOTE: An aversive is anything the dog doesn’t like! So if you yell at your dog and it likes the attention, it might actually be a reward!


This class is designed to teach those who want to truly understand the concepts of Operant Conditioning, how animals learn, how to get through the barriers that stop the learning process and how to move forward in small enough steps to be successful in anything that you want to teach. If you are a Trainer, are interested in being a Trainer, or just are a dog owner who wants to understand more, then this might be the class for you!


Preventing Adolescent Problems

Always make a point of praising your dog and offering a couple of treats whenever he eliminates in the right place. Keep a treat container by your dog’s toilet area. You need to be there anyway to inspect and pick up your dog’s faeces (before the stool becomes home and dinner for several hundred baby flies). Remember, you want your dog to want to eliminate in his toilet area and to be highly motivated to do so, even when he develops geriatric incontinence.

Similarly, a stuffed Kong a day will continue to keep the behaviour doctor away. Your dog still needs some form of occupational therapy to idle away the time when left at home alone. There is no magic potion and there is no drug that will prevent household problems, such as destructive chewing, excessive barking, and hyperactivity, or alleviate boredom, stress, and anxiety as quickly, easily and effectively as stuffing your dog’s daily diet of kibble into a few Kongs.

For your adolescent dog to continue to be reliably obedient and willingly compliant, you must integrate short training interludes, especially emergency sits and long settle-downs, into walks, play sessions, and your dog’s other enjoyable day-to-day activities. Maintaining your dog’s manners through adolescence is easy if you know how to, but extremely difficult if you don’t. You must learn how to integrate training into the dog’s lifestyle.

Should socialization ever fail and your dog snap, lunge, or nip a person, you will be thankful that you had the good sense to take your puppy to classes where he learned reliable bite inhibition. Your dog’s defensive actions cause no harm but they warn you that you’d better quickly revamp your dog’s socialization program and maintain his bite inhibition exercises before it happens again - which it will. Continue bite inhibition exercises indefinitely. Occasionally hand feed your dog and examine his muzzle and teeth (and maybe clean them) on a regular basis.

The secret to a well-socialized adult dog is at least one walk a day and a couple of trips a week to the dog park. Try to find different walks and different dog parks, so that your dog meets a variety of different dogs and people. Socialization means training your dog to meet and get along with unfamiliar dogs and people. The only way to accomplish this is for your dog to continue meeting unfamiliar people and dogs daily. Praise your dog and offer a piece of kibble every time he meets an unfamiliar dog or person.

And don’t forget to maintain your own improved social life by inviting your friends over at least once a week, just to keep them still involved in training your dog. Ask them to bring along somebody new to meet your dog.

Host a puppy party and invite your dog’s buddies from puppy class and the dog park. To offset some of the scarier aspects of the dog world at large — adult dogs, big dogs, and occasionally unfriendly dogs — make sure your adolescent dog has regular opportunity to socialize and play with his core companions from puppy school.

Adapted from AFTER You Get Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar - more great articles on www.dogstardaily.com

Puppy Socialization Classes:

All classes below are given by TTouch Practitioners or Practitioners in Training and incorporate TTouch in the Handling of puppies.

ő        Blue Hills / Kyalami, Puppy 1 and Older Dogs Sunday Mornings Tracy McQuarrie 083 222 5180

ő        Brixton / Auckland Park: Puppy classes; contact Candi Moon: furbabies.sanctuary@gmail.com, 079 490 3233, www.furbabiestraining.co.za

ő       Bryanston, Puppy 1&2, Classes Wednesday evening & Saturday afternoon.
           Private sessions on request. Niki Elliott 082 451 0433

ő        Cape Town; Puppy Socialization Saturday afternoons, call Debbie on 083 992
            8767 or email Debbie.conradie@telkomsa.net

ő        Centurion: Puppy Socialising, Basic Obedience & Clicker Classes, 8-Week Course Weekdays and Weekends.  Heather Whitfield 083 566 7009 or email heather4paws@gmail.com

ő        Durbanville: Puppy Classes for pups under 4 months. Ongoing: new every 6 weeks. Claire Grobbelaar 021 9790848 or 082 784 7524 Claire.g@mweb.co.za

ő        Heidelberg: Jordaanpark, Every Sunday; contact Ilze van der Walt:

zafira.ilze@webmail.co.za or 082 921 4448

ő        Hermanus, Gordon’s Bay, Somerset West: Puppy l & ll. Tel 082 490 1650 and e-mail janina@krugerphotography.co.za

ő        Lyndhurst, Gresswold, Bramley, Kew, Waverley Area: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays. Nicky Lucka 083-408-1517 lucka@absamail.co.za

ő        Parkwood: Puppy Classes, 6 Week courses on Saturday afternoons R480 Tersia Kock 082 828 0505 tkock@telkomsa.net

ő        Pretoria – Lynnwood Glen & Waterkloof Glen, Puppy classes for pups until 16 weeks and Basic obedience classes (using clicker training) for dogs 16 weeks and older.  Contact Anelize 079 272 4249 or Manuela 076 427 9166

ő        Randpark Ridge: Puppy Socialising with Clicker, 7 Week courses on Saturday mornings. Wendy Wilson, 083 336 1761 overthemoon@iafrica.com

ő        Sandringham: Puppy Socialising, 6 Week courses on Sundays & Weekday evenings ongoing. Kim Heller 082 570 0463 kimh@kti.co.za


Debunking Dominance Theory By Karen Pryor


  Explain it all away

Throughout the pet business right now, "dominance theory" is a popular explanation for absolutely anything that happens, from a puppy tugging on your trouser leg to birds flying up instead of down. Conquering "dominance" has become justification for absolutely any punishment people can think up, from shocking dogs to stuffing parrots into the toilet. (Yes, seriously.) And the awful thing is that otherwise sensible people believe this nonsense. Apparently the idea that some animal is trying to "dominate" YOU really resonates. Yikes—got to stop that, right

You may be pleased to learn that some British scientists have blown a hole in the whole dog dominance business. Researchers in companion animal behaviour in the University of Bristol veterinary department studied a group of dogs at a re-homing centre, and also reanalyzed existing studies on feral dogs. Their conclusion: individual relationships between dogs are learned through experience rather than motivated by a desire to assert "dominance."

According to these specialists in companion animal behaviour, training approaches aimed at "dominance reduction" vary from worthless to downright dangerous. Making dogs go through doors or eat their dinners after you, not before, will not shape the dogs’ overall view of the relationship, but will only teach them what to expect in those situations.

In other words, that stuff is silly, but harmless.

"Much worse, techniques such as pinning the dog to the floor, grabbing the jowls, or blasting hooters [noise makers] at dogs, will make dogs anxious, often about their owner, and potentially lead to an escalation of aggression."


Veterinarians and shelters are seeing the results of this misapplied dominance. As one veterinary behaviourist put it to me at a recent scientific meeting, "A puppy has to submit to whatever the owner does; it has no choice. Then around the age of two comes just one Alpha roll too many, and the dog defends itself at last and tries to take the owner’s face off." So now the dog is in the shelter. And these dogs are fearful, unpredictable, and very hard to rehabilitate

Teaching people the power of clicker training is the benign and much more effective alternative. I’m so glad you all are out there, showing people through your own example and your happy, cooperative, attentive clicker dogs that there is a better way.

Happy clicking

With Kind Permission from Karen Pryor. Go to www.clickertraining.com for more interesting articles.



Yes, for those of you who haven’t been with us for long, we do actually have a cat that followed one of my staff home one night and never left. Shadow is about 4 years old and very independent! She has all the dogs under her thumb and they will usually back off if she starts to make threats.


Harley, the puppy is of course fascinated with her. He tries to play with her, but she simply doesn’t know how and being the boy Golden that he is, is perhaps a bit too boisterous for her to have much faith in the “play” thing.


Shadow is that typical cat that you see pictures of on the desk and computer. While she doesn’t actually lie across the keyboard, she will sit on the mouse pad or stand in front of the screen, which makes it rather difficult to get any work done! And then there are the papers. I wonder how many important papers have been lost by being partially eaten or knocked on the floor where they get properly eaten by Harley. They make a good team when it comes to that!


Have you ever had bubble wrap on your desk. This is a favourite for Shadow and be careful not to leave an elastic band out or it quickly becomes the #1 toy!


For the rest, Shanti seems better for the warmer weather and Angelique is 14 and thriving!


Hi Eugenie,

I just wanted to let you know that I am almost certain that it is TTouch, which has brought about an improvement in Frank’s condition already.

His little steps forward have been marginal until now, but feel intuitively that it is the TTouch that has given him a big boost in the last two days.

I started rather tentatively the first day or two, but then with deeper pressure for the next two days and there is no doubt that he is responding in the right way.

He yawns and curls and looks round, and then when I do the long strokes afterwards he gives me a lick which isn’t his usual style at all.  Then he’s very relaxed and goes to sleep without any fuss.  And our days - which have been pretty fraught - have improved as well. He seems much more settled.

Frank’s condition is known as IVDD - intervertebral disc disease - and that he’s been on crate rest and homeopathic medications (for the most part) for four weeks. We have probably another four to go but I’m sure we’re going to get him back onto his feet and be able to say boo to all those other knife-happy vets who said surgery was the only way (approx R15000 and no guarantees) and that his prognosis was dismal.

Thanks so much and I’ll keep you posted. I have been so disappointed with the couple of people (including an animal communicator friend of mine) who have been unhelpful and ungenerous with their knowledge, particularly as I live in such a remote place and can’t get to any therapists. Your kindness has made the world of difference.



Hi Eugenie,

Thanks for a lovely newsletter, as always!

It was great meeting you again at WODAC and seeing your demo, the  Maine Coon looked like she was in heaven! Having done Nikki’s two day dog and one day cat courses, I have seen a  huge change in my own animals.

My arthritic foxie is much more agile and my skittish feral cat is so  much more relaxed.

In the case of Shanti, I wanted to suggest a product I have been using on my 11 year old foxie. She has no hip joints at all - genetic! And this has affected her mobility. The product is called Joint Support, which has helped her arthritis tremendously. She couldn’t jump on her favourite chair anymore to lie in the sun. After using this everyday for three months, she hopped up on the chair like she had been doing it all along!

She is very mobile these days and doesn’t whine anymore when she gets up - no cortisone!

Garry Eckersley suggested it, so it might help Shanti with her Spondylosis. I have a reflexology client who has Spondylosis and gets a lot of relief from reflexology and from this supplement, which is safe for humans and animals. Maybe try for a few months and see if it makes any difference.

There are also pressure points you could try massaging for the spine on a dog’s paws and legs. I have done a course of reflexology on dogs and cats - and it really helps too!

The spine pressure point is located on the medial (inside) side of the paw and runs all the way until the elbow.

Here is the number for Joint Support - they might have a branch out your way or be able to deliver.

Canyon Organics

011 886 2932


Hope this helps!

Light and blessings


Editor’s Note: Thanks Michelle, We actually do give Shanti Joint Support. Unfortunately it’s not sufficient for her needs, but I’m sure it benefits her along with the other supplements she receives. And of course reflexology and pressure points are always a good addition to any therapy we can give!


Body Wrap Helps Sophie the fearful Border Collie


Hi Eugenie,


I wanted to tell you the happy news that my problem dog Sophie seems to be mellowing.  Perhaps she’s growing up.  Perhaps she’s responding to the alteration of my approach when we encounter new and strange dogs.  And perhaps she is responding to the Body Wrap.


I haven’t used it much - just a few days before the family arrived (with the two toddlers).  But what a difference!


She didn’t exactly go out of her way to make friends, but the snappishness was almost gone and she seemed calm, relaxed and okay with having the children around and moving past her. No touching was allowed (by me or her), and the only time she snapped was at a little hand that got too close to her face - and then it was just a warning.


She was happy to be connected to what was going on with everyone, and I was able to have her at home the whole of their stay and not have to take her to the kennel once (I also periodically gave the little ones some biltong to give to her which I think helped endear them to her).


I am simply unable to express how delighted I was and am with this change of behaviour.  I will always keep an eye on her around the children until they are older and bigger, but just being able to have Sophie be part of the family visit was wonderful.


I will continue with the Body Wrap - although it’s a challenge to keep it in place with her very long, soft and silky fur - and see how she improves further.


Thank you so much and very best wishes,


a. Book of the Month: The Elephant Whisperer by Lawrence Anthony

Recently I was given this delicious book by my friend, Karen and it’s a great read for any animal lover!

When South African Lawrence Anthon was asked to accept a herd of “rogue” wild elephants on his Thula Thula game reserve in Zululand, his common sense told him to refuse. But he was the herd’s last chance of survival – dangerous and unpredictable, they were also notorious escape artists and would be killed if Anthony wouldn’t take them.

As Anthon battled to create a bond with the elephants and save them from execution, he came to realize that they had a great deal to teach him about life, loyalty and freedom.

Give yourself a gift and read this incredible journey with the Elephants.

Available at most book stores.

b: Website of the Month: www.petsmart.com

Petsmart is actually a huge chain store for Pets in the US, but they much useful information on their website. For instance, we found the Dog Quiz questions on this site (put together by Suzanne Hetts) and if you go to http://corporate.petsmart.com/public-relations/if-your-pet-could-talk/video.php you can view videos that demonstrate common pet behaviors so you can recognize for yourself which of the behaviors your pet exhibits. This is really useful!

c: Interesting Links

Grooming: - How clicker training works compared to Dominance in nail trimming


      This website http://www.mydogiscool.com/ can help people save dogs from dying in hot cars this summer.

14.   EVENTS

a. New Course offered by Thinking Pets

For further details or to enrol please contact ThinkingPets on Info@thinkingpets.com or visit www.thinkingpets.com / www.coape.org.  This exciting UK based qualification is now available in South Africa.  Applications for enrolment open in August 2009 and the first course starts in February 2010



b. The Language of Miracles Workshops with Amelia Kinkade (International speaker and author of “Straight from the Horse’s Mouth)

Amelia Kinkade, famous Animal Telepathic communicator is coming back to SA.

JHB: Sept 19 & 20

Cape Town: Sept. 27th

For more information, please contact Sandy on 082 372 3388 or sandy@deltaenviro.org.za

c. Take Part in Research for Storm Phobia (Scotty Valadao)


The time of year that owners of storm phobia dogs dread is fast approaching – that of the rainy season! To see your dog shiver and shake or even worse, eliminate, and go through windows to escape the storm is not only stressful and terrifying for the dog, the owner will feel the stress associated with this behaviour as well.


Over the last few years, I have put together a successful program, using both TTouch and Behaviour Modification (and veterinary assistance when needed) to help both dogs and owners, and the results have been excellent. Not all dogs have a 100% improvement, but all have improved to some degree or other. I feel the time has now come where I would like to take this work further and do an in-depth study as to what works and what doesn’t. To achieve this I will be hosting monthly clinics specifically for this problem for those who can attend, and in addition will be doing research via e-mail.


In order to make this study as comprehensive as possible I am looking for as many dogs that are storm phobic to take part. The research will start at the end of September. This does not entail you to attend the clinics - comprehensive notes, in addition to a questionnaire, will be sent by e-mail and your progress will be monitored on a regular basis, where any modifications needed will be given. The clinics will be charged for, but the study via e-mail is free.


What I have found however is that when TTouch is part of the modification process the results are much more dramatic. The power of TTouch never fails to astound me, and at a recent workshop I had a client who brought her JR and who happened to do the TTouch on her older dog at home. I had no idea that this dog, Bob, was storm phobic, and was delighted when she told me that during the storm we had in June of this year, that it was only after he had finished his food that she realized it was storming. Previously he would never eat and was crouched behind the sofa – all this improvement without any behaviour modification!


I invite any owners of storm phobic dogs to contact me and I will send you the questionnaire and the modification notes and to please tell your friends as well. Hopefully together, we can find a way to make this terrible phobia better for our dogs. I can be contacted at scotty@scottysdogs.co.za and look forward to hearing from you.

© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.