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13.   EVENTS
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Dear TTouch Friends,

PLEASE HELP: Does anyone know where I can buy a car ramp for dogs? It looks like a foldable ramp that allows the dog to walk up into the car rather than having to jump.

NOTE: We have been having major problems with our computers, so if you have sent us a mail in the last 2 months that hasn’t been answered, please resend as we are definitely missing mails – and some of ours have gone missing! Just in case you don’t know – we have now found out that when Outlook 2000 gets over 2 Gigabytes, it simply dies – and with no warning – so take heed if you’re using 2000!

Now to the good news! We have just finished 6 weeks of TTouch Classes and Clicker Class and it was really great! So many interesting people and dogs shared their lives and stories with us. And from each dog we learn so much again! How to be gentle, balanced, steady and non-judgemental are amongst the few things that always come up in a class with interesting issues. As is usual there were many dogs with fear of loud noises such as thunder and it’s so rewarding to hear how they are handling the noise with greater ease. A couple of times we even saw it for ourselves when we had storms during class time! See comments from the participants under “Letters”.

The big news, of course is that THE Practitioner Training FOR COMPANION ANIMALS starts this week! Hard to believe it’s almost here and that we’re starting with a brand new group of people. It’s very exciting for us and I know the participants are also anticipating the workshop. As you know by now, there is a Second Intro April 27-May2 – so if you still are interested in joining the class, you can certainly do so. The exciting news is that we are going to have Kathy Cascade as our Instructor! It will be Kathy’s first time in SA and participants will again get a whole new take on the work. Kathy was actually my Mentor when I went through the Program in the States. Welcome Kathy!

We had a big scare a couple of weeks ago when Danilo woke me up one morning and couldn’t stand, but it’s all been sorted. See the story in the Shanti and Friends section. (Spinal Vascular Mistake)

Well, I’m keep it short this month due to pressure and so much to do!

Would love to get some rain now so that we have a fresh, but not too wet training.

Keep those stories coming – we love them!

Eugenie Chopin

Certified Practitioner III for Companion Animals


'Show Dog' Terms

Pet dogs raid the garbage ...
Obedience dogs are very food motivated


Well, 2007 is upon us and we have great News: We have set the dates of the Second Intro for Companion Animals. It will be April 27- May 2 this means you have to take minimal days off work

April 27 – Holiday

April 28-29 – Weekend

April 30 – Monday

May 1 – Holiday

May 2 – Wednesday

So max Holiday you need is 2 Days! We are hoping that this will help those of you who have problems getting off work!

The training runs over 3 years, with 2-week long sessions per year. The first Introductory Session starts March 17-22, 2007 (1st Intro). You do NOT need to have any previous experience to join this training. However, you might like to join a workshop before then if you are keen to start. Having a basic knowledge can help you retain more of the Intro training, but again this is not necessary for you to be part of the TTACT III class. If you are interested in a workshop, please go to our website at http://www.ttouch.co.za/ and look on the Workshop page for details.

After the Introductory Session and between sessions, students are encouraged to assist at workshops for further experience and do case studies. The program comprises only 2 sessions a year in order to help students with their finances and the need to get time off work. The workshops are scheduled to include a weekend in order to make it as convenient as possible.

The Program is a comprehensive training of hands on work with Companion Animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, etc. The training consists of 2 sessions a year lasting between 5 & 7 days, for 3 years.


Practitioner Training




Paws for Thought Kennels
6  Day INTRO                              with Robyn Hood

March 17-21 or              April 27-May 2

R3900 + VAT



011 884-3156


We endeavour to help the student to be proficient and confident in the TTouch work. To this end we have a program that we believe gives a steady hands on experience for the best results. That includes such things as:

·        After session 2, the TTouch student is required to do 5 case studies between each session, 15 in total. This is to ensure that the student is doing and experiencing the work as well as getting feedback on what they are doing.

·        After session 2, each student receives a Mentor who is available to help him with these case studies and any question he might have about how to handle a particular situation.

·        At session 2, we begin to take students to a Shelter to work on both cats and dogs. This is to give you an opportunity to experience as many different animals as possible. It also allows us to give back something to the animal community. (Please note that if anyone has an objection to going into the shelter, and we realize that it is hard for some, there is no obligation. There is always an alternative to work with the kennel or your own animals instead.)

·        At session 3, we start to introduce Client Days. This is a morning where we set up Clients and their dogs for you to help in a safe and supported environment.

·        In general, the course is very much a hands on training giving you a great variety of experience with as many animals as possible so that at the end of 6 modules you feel confident to handle the clients and cases that come your way.

·        TTACT students are encouraged to assist at workshops given by fully Certified Practitioners. This is a great learning experience and invaluable to the learning process.

·        The TTouch office and Guild is always here to answer any questions or concerns you might have. Please don’t hesitate to call us if you have any needs!

·        Our Instructors all come from overseas and are the best in the world. One of the beauties of this program is that the same people teach it worldwide and so the information doesn’t get filtered down through many hands. The Instructors include Linda Tellington Jones (creator of TTouch), Robyn Hood (Linda’s sister and brilliant teacher), Edie Jane Eaton (also a Feldenkrais Practitioner) & Debby Potts (teacher par excellence).

·        This program is about helping you communicate with animals, giving people an alternative method of working with both animals and people, our human relationship with the animal world and giving you the tools to do all of these things. The program is dynamic, creative and yet very practical so that the work is clear and easy to understand.

At the end of 2 years, if you have done your case studies, you will acquire the Status of Practitioner–In–Training and are then able to charge for one-on-one consultations with clients.

The cost of the 6-day Introductory course will be  R3900 + VAT.

If you are interested in knowing more, please contact Eugenie on 011 884-3156 or email eugenie@ttouch.co.za  or phone the office on 011 884-3156

Pet dogs shed ...
Show dogs blow coat.






Glenferness Donnybrook Stables
5 Day                                with                              Robyn Hood

March 24-28

R3700 + VAT

Lindy at equibalance@iafrica.com

083 616 0577

Cape Town
Hout Bay

1  Day           with                              Catherine Williams

Mar 17


incl. VAT

Catherine at tteampractitioner@yahoo.co.uk

082 569 8641

021 785-4567

Pet dogs stand ...
Show dogs stack


The TTouch class is a great way to learn & absorb TTouch at it’s best. Over a 6-week period, you have the opportunity to go home, practice and then come back for more! SEE YOUR DOG MAKE CHANGES IS A FEW WEEKS!






Weekend Workshop

19 – 20 May 07



082 451 0433









1 Day Workshop         Niki Elliott




082 451 0433 niki.elliott@wol.co.za

For more information, please contact Niki 082 451 0433 niki.elliott@wol.co.za

Pet dogs are in heat ...
Show dogs come into season.

The History and Development of Mouth TTouch – Part 1

From the desk of Linda Tellington Jones – Published in “Stay in TTouch” Newsletter for practitioners

That Mouth TTouch will affect the emotions and thereby can transform undesirable behaviour  is an integral part of the work. However, I’ve never written about the process that brought me to this realization.

In December, an email from Martine Broeders posted to the TTouch Group inspired me to track the process that lead me to the conclusion that working on the mouth of an animal (or person) could influence emotions and behaviour:

Hi everyone, I am looking for articles, research done on the effect of chewing/mouth work /giving treats on behaviour and the learning process in animals (brain activity, parasympathetic system).

I had, unfortunately, just returned from a very short trip to Switzerland to teach a four day TTouch for You training to a group of physical therapists and was a bit overwhelmed being so far behind on emails. So I was not able to send Martine the information she requested. However, it made me realize that you all need to know how my concept of the effects of mouth work on emotions developed - the connection to the limbic system, and the relationship to the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous system.

The first time I remember working a horse’s mouth in unusual ways was July of 1975. It was at the end of the second day of my four-summer Feldenkrais training and I was excited to check out a basic Feldenkrais principle on a horse. Moshe Feldenkrais had discovered that gentle non-habitual movements of the body could increase human potential for learning in humans.

I surmised that if this were true for humans, why wouldn’t it work for a horse? The first horse I chose for this experiment was a 16-year old Arabian brood mare who was not particularly friendly and was hard to catch. I moved her ears, legs, tail and head in ways a horse could not do herself and moved the lips in all directions, extending the upper lip and pulling it left and right and up and down and around. After only one session the mare changed dramatically and became easy to catch!

That inspired me to develop so many different ways to move the body that was the beginning of the initial TEAM – Tellington Equine Awareness Movements.

The next milestone came in 1979 as a result of a lecture by an Israeli neurologist in an Advanced Feldenkrais seminar. What piqued my interest in particular was his discussion of how an inadequate suckling reflex or slackness or tension of a newborn’s mouth could be indicative of a neurological abnormality.

During the lecture I began thinking about horses and musing about the relationship between unusual habits horses develop with their mouths, how that might relate to abnormal behaviour.

Some weeks later, in Germany, a young mare was enrolled in my weeklong training for evaluation because of her unfriendly attitude toward her teen-age rider.

“Observe” was a key word that began at our 9-month residential program at the Pacific Coast Equestrian Research Farm and School of Horsemanship in the 1960’s. What I observed about the German mare was her tight mouth, her reluctance to open it to take a bit, her unwillingness to be caught in the pasture, and her resistance to having her mouth and muzzle handled. During the week I paid particular attention to patiently touching the mare’s lips and muzzle in a way that was non-habitual and she could stand quietly and accept, and I moved her lips in many directions. (This was long before the development of the circular TTouches.)

By the end of the week-long training the mare seemed to actually enjoy the work on her mouth, opened her mouth readily to take the bit, and for the first time came willingly to the gate to be caught.

I began to pay more attention to way horses use their mouths.

NEXT MONTH – Part 2 – What was learned about the connection of the Mouth to the Limbic part of the Brain

Pet dogs run around the house...
Show dogs show tremendous reach and drive.

The limited hold- by Karen Pryor PART 2


With the “come” cue, often a dawdly behavior, it can be hard to gauge what’s faster and what’s slower just by watching. In this case a methodical application of a limited hold can be useful. Think of the limited hold as a single criterion, like height of a jump, duration of a sit, strength of a push. You can train it in one situation, and then extend the criterion to other times and places. So, in the example of a dog that sniffs and dawdles over every blade of grass en route to the back door, you might train a low-latency recall indoors, first, and then gradually add speed as a criterion of the recall, in other circumstances. A long hallway is a great place to do this. Mark a chalk line across the floor at each end of the hall. Stand behind the line at one end. Enlist a helper to call or lead the dog back to the other end of the hall between each run, or to hold the dog while you move to the other end. Make the run very short (five feet or so) the first few times, clicking the dog’s arrival at the chalk line and giving a highly preferred treat.

Now extend the run to the length of the hall. How are you going to tell which of two similar runs was faster? Most of us recite the alphabet at a pretty steady rate. You can use that to measure small increments of improvement. “Come,” you say, and as the dog shambles toward you, you recite a-b-c-d-e-f-g-h-i-j-k-l until he crosses your chalk line, whereupon you click and treat. On the next run you’ll know if he speeds up a little, because he will reach you by h or j instead o! f k. Goo d! Click/treat. And of course if he takes longer, you’ll know that too.

The object is not to punish slower runs, but to pay for faster ones. You make you criterion roomy enough so that most, but not all, of the runs are within your chosen limit. The procedure itself may naturally speed up the dog. As he begins to pick up speed you can introduce the limited hold: choose the maximum letter you’ll tolerate, and if he doesn’t get there by that letter, change ends and call him back the other way. I have seen the world’s slowest Newfie, who plodded all the way to l-m-n-o-p on his first try, end up by responding to the “come” cue at a nice canter, getting to me by b-c-d, after about fifteen clicks and treats.

Oh, of course this works with people. When I’m lecturing with a new group of people, for example, at the very beginning I ask for quiet with a gesture, a raised hand. Generally everyone goes on talking. Then I get down from the podium and go around the room for about thirty seconds, clicking and handing a treat (Hershey’s Kisses) to any people who are being quiet. The next time I ask for quiet, usually when starting up again after a break, I stand still and look at my watch. When most of the people have stopped talking, I click into the microphone and say Good! And start talking.

“If you are attentive to selectively reinforcing brisk responses to cues in a few crucial
 responses—paying only for low latency responses—all of that learner’s cue responses
will tend to be brisker.”

By the third time it happens the audience falls silent, except for a giggle here and there (“She’s training us!”) as soon as I step up to the podium and raise my hand. I’ve established a cue, the raised hand, and I’ve also shaped a good low latency response.

As Bob and Marian Bailey put it, latencies are contagious. If you are attentive to selectively reinforcing brisk responses to cues in a few crucial responses—paying only for lo! w latenc y responses—all of that learner’s cue responses will tend to be brisker. That makes for a sharp-looking worker! On the other hand, if you generally accept and pay for any eventual response to your cue or request, even if it took the learner (the dog, the child, the teenager, the spouse) forever to actually do it, then high latencies and long waits is what you’ll get in general. One example I’ve experienced personally is the difference between getting on one of the guest riding horses at a dude ranch, and getting on a working cowpony, a cutting or roping horse. The horse in the riding stable starts up into a slow walk after you’ve kicked it a few times, and requires several kicks and some urging to break into a trot. Steering it may also require some effort, and it stops slowly too, going from a canter down to a jog and finally a slow walk again. The cutting horse moves on a dime, in contrast, moves and changes speed and direction instantly, on the smallest of cues. What a pleasure; the latencies are so low it feels as if all you have to do is think what you want the horse to do, and it’s already happening.

And all you need to do, to have your own learners respond that way, is to value and reinforce quick responses to cues, withhold reinforcement for slow responses, and, when the difference is hard to measure, reach for that useful tool, the limited hold.

Happy Clicking!

With Kind Permission from Karen Pryor: Many more wonderful articles can be found at www.clickertraining.com

Pet dogs get a bath ...
Show dogs are groomed.

Taking your puppy to the park – etiquette and safety tips.
By Niki Elliott

Many of our handlers have expressed a concern about taking their new puppy to the park, and often this fear is due to bad “park etiquette “ on the part of owners of whose dogs have not been shown how to behave to-wards other dogs. Not all dogs are friendly towards other dogs or puppies, and yet their owners still allow these dogs to run free and hold their breath when their dog is approached by another dog.

There are a number of points you can work with before introducing your puppy to the park. Firstly enrol in a puppy class where the socialization with other puppies is monitored closely. This will give you the opportunity to see how well your puppy deals with meeting and greeting other pups. If he is very nervous and fearful of other puppies he will be totally overwhelmed in park where there are bigger dogs. If he is a bit overconfident, he might get into trouble with older dogs. Seeing his behaviour in puppy class allows you to work on these behaviours before introducing him to a place where he might be physically or emotionally affected.   

At Puppy School it is usually only necessary that your pup has had his first vaccination but before going to a park, make sure that your puppy has had his full set of vaccinations and is up to date with his worming protocol. In some of the parks there are piles of faeces lying around, a breeding ground for disease. Some dogs that visit are either not up to date with their vaccinations or have never been vaccinated.

When you are ready to introduce your pup to the park, spend a few minutes watching the other dogs and how they are playing and interacting with others. If the dogs seem to be too rough in their play or are intimidating other dogs, come back some other time. Be careful of taking your puppy to the park when it is very hot. Puppies can overheat very quickly.

At Puppy School you will have been taught how to get a solid “WATCH” and “RECALL” from your puppy. These are essential “tools” for you both in the park, especially once you have removed his lead. Have some really yummy treats and, if you have been Clicker training your puppy, your clicker handy. Start right from the moment you arrive, asking for a behaviour and rewarding it.

Have your puppy on lead and take care when entering the dog park gate. Other dogs tend to crowd around to greet arriving dogs. This jostling and crowding can be quite intimidating to puppies and may result in your puppy being terrified and never wanting to return to the park. This is often the place where fights break out.

Introduce your puppy, on lead, to the other dogs gradually – allow him to greet other dogs while he’s still in the separate entry area, if this is available at your park, or let him sniff around the fenced boundary. When you go up to another dog, ask the other owners if you may introduce your pup to their dog. Do not assume that every dog will like your puppy.

It is advisable not take your small children or babies in prams to the dog park at first. Get the feeling of the atmosphere in the park before you attempt this and allow yourself time to become confident in handling your puppy in these circumstances. Dogs and children can easily frighten one another and bad things can happen to either of them in the blink of an eye. Supervise your puppy. This is not the time for you to be distracted talking with other owners. You must be monitoring your puppy’s activities to be sure he isn’t behaving badly and other dogs are not behaving badly toward him. This is another reason not to take young children – you can’t adequately supervise both the puppy and kids at the same time. Be particularly watchful of small dogs around big dogs. Don’t let big dogs frighten or threaten small dogs. Aggression between big and small dogs is especially likely to result in injuries to the small dog.

Don’t take any toys to the park your puppy is not willing to share. While treats are a great way to reward good behaviour, be careful about giving them to your puppy when other dogs are nearby. If your puppy can’t tolerate other dogs crowding around her wanting to share the goodies, treats may not be a good idea.

Avoid grabbing your pup’s collar when he is playing or interacting with other dogs. Such tugging can sometimes trigger threats and aggression toward nearby dogs. This is where your recall is extremely important. Quite often, if you can’t get your pup to pay attention to you, simply walk away and chances are that your pup will see your retreating back and run after you.

If your puppy seems to be fearful or is being “bullied” by other dogs, don’t let him stay, thinking he will “get over it”, that he will learn to “stand up for himself”. Chances are greater his behaviour will get worse. Don’t let other dogs threaten or scare your puppy. If they won’t leave, then you should leave.

If your puppy is being a bully, being threatening or aggressive or just seems to be overly excited, remove him from the park, either temporarily or permanently. It is not fair to put other dogs at risk. Make the safety of other dogs and people as high a priority as the safety of your own.

Be knowledgeable about dog body postures, communication signals and social behaviour. You should be able to recognize stress, tension, fear, play, threats and aggression. Know the difference between play (which can be very active and sound violent) and real threats. Know when to intervene and when to stay out of an interaction among dogs. This should be covered in your Puppy Classes but if you feel inadequate, learn more before taking your puppy to a park. Harm can come to your puppy if you under-react as well as over-react.

Recognize that by taking your puppy to a dog park, you are accepting a degree of risk that your puppy may be injured or may injure another dog. Don’t be naïve and think that a dog park is a safe place for your dog to be around other dogs. This may not always be the case.

PLEASE pick up after your dog. You don’t want to step in another dog’s poop anymore than someone else wants to step in your dog’s mess. Woolworths is selling a “Poop Bag” dispenser and some Vets keep a similar product as well. Really handy to have one attached to your lead, so you don’t leave the bag in the car!

Niki is a TTouch Practitioner for Companion Animals and  gives regular puppy classes. She can be reached at niki@ttouch.co.za

Pet dogs beg for treats ...
Show dogs animate for bait

Cancer-Sniffing Dogs


Taken from: http://scienceline.org/2007/01/17/ask-westly-cancerdogs/


I’ve heard dogs can detect cancer just from sniffing someone’s breath. How is that possible?

-asks Christine from Waldorf, Maryland


By Erica Westly, posted January 17th, 2007.

Everybody knows dogs have a keen sense of smell. Bloodhounds, for example, reportedly have an olfactory system that is ten million times more sensitive than humans’. This sniffer sensitivity is being put to work by oncology researchers: they’ve found that dogs can actually smell certain types of cancer.


In fact, studies indicate that dogs are often more accurate cancer-detectors than current diagnostic tests like chest X-rays and mammograms. In a study published last spring in the journal Integrative Cancer Therapies, cancer-sniffing dogs identified lung cancer samples correctly 99 percent of the time. But how are they able to identify cancer through smell?


It turns out researchers have known for years that the breath and urine of cancer patients are chemically different from the breath of healthy people. Studies using gas chromatography, a laboratory technique that separates out the components of a gaseous mixture, have shown high levels of organic compounds such as alkanes, aromatic compounds, and benzene derivatives are present in cancer patients’ breath.


Experts believe the alkanes and other compounds are increased in cancer patients because of oxidative stress, a biochemical process that occurs in dying cells. Increased oxidative stress forces cells to speed-up their metabolism, which leads to increased metabolism byproducts, like the alkanes. Though nothing has been proven, the current consensus is that it is these compounds the dogs are able to identify through smell — an olfactory feat that may be hard for most humans to imagine.


The recent studies suggest regular "household" dogs can be trained to detect cancer in urine and breath samples in just a few weeks. Dog trainers use positive reinforcement to teach the dogs to recognize the Can- cerous samples. In studies that use breath samples, researchers have subjects exhale deeply into small plastic tubes, which are then sealed and placed in perforated canisters; this allows the dogs to smell the samples without contaminating them. The dogs are faced with several canisters at one time and must lie down in front of the one they think contains the cancerous sample, getting a treat if they choose the correct one.


The next step for researchers will be to establish what chemicals the dogs use to identify cancer and then to develop ways to mimic the dogs’ detection abilities with technology. Progress is already being made with a device known as the electronic nose that, up until recently, has been used mainly for monitoring toxins in food and the environment. Indeed, in 2003 a group at the University of Rome created an electronic nose that was 92 percent accurate at detecting lung cancer. The results were published in the journal Biosensors and Bioelectronics.


Researchers believe both doctors and patients would stand to benefit from a cancer-detecting electronic nose: the technology is easy to use, relatively inexpensive, and non-invasive. Physicians would be unlikely to diagnose patients based on the electronic nose results. Instead, the electronic nose could be used as a gauge for determining which patients required additional testing.


The potential of this breathalyzer-like technology may extend to other diseases, too. Some researchers have suggested that the breath of patients with AIDS, diabetes, and possibly even mental illness could contain unique chemical markers. Whether dogs can sniff out any diseases besides cancer has not yet been studied, though claims by patients that their dogs can predict everything from heart attacks to epilepsy abound.


Perhaps one day we will understand how dogs interpret what they smell. Until then, all we can do is wonder if maybe our pets know more about our health than we do.

Pet dogs jump the fence ...
Obedience dogs demonstrate problem solving intelligence

SHANTI & FRIENDS UPDATE: Danilo, Eugeni’s 17 year old, has a Spinal Stroke

Well, Danilo certainly gave me a fright 2 weeks ago when he awakened me with heavy panting. He could  not stand up and was salivating profusely. I made an appointment with his Homeopathic Specialist Vet and took him to an appointment by mid-day. (Just a note that I did have a couple of conversations with Vets to make sure I was OK to wait a few hours to see someone – sometimes prompt action is necessary). In any case, I’m glad I waited as by the time we arrived at the Vet, he could stand and take a few steps on his own. Then tests were done to rule out other possible problems and an x-ray to make sure he hadn’t injured himself going up and down the stairs.

The conclusion was a spinal Vascular Mistake – easier remembered as a Spinal Stroke, which usually involves some internal bleeding around the spine. The good news is that it also usually rights itself within a couple of weeks. Of course, given Danilo’ s age and history of losing mobility in the back legs, this is still a scary scenario.

I am very grateful that I was at my holistic Vet as there is little treatment for this other than acupuncture and this we did immediately. Danilo happily walked out of the surgery and has been improving steadily. We have since gone back for 2 more acupuncture treatments.

However, even with a wobbly walk, he couldn’t negotiate the stairs at home and we do live upstairs in our house. Now do you remember last month I told you I had a brain wave about bringing the garden upstairs to Danilo so that when he wasn’t able to handle the stairs, he could have a patch of grass on the balcony?

Well, we had actually done this and I now have a patch of grass on the end of the balcony about 1 by 3 Meters, but I had not up until now encouraged Danilo to use it as he was doing fine on the Stairs.

So on the day after the stroke, I decided to keep him on the Balcony until he just HAD to use the grass.( I had asked a couple of times, but with no luck) – He actually held out until 2 p.m. in the afternoon when I gave in (scared he was going to get stopped up) and had him carried down the stairs. He did his business and was brought back upstairs. Later in the evening just as I had asked for help to take him outside again, I saw him go out onto the balcony and decided to peep and sure enough he did a wee in the dark when no one was around! Yeah it worked!

Of course, he still preferred to go into the garden and within a few days Heather and I could put on a Harness and use back leg supports to help him down the stairs. We were having to make sure his back legs didn’t slip out from under him. And then 8 days after the stroke, he decided he could do this on his own and is now going up and down the stairs alone.

I can’t say that I don’t have anxious moments, but I also know that his independence and dignity are very important to him, so I let him do it and hope that when he senses that he’s going to have difficulty, he’ll let me know. I have actually seen him do this before, where he looks at me as if to say – hey, can’t you help me out here?

This whole episode brings home very strongly the reality of his age and how limited our time is together. After 17 years, I am grateful for every day and am blessed with his strength and willingness to stay and enjoy life with me for a bit longer! He has a magnificent Spirit and Joy for Life that teaches me so much!

I love you Danilo!

Next Month: How we Helped Shadow feel Safe coming into the Bedroom with the Dogs.

Pet dogs bark at other dogs ...
Agility dogs show excitement before showing.


WE had such a great group of people and dogs at the recent TTouch Trainings;

Here are some of the things they had to say:


I found the training so much helpful – I learnt things about my dog and  myself, which I did not know existed. Both CJ and I are a much better “pair” for all our training. Just to show how important this training was – I was supposed to go to the coast for the last weekend – DID NOT GO – I felt the training was more important. Thank you!

Pat Westmoreland and CJ (Weimaraner, M, 2 yrs)



The leash walking has improved a lot! Gryphon is more relaxed and confident in general. I can get home without being “run” over. What I really like is the holistic approach and positive interaction with my dog.

Norma Roberts and Gryphon (Great Dane, F, 1 yr)



Nandi’s anxiety seems to have reduced – she doesn’t squels as much when I get home and seems less nervous when there is thunder in the air. Lucy – The Collie – who I had to leave at home responds very well to body wrapping (She is very nervous when there is a storm looming or fireworks being set off). She also has an intermittent limp - front right – which is either a sore paw or muscular. I have done legwork, python lifts and circles on her and can see a big improvement. I shall concentrate on these as I feel she is potentially arthritic at 7 years. Thank you!

Shirley Mitchell and Nandi - Dachshund, F, 6.5 yrs



Cindy isn’t as fearful with thunder and rain. She stares now or lying in bed. If she is weary or scared of something, she sits by the gate, looking out at it or at the house, but doesn’t cry anymore for us or runs up and down the stairs.

Raquel Nunes and Cindy (Pointer, F, 8 m.)




Cyan is a much happier dog; the shyness is subsiding, no longer hiding under every chair, table and bed she sees. She has started to initiate play with her baby brother, whereas before it was the other way round. She has also (in the past week) stopped barking at children. This was always a problem, as she had bad experiences with kids when she was a pup. Gyan’s tail is more up and curled, much happier dog overall.

Thank you, this was an experience I can take with me through life.

Marina Constandse and Cyan (Siberian Husky, F, 4 yrs)



Jethro travels extremely well after these classes, the body wrap and nose wraps have help with the wining in the car; it calms him and allows him to take more interest in what’s going on without a stressed, over excitement and chaotic response to everything.

Jennifer Tillett and Jethro (Dalmation, M, 11m.)




Tennessee is very sensitive and tends to freeze in unknown situations. The TTouch has helped, but I found that 10 minutes twice a day was too much. She went of her food and become generally stressed. When I cut it down to 2 –3 minutes twice a day, she really benefited. Belly lifts have been great for her as she has had about 5 operations to remove stones, so anytime she is stressed, it seems to go straight to her stomach and she gets really tense there. All in all a great learning experience and a real eye opener on how important it is to really pay attention to your dogs reaction to various touches.

Wendy Wilson and Tennessee (Basset Hound, F, 3 yrs)




It has been particularly gratifying to see Gemma’s progress over the 6 weeks. What we have learnt here will be invaluable in the future as new challenges present themselves. I have noticed how her confidence is improving, not only at home, but also in the park with other dogs. Wonderful to see her personality truly blossoming. Thank you!

Denni Vögel and Gemma (Ridge Back X, F, 7 yrs)



Since we started TTouch Luna’s confidence has definitely improved! One3 of the places I noticed this the most was in man work training. She used to be very uncontrollable, but a little mouth work made her a lot calmer. She has been much more confident and gives good solid bites. She is definitely more sure of herself. I will certainly continue! Thankx Eugenie

Michaela Newey & Luna (German Shepard, F. 5 yrs)

Pet dogs are hyper...
Show dogs are high drive.

 Book of the Month: 

We are please to announce the Sarah Fisher released her new book, ‘Know Your Horse Inside Out’

-         A clear, practical guide to understanding and improving posture and behaviour.

By understanding the way that tension affects your horse, you can take steps to improve every aspect of his life safely and effectively, helping him to stay sound, recover from injury and realize his full potential.


Inside you’ll find:

§         Improve Your Horse’s life

§         Body Talk

§         Assess Your Horse

§         Free Up Your Horse


The book offers practical guidance to take you step by step through exercises and bodywork that will allow you and your horse to break free of nagging physical and behavioural problems, and enjoy the benefits of better health and a happier partnership.


Sarah Fisher is the UK’s highest qualified instructor in the Tellington Touch Equine Awareness Method. Sarah runs the UK office for TTEAM and TTouch International writes for national magazines and provides staff training for several high profile organisations, including the Thoroughbred Rehabilitation Centre. Her television appearances include the BBC’s Celebrity Dog School and ITV1’s “Talking to Animals”.



The hardback book is published by David and Charles, ISBN 10:0-7153-2231-1

To Order: phone Heather on 011 884-3156 or email info@ttouch.co.za

Cost: R235.00


                         Return to Top

b:  Website of the Month: http://www.theveterinarian.com.au/

In search for more information on Danilo’s “Spinal Vascular Mistake”, we came across this very informative website. There are various features, forums, clinical reviews, research updates and industry information that are very relevant to us. Please visit this site and judge for yourself.


c.   10 Secrets my dog taught me – Carlo de Vito (All wording taken directly from the book)


Secret 8: Having a goal (or a purpose) is a good thing


“Many people fail in life, not for the lack of ability or brains or even courage but simply because they have never organized their energies around a goal.” – Elbert Hubbard


Exley’s exploits were well known and valued. One couple wanted us to leave him in Maine with them for a week or two so he could clear their backyard of squirrels. My neighbour borrowed Exley one time when a bat came into his house. I must admit, I gushed some pride as I saw my neighbour’s silhouette move across his lace-curtained window, complete with his baseball bat, tennis racket, and Exley’s stubby tail trailing across the large window’s expanse. When Exley came home, he acted like an excited little kid.

Exley was never so proud as when he had flushed game or caught an intruder. His head held high, his gait bouncy, his chest held out, his little tail wagging. A little pride in life goes a long way, especially after being acknowledge.


Secrets to remember:

Sometimes the way to make yourself valuable to others is by volunteering or participating in community, church, or other civic activism. The involvement will make you a happier person, and more people will want to be around you.

Pet dogs steal socks and laundry...
Show dogs show natural retrieving ability.
13.   EVENTS

We really recommend this! And it’s so easy to do!


 South African Mass Animal Sterilization Trust (SAMAST) is raising funds to sterilize pets in  
 disadvantaged areas.
 Their target is to raise R500 000 for 2500 Sterilizations. (http://www.samast.co.za)


     SMS "PETS" TO 38081 to donate R10 to this worthy cause!


You could WIN a River Adventure for a family of four worth R10 000 from Felix Unite River Adventures or a Pioneer Home Theatre System valued at R8000! Repeat Sms’s improve your chances!


Dr. Dion Woodborne is a veterinarian who has seen first hand the suffering of unwanted puppies and kittens. In order to raise money for SAMAST, Dion will be swimming 25km journey through icy, shark-infested waters starts at Melkbosstrand, going around Robben Island, and ending at Three Anchor Bay.


You can also visit the SAMAST website and pledge per km of Dion’s swim.


e. Free Me Urban Jungle Jol


The proceeds of this prestigious event will go towards the FreeMe Property Fund, the purpose of which is to allow the organisation to purchase its own property to house the offices and the rehabilitation centre.


DATE: Friday 13 April 2007                                       PLACE: The Castle Kyalami

TIME: 7:30pm for 8:00pm                                     DRESS: Urban Chic


Tickets priced at R500.00 per person, or R5000.00 per table of 10.  Tickets include a three-course dinner, dancing and entertainment by Patrick Mynhardt & Emmanuel Castis.

Please confirm your acceptance of this invitation by contacting us:


RSVP: Dominique Delaney                                                EMAIL: anevent@wbs.co.za

TEL: 011 314 4404                                                    FAX: 011 314 1673

CELL: 084 579 0643

Pet dogs find and chew up their owners shoes...
Show dogs are practicing scent articles.

Missing: Munch the Maltese

Wendy Lindenburg from no 6 Wilfred Ave,Alan Manor had her RED Mazda 323 Reg. HXT 241 GP stolen outside her house on 14 Feb. TWO of her dogs were in the car.  We managed to find the ONE 16-year-old staffie up the road dumped but NOT the 10-Year-Old Maltese male. Please be on the look out for the maltese, his name in MUNCH and would have hidden himself away in fear.  A REWARD is being offered

WENDY can be contacted on 082 716 2317


Boxer Pup Looking for a home:

10 Month old sterilised boxer that is looking for a family (other dogs and kids). He has a lovely nature-  
       quite excitable (boxer!)  but as sweet as they come.

Please contact Lauren (Edenvale area) on 082 315 9834  if you can give him a home.


Marmaduke: Boerbul, 5 yr old female

She was the baby in the family for 4 years and then a very noisy, demanding human baby arrived. Marmaduke is a lovely gentle dog and would do very well in a home where there are NO children. If any of you know of such a place or you want any more information on please call Niki on 082 451 0433


Old English sheepdog

Am urgently looking for an Old English Sheepdog puppy.  There is only one registered breeder in South

Africa, and she doesn’t have any.  I am not too worried if the dog doesn’t have papers as long as its good stock. If you can assist, please email: Sue Green: susan.green@absamail.co.za


Kitten – 3 months

Ant – a white/ginger kitten (not a baby – vet says she’s 3 months old).  I found her at The Ant – hence the name.  I’ve had her vaccinated and will have her spayed.


She is very spunky (a true redhead) and is in good condition considering she’s been a street cat.  I would keep her except it’s against body corporate rules in my complex. Contact: Greig on 083 254 5189


German Shepherd X, about 1 yr old female

A gorgeous, adolescent female about a year old, spayed, and possibly a German Shepherd X, appeared during a community dog show. When everybody went home, it was discovered that she had no owner. During the dog show she presented herself in the ring amongst all the owners and their dogs, and also attached herself to some of the spectators, giving everybody a warm welcome and hello! She is a very special little girl, looking for a special home of her own …If you, or someone you know can, kindly contact Dr. Woodberry on 011-763-1638


Two 7 year old Rotties who are desperate for new homes

The owner had to relocate to a tiny townhouse with a minute garden and has no prospect of affording a place with sufficient space for her beloved dogs. They are currently being homed at Paws for Thought Kennels. The ideal is that they go to the same home as they have been together since birth and pine for each other if separated. Their inoculations are up to date and we would give their kennels, blankets and toys to anyone who is kind enough to give them a loving home. Please help if you can.

Janice Hawkridge: Tel: 011 467 0015 Cell: 082 414 6172 email: janice@tlr.co.za

© 2006 TTouch - eugenie@ttouch.co.za.   All Rights Reserved.